Cut off top:

And stems (shown in bottom two):

Steam 35 minutes (for large like these):

Pull out and discard leaves over the choke (top left corner artichoke):

Turn over, pull leaves away and scrape off the edible part with your teeth:

After all the leaves are gone, scrape off the hairy chokes with a spoon, careful not to gouge into the heart:

Trim the dark (bitter stem) portion off the bottom of the heart and chow down on the best part, saved for last (note the scraped off choke in the foreground):