Capsule reviews: Cambridge

By Globe Staff, 10/10/2002

Price range is for entrees.

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AJANTA 145 First St. 617-491-0075, www.ajanta.com. This East Cambridge restaurant can satisfy yearnings for regional Indian food, including the especially good South Indian vegetarian specialties. The decor seems left over from another restaurant, but the service is sweet, if a little distracted. Quiet. $10-$16. Reservations. Closed Mon. T-Lechmere.

AMELIA'S TRATTORIA 111 Harvard St. 617-868-7600, ameliastrattoria.com. Amelia's homemade pasta and other Italian dishes and its ambience win out over harried service and some odd menu choices. A hidden neighborhood jewel. Quiet. $11-$26. Reservations. Closed Sun. T-Kendall Square.

ARGANA 1287 Cambridge St. 617-868-1247. Authentic Moroccan food fused into a hipper mold. The room and the presentations are pretty; the bar and the crowd are Cambridge cool. The best dishes are the tangines and the couscous from the old country. $19-$25. Dinner nightly; brunch Sun.; closed Mon. Reservations.

ASMARA 739 Mass. Ave. 617-864-7447, www.asmara.com. One of the area's few Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurants, where the cornerstone of the cuisine is injera, a huge pancake-like flatbread traditionally made from teff (a high-protein grain). You eat with your hands, tearing off pieces of injera to scoop up stew-like entrees, such as shoro, a spiced chickpea mix, or lamb in berbere (pepper) sauce. Quiet. $10-$16. Sidewalk dining. Reservations. T-Central Square.

ASGARD 350 Mass. Ave. 617-577-9100, www.classicirish.com. This pub-cum-restaurant serves American food "with an Irish twist," and those twists are the strengths, such as the Kerryman shepherd's pie, a comfort combo of gravied ground beef, mashed potatoes, and cheddar cheese. "Signature" pasta dishes are less impressive. But the atmosphere is both airy from the high ceilings and pubby from the 58-foot Viking-themed bar, and the service is ultra-friendly. $7-$15. Reservations for 8 or more. Weekend brunch. Outdoor dinng. Smoking area. Validated parking. T-Central Square.

ASPASIA 377 Walden St. 617-864-4745,www.aspasiarestaurant.com In a tiny place with rather precious prices, chef Christos Tsardounis's food verges on the voluptuous, attracting a following in this upscale neighborhood. Still, he cooks seasonally and very well, and his wife graciously greets visitors, making for an appealing dining experience. $20-$25. Reservations. Closed Sun. T-Harvard Square.

ATASCA 50 Hampshire St. 617-621-6991; also at 279 Broadway, dinner only, 617-354-4355, www.atasca.com Good, flavorful Portuguese food. Specialties are meats and seafood, such as the paella-like arroz de marisco, laden with all kinds of shellfish. If you've brought a group, order some petiscos, tapas-like small plates, and share. $13-$21. Reservations for 6 or more. Closed Mon. T-Kendall Square.

AVENUE CAFE 319 Western Ave. 617-547-2759. Chef-owner Butch Harris (who cooked at the late Jimy Mac's and most recently ran a well-loved food truck near MIT) is back, this time with a low-key, down-home barbecue joint. Among his lip-smacking Southern-style dishes are barbecued pulled pork, spicy red beans and rice, and tangy collard greens. The rich, creamy-tasting pecan pie is pretty decadent, too. $3-$14. Weekend brunch. No dinner Sun. Cash only. T-Central Square.

B-SIDE LOUNGE 92 Hampshire St. 617-354-0766. The young and the very hip congregate here in '40s-style glamour. But diners throng to eat as well as imbibe pink drinks. The raucous noise level and the late hours mean the place rocks for the young professional set. Seared scallops, oven roasted turkey sandwich, grilled steak tip sandwich. You won't forget the decor. $15-$20. Reservations. Smoking at bar. T-Kendall or Central.

BARAKA CAFE 80 Pearl St. 617-868-3951. This tiny storefront features creative North African food. What you see on the menu is not always exactly what you'll get ("house crackers," "Algerian crepe" and "Berber bread" were all the same grilled flat bread). But the food is delicious and intriguing, especially the hot and cold meze, small dishes such as karentika, a chickpea custard, and merguez (spicy lamb and beef sausages). $9-$16. Cash only. Closed Mon. No liquor. Reservations. T-Central Square.

