Chinese hotpot dining in Quincy

Little Q Hotpot Restaurant in Quincy. (File photo)

Quincy is fast turning into a little Asia, with Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Vietnamese immigrants moving in and setting up shop. Hancock Street, the main drag, has yet another new Asian culinary attraction -- Little Q Hotpot Restaurant, the centerpiece for what will soon become a food court located in the Quincy Fair building, where Pier One imports used to reside. Though the other establishments will be fast-food stands, Little Q is a large, sit-down restaurant where you can eat at tables, at a communal counter (like you do at a hibachi restaurant), or at a diner-type counter.

The hotpot restaurant is part of a huge, popular chain in China, which has hundreds of stores, and this Little Q is the first franchise in the United States. Since ancient times, the hotpot has been a way for those who lived in China's colder climes to keep warm. "We needed cold weather," explains co-owner Don Xu. "Boston has lots of cold weather."

The other draw was the area's Asian population, but you don't have to be Asian to enjoy Little Q -- though you may find yourself the only non-Asian in the place, as we were on a recent cold night. That's always a good sign, though, since authenticity is everything with ethnic eating.

The hotpot dates back to the nomadic Mongolians, who would gather around a fire at night and prepare a simple meal in a bubbling cauldron, breaking off chunks of meat and cooking them in a stew. Things have progressed somewhat since then; at Little Q, the waitress brings you a menu divided into different categories, such as ("vegetables," "meat," "seafood," "rice and noodles," and the like; you check off which ones you want, and indicate if you want the mild stew or the spicy stew in which to cook your choices.

We ordered half and half. Each table has an induction cooktop, and the waitress brings a stainless steel bowl of stock, divided down the middle, and sets it in its holder. The spicy side contains chilis, star anise, and bay leaves, plus many more unidentifiable ingredients. The mild side has large pieces of fresh ginger and whole scallions.

A word of warning: the spicy side is ultra-hot, and a fellow diner complained of having a "lip-ectomy" after cooking some beef in the broth. You'll need lots of water, and napkins. Spilling and splattering, at least for us gringos, occurred regularly.

But that's part of the fun of the hotpot, which is meant to be a communal, festive affair. Don Xu and his business partner, Ming Zhu, gave us a paper that explained the history of the cuisine. "Families and groups of friends sit around a table and eat from a steaming pot in the middle, cooking and drinking and chatting," it read. "Appeals to our primitive love of fire, food, and friendship... It is cozy, yet informal. It's not a banquet, yet it can take as much time as one."

We ordered from just about every category, and plates of raw meat, seafood, vegetables, and noodles were set down before us, along with small bowls. Using ladles that hang over the edge of the induction bowls, we "cooked" our food ourselves, then fished it out with our chopsticks after a minute or two. We were warned not to cook anything too long, or it would become tough and lose its flavor. The small bowls, which look almost like tea cups, are what you eat from.

Lamb is a specialty here, and for good reason -- it's fresh and full of flavor. We loved the lamb meatballs ($3.75 an order). We were told that an order would serve one person, but it's not exactly accurate. As in a regular Chinese restaurant, order several dishes and share. The lamb slices ($3.95) are very thin and take just a minute to cook. The rib eye slices ($4.50) and the pork slices ($3.50) are also good choices. You'll be given four bowls of dipping sauces: spicy, soy-based, chutney relish, and a sweet house sauce.

Most of the vegetables are $2.50 an order. Try the white winter squash, Chinese broccoli, shitake mushrooms, and pumpkin slices, but boil them only lightly. The tofu and bean curd ($2.25-$2.50) are excellent choices, since they readily absorb the flavors of the broth. We found the shrimp balls ($3.50) bland and disappointing.

Take a break from the cooking and enjoy the prepared dishes, such as scallion pancakes ($2.50), which are crisp, hot, and, surprisingly, not greasy. Lamb fried rice ($5.50) is a house specialty and has a wonderful kick to it, thanks to red chilis. The Little Q noodles ($5.50) are thick and studded with lamb, which seems to be a favored staple here.

The place has the feel of a cafeteria, with plain walls and a noisy dining room. You'll want to come here with a group of friends, not for a romantic evening. The meal is like a group treasure hunt, trying to figure out what's what, then sitting back and savoring the taste.