The right time to get a brake job
Q. My friend has a 2006 Honda Civic, which required new brakes at 17,000 miles. Now the car has 35,000 miles on it. The dealer said she needs another brake job.
I would have raised a red flag at 17,000 miles, as I assume that, under normal driving conditions in San Diego, the brand-new factory front brakes should last at least 40,000 miles. I told her to call the shop and ask how long the front brakes should have lasted under normal conditions. I think she was taken for a ride.
A. This is one of the more common questions around here. So far it looks as if two mechanics have inspected this car and found no issue with the brakes except wornout pads.
Bottom line: Brake pads do not last as long as they used to, for a number of reasons. Better aerodynamics means that cars don't slow down as much when you lift your foot off the gas. Same for low-rolling-resistance tires, low-tension rings, roller-camshaft followers and rocker pivots. Taller gear ratios do not give as much compression braking, either. Add to all this today's asbestos-free brake pads, that don't squeal or make wheel-discoloring dust, and you've got short brake-pad life. Besides, some drivers, especially ones who operate cars in urban areas, simply rely on the brakes more.
I suggest that your friend upgrade to a premium material for the pads - but make sure that she knows to expect more brake noise and more pad dust on the front wheels in the bargain.
Q. I have a 1993 Ford Aerostar with the 4.0-liter engine. I ran into a problem a few years back when I was coming home from Las Vegas and my van overheated. I had to stop several times when I came upon an incline to let the van cool down.
I replaced the radiator and clutch fan with new parts. I swapped out the thermostat with a 160-degree thermostat, since this is the coolest one and it will take the van longer to overheat when I come to an incline of two or three miles or more. Still, when I put the A/C on, it doesn't take but a few blocks for the van to overheat.
Do you have any ideas? This is truly a winter car and doesn't overheat on inclines in the winter.
A. Start by making sure that all of the radiator-shroud pieces and little fussy air deflectors near the radiator are in place. That includes all of the pieces of the grille and any air dam. This will make all of the air flow through the radiator like it is supposed to. Next, try a new water pump. If yours is severely corroded, some of the impeller blade might be worn away, compromising the water flow.
Q. "20/20" on ABC once ran a special exposing several myths on ways to increase automobile gas mileage. One segment covered myths about gas and gas additives. The conclusion was that the grade recommended by the manufacturer should be used. They went on to say that all regular grades are the same, all midgrades are the same and all high grades are the same. In other words each grade, no matter what label -
A couple of years ago I read about "Top Tier Gasoline" at www.toptiergas.com and have been using it when available. Have I been misled about the advantages of "Top Tier Gasoline"?
A. I was interviewed, for more than an hour, by "20/20" for that story a few days before it ran. The topic of gasoline came up, and I specifically said that some brands of premium gas were labeled "Top Tier" and had increased amounts of injector-cleaning additives, and some people would benefit by using them periodically, which I have said in my column in the past.
"20/20," however, cut my segment from the story at the last minute, with no explanation.
Mike Allen is a senior editor for Popular Mechanics magazine. Questions should be sent via e-mail to driveit@nytimes.com.