BERTUCCI'S 21 Brattle St. 617-864-4748, www.bertuccis.com Pizza plus is the motto in myriad places. Yes, they're all the same, and, no, there's not much creativity in the selections. Yet Bertucci's is reliable; the staff is generally nice to children and teens, and there are lots of them. $10-$15. Reservations on weekdays. (Other locations throughout Greater Boston).

BLUE FIN Porter Exchange Building, 1815 Massachusetts Ave. 617-497-8022. Fresh, flavorful, and moderately priced sushi is the lure at this informal Japanese restaurant that manages to be both bustling and peaceful. Other traditional fare, from noodles, teriyaki, and katsu (cutlets) to an unusual fried rice mixed with shrimp and cod roe, rounds out the menu. Moderately noisy. $9-$16. No reservations weekends. Open daily. Validated parking. T-Porter Square.

BLUE ROOM, THE 1 Kendall Square. 617-494-9034. Foodies flock to this restaurant, where Steve Johnson's wood-grilling is the specialty. Welcoming staff and loads of regulars. Kendall moviegoers eat and run on weekends before the films start, then return later for dessert. Good wine list, interesting menu touching on many cuisines, including Asian and Spanish. $18-$24. Sun. Brunch buffet. Reservations required. Validated parking. T-Kendall Square.

CAFE CHINA 1245 Cambridge St. 617-868-4300, www.cafechina.com. East met West here in 1986, when Swiss-native Charles Kocher and his Chinese-born wife, Carol, decided to open a business that fused their cultures. The result is a charming restaurant that feels like a comfortable cafe and serves creative renditions of traditional Asian dishes. Quiet. $9-$15. Reservations. Closed Mon.

CAMBRIDGE, 1.27 Church St. 617-576-1111. You can opt for "Pizza" or "Not Pizza" at this sociable Harvard Square pub where the vibe hovers between industrial and snug. The grilled pizzas have cracker-thin crusts and inventive toppings like a combo of portobellos, roasted onions, and asiago cheese, while the simpler "not pizzas" include bruschetta and several salads. Moderately noisy. $11-$14. Open nightly until 1 a.m. T-Harvard Square.

CASABLANCA 40 Brattle St. 617-876-0999. A fixture in Harvard Square, Casablanca melds a collegiate laid-back style with well-made food. Former chef Ana Sortun set it on a high Mediterranean culinary path before moving on to her own place; now Ruth-Ann Adams keeps the tradition going. Moderately noisy. $17-$21. Reservations. Smoking in bar. Sun. brunch. Validated parking at Charles Hotel garage. T-Harvard Square.

CENTRAL KITCHEN 567 Mass. Ave. 617-491-5599. Simple but stylish food with a Mediterranean flair. Near the windows, you have Central Square's edgy scene as a backdrop. Chef-owner Gary Strack has a streamlined menu with plenty of nibbles and a few simple entrees. $16-$24. Reservations. T-Central.

CENTRO 720 Mass. Ave. 617-868-2405, www.centrocambridge.com. Chef Dave Robinson has taken over the stove from chef/co-owner Rene Michelena, but he's continuing the same tradition of finely crafted but simple Italian food. While the menu travels to different Italian regions, this tiny Central Square trattoria remains a stylishly comfortable home away from home. Moderately noisy. $12-$19. Reservations. Dinner only. T-Central Square.

CHEZ HENRI 1 Shepard St. 617-354-8980. In this wine-hued storefront between Harvard and Porter squares, chef Paul O'Connell livens traditional French bistro cooking with Latin flavors. His kitchen turns out cassoulet and steak frites, but you might also find chile-glazed venison or mahi-mahi paired with a crispy black bean cake. The patrons range from tweedy to trendy. A place for quiet dining. $20-$28. Reservations for 6 or more. Smoking at bar. T-Harvard.

CHRISTOPHER'S 1920 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge. 617-876-9180. This wood-paneled restaurant-bar dares to serve the unthinkable - healthy pub grub. From free-range chicken wings to all-natural burgers on multigrain buns (with canola-oil-fried fries), the fare is fresh, free of preservatives, and so dependably yummy you'll never notice it's good for you. Choices run from Tex-Mex and Asian to pasta and vegetarian. Try the sizzling fajitas and top-notch margaritas. $5.50-$18. Reservations for 6 or more. Fireplace. T-Porter Square.

