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RECIPES & ARCHIVES

Charles Draghi's sweet potato marjoram gnocchi with brown butter hazelnut Sauce

Charles Draghi's gnocchi dough is much softer than white potato dough because sweet potatoes are wetter and he adds milk and an egg to the mixture. Using 3 cups of flour gives these gnocchi a firm, starchy smack, which is what makes them so satisfying, says Draghi, of Marcuccio's in the North End.

For the gnocchi:

1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes (about 2 small)

1/2 cup whole milk

1 small egg

2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram

Pinch salt, plus 1 tablespoon for boiling

Freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 cups flour

For the sauce:

2 tablespoons sweet butter

1/2 cup skinned hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1/2 fresh lemon

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

To make the gnocchi, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet and cook for 50 to 55 minutes, or until tender.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, slip off the skins and mash them in a bowl until smooth. (You should have about 2 cups of sweet potato puree.) Add the milk, egg, 1 tablespoon of the marjoram, a pinch of salt, and several grinds of pepper. Stir until well mixed. Blend in 2 cups of the flour.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured flat surface and continue to add as much of the remaining 1 cup of flour as necessary to create a soft dough that is just a bit tacky. Let the dough rest for 15 minutes, then divide into pieces the size of tangerines. Proceed to roll out the gnocchi according to the simple steps for shaping gnocchi (see box).

Bring a large pot of water and 1 tablespoon of salt to a boil. Working in batches, add the gnocchi to the boiling water. When they rise to the surface (about 1 to 2 minutes), remove with a slotted spoon and place in a large shallow dish. (Save the pasta water.)

To make the sauce, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat, then add the gnocchi and hazelnuts. Cook until the gnocchi are slightly crispy and golden on both sides. Add 1/4 cup of the pasta water to the skillet, along with the remaining 1 tablespoon of marjoram, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese to taste.

Serves 4 to 6.