Mexican more than ever in Cambridge

About 18 months ago, Carlos Mendez was laid off from his job as a software engineer for a Boston firm, but his timing was just right.

Mendez, who had cooked at family-style and Mexican restaurants in Wisconsin and Chicago, had always wanted his own place where he could delight Americans with the dishes he loved growing up south of Mexico City.

A year after Mendez's layoff, Joseph Capuzzo, longtime owner of Jose's Mexican Restaurant, the odd-looking but beloved North Cambridge restaurant with free parking, decided to sell.

Mendez and his uncle, Tello Olascuaga, swooped in and made the purchase on Jan. 1. The men had plenty of ideas and wasted no time in making improvements to the funky decor and menu that tended to offer more expected fare, such as tacos and enchiladas.

Jose's is now a family collaboration. Mendez and Olascuaga are the primary chefs. Many of the new and more unusual dishes on the menu, such as a roasted sauce made with a long red pepper called a huajillo, are adapted from dishes that Mendez's mother, Reyna, cooks at home back in Mexico. Deborah, Mendez's wife, is a part-time hostess until a permanent replacement is found. And in one of the most delicious additions to Jose's repertoire, Deborah's sister, Susannah Abbott, bakes luscious deserts such as carrot cake and a traditional Mexican celebration cake called ``tres leches,'' which is made with three types of milk.

Deborah said some improvements were made right away: Cooking the beans and rice fresh daily; rolling the tortillas for flautas around the filling and then deep-frying them rather than serving them flat; and stocking high-quality tequilas for shots and Jose's potent margaritas.

The Mendezes painted the inside red and gold and plan to paint the outside and install flower boxes and benches. At the same time, Deborah Mendez said they've assured neighbors, who don't want to see Jose's to turn ``yuppie'' or ``fancy,'' that they'll retain its unpretentious charm, with its mismatched spoons, worn wooden tables, and benches with vinyl cushions.

The chefs will launch a new menu in a couple of weeks, and many of the more interesting dishes that go beyond burritos and beans, which are now specials, will become permanent. They include carne asada, steak marinated in beer and lime and grilled; pozole verde, a stew made with chicken or pork that comes with lime, cilantro, onions, and other toppings; and beer-batter-fried catfish on Fridays.

On two recent evenings these new dishes were not available, but plenty of other tasty and satisfying options were. One Friday night, a waitress sat four of us in the upstairs dining area and brought a basket of chips and salsa spiked with fresh cilantro. We started with guacamole topped with shredded cheese and diced tomatoes ($5.95), which was smooth and mild, and super nachos loaded with refried beans and sour cream ($7.95).

We found the mini Mexican pizza with sauteed onions and peppers ($3.25) a bit bland, but one of us was reminded nostalgically of an English muffin pizza. The undisputed hit from the appetizer menu came on a second visit: sinfully rich homemade poppers ($4.95). The six jalapeno peppers were stuffed with cheese, rolled in mashed tortilla chips and deep-fried. They were pleasantly spicy and came with sour cream on the side.

The entrees tended to be mild, although customers can request a spicier version, and were amply loaded with meat or shrimp. The super beef burrito ($9.95) was overflowing with cubed skirt steak. Shrimp is unappetizing and rubbery when overcooked, but if the two visits to Jose's are a marker, the chefs have perfected the technique with shrimp fajitas ($10.95) and barbecue shrimp ($12.95).

The barbecue shrimp, in particular, was terrific. ``I really recommend this,'' one friend said. Two dozen tender, juicy shrimp came in a red sauce that was sweet and sharp. The chicken enchiladas ($8.95) were also a favorite, the shredded chicken fresh and flavorful.

On a Friday night, the band Walk Don't Run played to a packed room. It turned out to be a stressful night for the overwhelmed wait staff - a kink Deborah Mendez said they will iron out for future crowds by hiring a hostess to organize weekend service.

The portions at Jose's were generous, so be sure to save room for dessert, which is a highlight. Abbott's dense carrot cake ($4) was stuffed with raisins and walnuts, and the cream-cheese frosting was irresistible. So was the pastel de tres leches ($4), a pudding-like white cake made with whole milk, condensed milk, evaporated milk and slathered with whip cream and fresh strawberries.

One warning, though: Jose's famous margaritas are some of the strongest - and largest - we've ever had. So go easy.