CRAIGIE ST. BISTRO 5 Craigie Circle. 617-497-5511, www.craigiestreetbistrot.com. Chef Tony Maws has taken over the space occupied by Butterfish to create a real French bistro. His bistro fare is beautifully done, filling, and modern, in a room that will transport you to Paris. The neighborhood menu is a steal: appetizer, entree, and dessert for $29. $17-$25. Reservations. Closed Mon. T-Harvard Square.

CUCHI CUCHI 79 Main St. 617-864-2929, www.cuchicuchi.com. As if you couldn't tell by the name, this sassy place brims with attitude. Co-owned by Tamara Bourso of Dali in Somerville, Cuchi Cuchi specializes in Spanish but also delves into Greek, French, Asian, and even tropical dishes, all amid the glow of an interior that sparkles like a kitschy piece of costume jewelry. It can get noisy here. $7-15. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon.-Wed. Dinner nightly until 11:30. T-Kendall Square.

DAEDALUS 45 Mount Auburn St. 617-349-0071. A welcoming ambience distinguishes this Harvard Square place owned by two Irish brothers. Chefs Adam Schorr and Ariel Sandoval have taken over, and patrons will be coming back for more than just drinks. A wide-ranging menu covers everything from fish dishes to pasta to pizzas, but falls short of Daedalus's other virtues. $9-$18. Reservations. Sun. brunch. T-Harvard Square.

EAST COAST GRILL & RAW BAR 1271 Cambridge St. 617-491-6568. www.eastcoastgrill.net. Chris Schlesinger has been doing the casual neighborhood thing for years in this Inman Square favorite. Expanded several years ago past barbecue and Southern favorites, East Coast now serves great raw shellfish and lots of native fish dishes. Special events such as Hell Nights for hot spice addicts draw a loyal and lively crowd. $16-$24. Smoking in bar. Reservations Sun.-Thurs. only. Sun. brunch. T-Central Square.

EMMA'S 40 Hampshire St. (corner of Portland), Kendall Square, Cambridge. 617-864-8534. Ever since Wendy Saver and David Rockwood bought the old Emma's in 1995 from Emma Matschichelian, they've had a huge following. Lease problems after Emma died sent them looking for another location and they landed up in Kendall Square. Their beautiful thin-crusted pizzas, fine salads, and homemade dressings are always just right. The place is crowded, but worth the wait. Ideal if you go early before the movie or take out and eat at home. $8-$20. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner only Sat.; closed Sun.-Mon. T-Kendall Square.

THE ENORMOUS ROOM 567 Mass. Ave., Central Square. 617-491-5550. Past a door with a red elephant sign and up a long flight of stairs, you will find an enormous, and enormously hip, place to hang. Perch on a pillowed platform or stretch out on a low couch and relax. The menu, a list of enticements called many little tastes on an enormous plate, might feature Moroccan brined chicken, garlic eggplant, pork spare ribs, and two dozen other items created according to the cook's whim. Live music or DJs. $5-$14. Cash only. No reservations. Smoking area. Dinner nightly until 11. T-Central Square.

FIRE + ICE 50 Church St., Harvard Square, Cambridge. 617-547-9007. Also 205 Berkeley St., Boston. 617-482-3473, www.fire+ice.com. The gimmick here is that you pick out the ingredients - veggies, meats, and sauce - and take them to cooks who'll grill them while you watch. Lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch. Lunch $8 (all you can eat $11); dinner (all you can eat) $16. Open daily; Sun. brunch. T-Harvard Square (Cambridge). T-Arlington (Back Bay).

FULL MOON 344 Huron Ave. 617-354-6699. Kids' food and something for the parents. There's a play space in the back for the tots (if you don't bring one, you better bring your patience), and some fine American fare for the grown-ups. Moderately noisy (of course). Second location opens this month 138 Mass. Ave., Arlington. $14-$19. Reservations Mon.-Tues. for 8 or more. Weekend brunch. T-Harvard Square.

