RECIPES & ARCHIVES

Red crostini are made at summer's height, when tomatoes come right out of the garden. Be careful with the red pepper -- Tuscan food should be gently suffused with the heat of chili peppers, but not so hot you run for the water pitcher.

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped

1/2 small dried hot chili pepper, finely chopped, or 1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

6 to 8 slices country-style bread (1 inch thick)

Fresh basil leaves, for garnish

In a medium frying pan, gently sweat the garlic in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until soft but not brown. Add the tomatoes and chili pepper, stir, and simmer gently 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Continue simmering for 45 minutes, or until the tomatoes are thoroughly dissolved and make a chunky sauce. Stir occasionally and add a little boiling water if the sauce gets too dry.

If you have a food mill, put the sauce through the disk with the largest holes. Or process briefly in a food processor to make sauce with a thick texture that's not too smooth. If the sauce is too liquid, return it to the pan and simmer again until most of the liquid has boiled away and it becomes a dense paste.

Slice the bread about the thickness of a finger and cut each slice in 2. Toast the bread on both sides and drizzle with the remaining olive oil, or saute the bread in the olive oil. Spoon the sauce onto the bread. Garnish with the basil leaves, if you wish.

Serves 6 to 8.