FUSION EXPRESS 195 Elm St. (Davis Square), Somerville. 617-623-3354. This lovely little neighborhood restaurant features white linen on tables and terrific eating from Thailand, Japan, and Korea. There's a lot to savor here - like the tempura duck, the teriyaki salmon, and chicken in garlic-wasabi sauce. Just don't expect too much fusion. A small star in the constellation of area cheap Asian eateries. $8-$15. Reservations. T-Davis Square.

THE GOOD LIFE 720 Mass. Ave.Central Square. 617-868-8800; also 28 Kingston St., Boston. 617-451-2622, www.the-goodlife-us.com. The lights are dim, the atmosphere jazzy (live on weekends), and the food jazzed-up basics plus creative cocktails. Good ultra-thin crusted pizza and sandwiches. A place to hang out after work and relax, man. $6-$9. Reservations for 6 and over. Smoking in bar. T-Central Square (Cambridge) or T-Downtown Crossing (Boston).

GRAFTON STREET PUB & GRILLE 1230 Massachusetts Ave. (1 Bow St.) 617-497-0400. In its new, more spacious digs, fried pub grub is in the minority on a menu that embodies the overworked word eclectic, with Italian, French, and even North African options. The results are mixed, but the beer is cold. $8-$20. Reservations except Thurs.-Sat. T-Harvard.

GREEK CORNER RESTAURANT 2366 Mass. Ave. 617-661-5655. The Boretos brothers carefully prepare classics like char-grilled kebabs, tender fried calamari, and lemon-drenched stuffed grape leaves at this storefront eatery. Vegetarians have choices here; nearly half the menu is meatless. Moderately noisy. $8-$13. T-Davis or T-Porter square.

GREEN STREET GRILL 280 Green St. Not 617-876-1655. Chef Mark Romano (formerly of The Blue Room and 608) has taken over the kitchen at this Caribbean-inspired fixture in Central Square. He's kept some island influences, in such dishes as West Indian-spiced chicken, but he's also added less fiery fare, including pork chops with black-eyed peas. After last year's rehab, the room is more neighborhood bistro than don't-bring-your-mother. Live music. $14-$18. Reservations. Smoking in bar. Live music. Dinner only. T-Central Square.

GRENDEL'S DEN 89 Winthrop St. 617-491-1160. This Cambridge institution is open again. It's a fine place to meet friends and a bargain during 5-7:30 happy hours, when most everything on the menu is $3 (if you order a drink). The emphasis is comfort food -try the French bread pizza. What keeps us coming back is the warm pub atmosphere. It's like the old Harvard Square. $6-$10. Validated parking. T-Harvard.

HARVEST 44 Brattle St. 617-868-2255, www.the-harvest.com. The remodeled Harvest still draws a Harvard and Cantabrigian crowd to a plusher, more upscale place. After a revolving door of chefs, Eric Brennan, previously at The Federalist and Four Seasons, is settling in. His dishes, such as sage-roasted pheasant with oyster, leek and shiitake stuffing, are sophisticated and filling. Noise level moderate. $20-$30. Reservations. Smoking in bar. Valet parking. T-Harvard.

HELMAND 143 First St. 617-492-4646. This place is a delight for the eyes as well as the palate. Warm colors wash the walls; a crackling fire burns in winter; waiters push palettes of naan into a wall oven in the dining room. And the Afghani food is very appealing: skewers of lamb and chicken; pumpkin topped with a meat sauce and yogurt, and stews of meat and lentils. $11-$18. Reservations. T-Lechmere or Kendall.

HENRIETTA'S TABLE The Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St. 617-661-5005, www.charleshotel.com. American fare, served simply in a farmhouse setting. The idea here is to eat in season (the entrance looks like a farmers' market), and when you order the plainest selections, you'll do well. This restaurant is popular for families - there are often college kids and their grandparents eating together. If the service were more polished, the experience would be better. $14-$17. Reservations. Weekend brunch. T-Harvard Square. Validated and valet parking.

HI-RISE BREAD CO. 208 Concord Ave. (near Huron Avenue). 617-876-8766; also 56 Brattle St., Harvard Square. 617-492-3003. Rene Becker's neighborhood hangouts offer beautiful crusty breads, splendid all-American pastries, sandwiches, roast chickens, mesclun salads. These are great spots to sit and watch Cantabridgians with well-known names come and go. Bring your trust fund. $7-$10. Open daily until 8 p.m.; 3 p.m. Sun. T-Harvard Square.

IL BUONGUSTAIO 370 Huron Ave. 617-491-3133. Pizzas here are great and a lot less precious than at Real Pizza across the street. Calzones are huge and the place is friendly. Dinner $7-$11, lunch $5-$9. Cash and personal checks only. Free parking.

JASPER WHITE'S SUMMER SHACK 149 Alewife Brook Parkway. 617-520-9500, www.summershackrestraunt.com. Once you get past the line at the door and the deafening noise, Jasper White's seafood is wonderful, though the prices do not fall into the "shack" category. The oyster selection is outstanding and the blackboard specials of grilled fish are worth any price. $12-$20. Smoking in lounge. Priority seating for 8 or more. T-Alewife.

JOHNNY'S LUNCHONETTE 30 Langley Road, Newton Centre. 617-527-3223. Also 1105 Mass. Ave., Cambridge. 617-495-0055. An old-fashioned soda fountain and juke box sets the tone for this wildly popular place; where weekend breakfast is a tradition with everyone (lines form early); the hamburgers are terrific, and you can bring the kids and your parents and everyone will be happy. Owners John Furst and Neal Solomon have managed to strike a balance between hip and comfortable. $7-$11. Mon.-Sat. 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sun. 8 a.m.-9 p.m. T-Newton Centre (Newton); T-Harvard or Central squares (Cambridge).

LA GROCERIA RISTORANTE ITALIANO 853 Main St. 617-876-4162, www.lagroceria.com. La Groceria has been a Cambridge fixture for three decades, and the fare, while inconsistent, is full of Italian standbys. $10-$18. Reservations for 6 or more. Lunch weekdays. Smoking area. T-Central Square.

MAGNOLIA'S SOUTHERN CUISINE 1193 Cambridge St. 617-576-1971, www.magnoliascuisine.com. Fried green tomatoes, grits, jambalaya - these Southern specialties were pretty rare in these parts before John Silberman opened his first Cambridge restaurant, which became Magnolia's in 1993. Chef-owner Silberman is still behind the stove at this laid-back storefront in Inman Square, and the torch he holds for Cajun food continues to burn brightly. $12-$22. Reservations. Closed Sun.-Mon.

MAMA GAIA'S 401 Mass. Ave., Central Square. 617-441-3999. For $3.75, you can fill up on a crispy quesadilla stuffed with grilled vegetables, squash, and corn in a funky, earthy-crunchy cafe reminiscent of the '70s. And for just 50 cents more, opt for the Vegetarian Volcano, with tofu, white cheddar, black beans, and sour cream - a sort of health-conscious burrito. That's just the start of the healthy, earth-loving choices at Mama's house. She doesn't pour anything stronger than milk and juice, though. Live music. $3-$6. Sun. brunch. T-Central Square.

METRO 1815 Mass. Ave., Porter Square. 617-354-3727. Chef Tony Bettencourt has taken over this classic brasserie, adding a bistro burger to the offerings of steak frites and cheese souffle. $11-$26. Reservations. Smoking area. T-Porter Square.

MIRACLE OF SCIENCE 321 Mass. Ave. 617-868-2866. The exposed brick and particle board walls give this pub between Central Square and MIT a technical-chic feel. It may be more bar than grill, but you can chow down on burgers, skewers, and soups, and the rich turkey chipotle chili has ardent fans. $4-$10. Smoking. T-Central Square.

THE MIDDLE EAST 472 Mass. Ave. 617-492-9181, www.mideastclub.com. Boston's hippest night spot is also host to a vast menu of food from couscous and falafel to burgers and fries. The crowd is diverse, making people-watching almost as fun as dipping pita into humous. Portions are large, though, so be prepared to share. $8-$13. Reservations for 6 or more. T-Central Square.

MIDWEST GRILL 1124 Cambridge St. 617-354-7536, www.midwestgrill.com. Delicious grilled meats on three-foot skewers with a Brazilian flair for celebration. It can get noisy. $16-$20. Reservations for 8 or more. Smoking. T-Lechmere.

MR. & MRS. BARTLEY'S BURGER COTTAGE 1246 Mass. Ave. 617-354-6559, www.mrbartleys.com. One of the most famed burger joints in the area, Bartley's serves political commentary and good humor along with its fries and frappes. Their burgers are a mouthful and well worth it, and while the seating is cramped at times and the dining room noisy, it's almost like eating a great dinner at home with a huge, boisterous family. Not especially quiet. $4-$12. Cash only. No reservations. Closed Sun. T-Harvard Square.

MUQUECA 1093 Cambridge St. 617-354-3296. The affable owners share their love for Brazilian food at this Inman Square storefront. They'll steer you to the signature moqueca, a hearty seafood stew thickened with a stick-to-your-ribs yucca-flour porridge, but another winner is the smoky feijoada, with black beans, sausage, and assorted meats. Don't expect atmosphere, though, unless you count Brazilian soap operas on TV. $6-$13. Lunch buffet $4/pound. Reservations for 10 or more. Closed Mon.; closes 5 p.m. Sun.

O CANTINHO 1128 Cambridge St. 617-354-3443, www.atasca.com. A taste of Portugal in Inman Square, this cozy cafe owned by Atasca's Joseph and Maria Cerqueira serves coffees, pastries, soups, and light meals. Bacalhau fans should opt for the flavorful salt cod sandwich with piquant red pepper mayonnaise. Save room for a postprandial queijada - a cross between a flan and a rich vanilla cupcake. $5-$9. Cash only. Closed Sun. No reservations.

OLE MEXICAN GRILLE 11 Springfield St., Cambridge. 617-492-4495; also 203A Broadway, Arlington. 781-643-2299, www.olegrille.com. There's a light, lively spirit to the food and feeling of Ole. While the food may not be cutting edge, it's fresh and well-presented. The Cambridge restaurant is large; the Arlington branch has slightly lower prices. $14-$21. Reservations. Closed Sun. in Arlington; Mon. in Cambridge.

OLEANA 134 Hampshire St. 617-661-0505. Chef Ana Sortun's fascination with the undiscovered parts of the Mediterranean comes to glorious flower in her new restaurant, the former location of Daddy-o's. Turkish, Moroccan, and Greek flavors come to life in this comfortably casual spot. Moderately noisy. $14-$24. Reservations. T-Kendall Square.

PALENQUE 300 Beacon St., Porter Square. 617-491-1004. The colorful decor and thoughtful service at this 25-seat hole-in-the-wall may compensate for a debatable menu. Authentic Mexican food enthusiasts tout the mole and tomatillo sauces, but the standards like guacamole, burritos, and flavorful refried beans are more likely to satisfy others. $6-$13. No alchohol.

PICANTE MEXICAN GRILL 735 Massachusetts Ave. 617-576-6394, Also 217 Elm St., Somerville, 617-628-6394, www.picantemex.com. It's casual (you order at the counter), but you get very fresh Mexican food here. The salsa bar has several varieties of mild to very hot sauces to pair with chicken, meat, or veggie enchiladas, tacos, burritos, and the like. Wash it down with refreshing limeade. Noisy when crowded. $3-$9. No reservations. T-Davis Square.

PUNJABI DHABA 225 Hampshire St. 617-547-8272. The line at the counter snakes out the front door while Indian pop music blares at this Inman Square hole-in-the-wall, so don't come for peace and quiet - just for solidly prepared, cheap Indian fare. Recent favorites: pakori chaat (spicy yogurt and tomato salad, studded with chunks of pakora fritters), anda burji (onion omelet), vegetable biryani (fried rice), and succulent, peppery tandoori chicken. $3-$11. No reservations.

RANGZEN TIBETAN RESTAURANT 24 Pearl St., Central Square, Cambridge. 617-354-8881. Tibetan food has qualities that French Provencal cooking does, too. Yet, as expected, some dishes seem Chinese, others Thai, yet others Indian. This unusual 37-seat restaurant (the name means "freedom") is quiet and calming. The food is fresh and well-made, and you'll find yourself beginning to unwind during dinner. Try the traditional tingmo (Tibetan steamed buns) the first time, but be sure to order their beautiful basmati rice, too. $11-$13. Closed Sun. T-Central Square.

REAL PIZZA 359 Huron Ave. 617-497-4497. Wonderful pies on homemade dough, a different special each night, as in roast chicken or cod cakes. Only a few tables. This is a sister restaurant to Hi-Rise, around the corner, owned by Rene Becker. New: homemade ice cream. $10-$21. Cash and personal checks only. Closed Sun. T-Harvard Square.

RHYTHM & SPICE 315 Mass. Ave. 617-497-0977, www.rspice.com. Come for the conch fritters, rotis (curry-filled wraps), and jerk chicken, then stay for the reggae at this lively Caribbean bar and grill, where the multiethnic crowd ranges from college students to well-dressed professional folks. Ginger beer or tropical rum cocktails may be the beverages of choice. Quiet. $9-$17. Reservations for six or more. Smoking in bar. Lunch Tues.-Fri.; dinner nightly. T-Central Square.

RIALTO The Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St. 617-661-5050, www.rialto-restaurant.com. Chef Jody Adams, one of the best cooks in Boston, makes Mediterranean food in an elegant and striking setting. The fashionable dining room always boasts a famous face or two (not Hollywood types, but rather the talking heads you see on television advising presidents and such). $20-$36. Reservations. Valet and validated parking. T-Harvard Square.

RIVER GODS 125 River St., Cambridge, 617-576-1881. Once a shot-and-beer joint, this corner place is now an Irishwoman-owned pub with a DJ booth overlooking a roomful of ecclesiastical-looking thrones and glowing Virgin Marys. The menu runs the bar food gamut from steak, Irish sausages, and spaghetti with Bolognese to more elaborate specials such as shrimp and bok choy in coconut sauce. Stay late for the nightly listening fests. Around $12. All major credit cards. T-Central Square.

ROKA 1001 Mass. Ave. 617-661-0344. More than just a great spot for beautifully prepared sushi at reasonable prices, Roka is an elegant restaurant where you can explore the range of Japanese cuisine. The pot-cooked dinners (nabe or the toben yaki appetizer) in which fresh ingredients are simmered at the table in their own juices or light broths are exceptional. $13-$20. Reservations. T-Harvard or Central squares.

ROYAL EAST 782-792 Main St. 617-661-1660. Owner Otto Chang gives everyone the red carpet here; let him or one of his entertaining waiters order for you. Be brave. This is superb Hong Kong-style Cantonese food, with seafood the specialty. Get a whole fish (live from their tanks or on ice) and don't miss the Cantonese-style golden fried chicken, which is cooked, cut up, and reassembled in its natural shape. $9-$13. Reservations. T-Central or Kendall square.

SANDRINE'S 8 Holyoke St. 617-497-5300, www.sandrines.com. Chef Raymond Ost (from the Meridien hotel) and co-owner Gwen Trost have created a warm retreat to the Alsatian region of France in Harvard Square. A good glass of wine and some signature flammekuche, a thin stretch of flame-oven baked crust topped with onions, hickory-smoked bacon and fromage blanc that's cooked to a tasty crisp is a good place to start. Fresh fruit flammekuche is a great place to end. $21-$32. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Validated parking. T-Harvard Square.

SALTS 798 Main St. 617-876-8444. Owners Steve and Lisa Mandy Rosen have made a cozy storefront near MIT. The specialty is Eastern European fare, and though the dishes draw on some traditionally hearty food, the plates here are imaginative. $17-$29. Reservations recommended. Closed Sun.-Mon. T-Central or Kendall squares.

SEOUL FOOD 1759 Mass. Ave. (between Harvard and Porter squares). 617-864-6299. Clara and Yoong Koo Byun began with a convenience store, turned it into a Korean deli, and now a little restaurant with carryout and table service. This is home cooking, Korean style. Clara Byun is eager to tell you what is in her soups and noodle dishes. Her pancakes are very thin and crisp, the spicy pork bulgoki is luscious with caramelized and sticky edges, and the bibim-bap in a stone pot is superb. Quiet. $8-$15. T-Porter Square.

SIDNEY'S GRILLE 20 Sidney St. 617-551-0300. www.sidneysgrille.com. This attractive restaurant inside University Park Hotel near MIT has a bold contemporary design and modern American food. The staff is very welcoming, which makes this a good meeting place for business dinners. Because parking is easy in the lot next door, it's also ideal for a late bite at the bar. Noise level moderate. $13-$28. Reservations. Validated parking. T-Kendall Square.

SPICE 24 Holyoke St. 617-868-9560, www.spicethaicuisine.com. The tables in this Thai spot (run by the owners of Montien in the Theater District) are packed elbow-to-elbow, so eating here can feel like partaking in a group meal. But the dining room, with its wide windows and colorful table settings, is lovely. For a spice-fueled kick, try the larb, redolent with pungent lemongrass, or the drunken noodles. Noise level moderate. $6-$13. Reservations on weekdays. T-Harvard Square.

S&S DELI 1334 Cambridge St. 617-354-0620, www.sandsresturant.com. "A great find since 1919," come here and nosh and natter away at this Inman Square institution. Bagels, omelets, pastries, burgers, pastrami - this is not a place for dieters, but it is the spot to get whatever comfort food you like practically any time of day. And they keep the coffee coming. Noisy when busy. $8-$13. Reservations for big parties.

TANJORE 18 Eliot St. 617-868-1900. Southern Indian dishes are difficult to find so this restaurant with its chic decor is a special delight. Specialties from other regions are also offered as well as North Indian. Noise level moderate. $10-$13. Validated parking. T-Harvard Square.

TEMPLE BAR 1688 Mass. Ave., 617-547-5055. Popular with students and their instructors, this restaurant is no college dive. The Temple Bar looks and feels upscale, even though it's a bit noisy; call it bustling chic. The service can be a bit spotty, but the Irish and Irish-American owners have improved the cuisine over the last few years to the point where you could go just for a good meal. But most folks seem attracted just because it's cool to be there. $13-$20. No reservations weekends. T-Porter or Harvard squares.

TRATTORIA PULCINELLA 147 Huron Ave. 617-491-6336 Lusty Southern Italian food reigns here in a little neighborhood restaurant that's very popular with the locals. Prices are a little steep, but the scents of garlic, plenty of olive oil, and a blithe spirit are infectious. Quiet. $16-$29. Reservations. T-Harvard Square.

VEGGIE PLANET 47 Palmer St. 617-661-1513, www.veggieplanet.net. Veggie Planet is a refreshing, unapologetic throwback to vegetarian restaurants of the early '70s, updated with 21st-century flavors. It's all pizza, on a toothsome whole-wheat crust topped with creations such as curried sweet potatoes, spinach, cheddar, and onion chutney. It's at Club Passim, which means live music at night; now has extra seating in front. Live music. $5-$10. Cash or check only. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sun. T-Harvard.

WEST SIDE LOUNGE 1680 Mass. Ave. 617-441-5566. Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Yes and yes. Bar means it's smoky - that's the downside. Foodwise, chef Alex Jenkins delivers. The Americanized Mediterranean menu runs from snacks to generously sized entrees, such as braised lamb shanks with butternut squash fregola (large couscous) or grilled salmon with arugula, leek, and smoked fennel salad. Save room for homemade ice cream. $15-$20. Reservations for 6 or more weekends. Sunday brunch. T-Harvard or Porter squares.

ZEN 16-18 Eliot St., 2d floor. 617-497-8288. An attractively decorated room overlooking Eliot Street, this second-floor space has housed a revolving door of Chinese restaurants. This most recent incarnation woos the Harvard Square crowd with mainstream Chinese-American fare. Service is polite, the kitchen is speedy, and the veggies are crisp, though there's a certain sameness to dishes ranging from moo shi vegetables to home-style tofu. $4-$18. Reservations (but only for 5 or more at lunch). T-Harvard.

ZEPHYR ON THE CHARLES Hyatt Regency Hotel, 575 Memorial Drive. 617-441-6510. An eclectic menu offers many dining options. Some of the small dishes are great in flavor and fun; the setting, however, is standard hotel. Quiet. $14-$21. Reservations. Closed Sun.

ZUZU 474 Mass. Ave. 617-864-3278, ext. 237. Chef Joseph Halabihas a bright, light touch, and an imaginative menu of small plates and entrees. Nestled between the Middle East restaurant and the Middle East rock club, and owned by the same group, the upscale ZuZu has everything from beautiful falafel to real couscous. $14-$20. Reservations for 6 or more. Lunch weekdays; dinner nightly. T-Central Square.