C.S., Worcester

A. The skunks are probably doing more good for your garden than the holes are doing harm, by finding and eating grubs. When the grubs are gone, the skunks will go elsewhere. As for a repellent, moth balls are probably the best. On the other hand, the skunks might ignore them. All you can do is try. Another repellent is cayenne powder, sprinkled on the beds. But be careful; it can cause severe allergeic reactions if breathed. So, to be safe, used flaked red pepper instead. Cayenne and flaked pepper will have to be renewed more often than the moth balls. Be warned that moth balls are toxic

Q. Squirrels are making themselves right at home in my walls. I put traps in the attic and caught only two. And, when I cover the access holes with wood, they just chewed right through it. Now what can I do?

C.W., Carlisle

A. One of the big problems with evicting squirrels and keeping them out is that they have found wonderful shelter in your attic and walls, and claim squatter's rights whether you were there first or not. With this attitude, they say, how dare you throw us out? And, when they do get thrown out, they are very persistent in trying to get back in. Keep up the good work with the traps. You might get more. A friend once trapped something like 600 squirrels over a five-year period. Now, that's persistence. If you get all the squirrels out, then the chore of covering holes begins. Squirrels usually gnaw through soft wood, and if you put a good wood patch over soft wood, they will just keep at it. They might anyway. So you have to tackle those holes properly. That may mean replacing the entire eaves system with sound, fresh wood, and painting or staining it well. To cover a hole, nail up hardware cloth first; this is half-inch steel mesh (quarter-inch is even stronger) that no rodent can get through. Then put up the wood cover.

Q. My golden retriever is eating my plants. How can I keep him away from them?

BARRY O'HAGAN, North Andover

A. Training, training, training ought to do it. Even a retriever can be trained not to eat plants. However, the dog may have a particular need for plants, so have a vet check him out. If the plants are houseplants indoors, a temporary solution would be to put them out of reach.

Q. I think I have a dead mouse in the attic. It began to smell when it warmed up; when it got cold, it did not. Then, in a warm spell, the smell returned. Is there a way to trace that odor to its source and get rid of it?

B.T., Braintree

A. Sure, with your nose. Not pleasant but possible. But if it is only in the attic, and it is, indeed, a mouse, the odor should not tarry for more than a few days because the mouse is small and will dry out fairly quickly; except, of course, when you have warm and cold periods. If it continues to smell, it might be bigger than a mouse, in which case the critter has to be found and disposed of.

Q. I am plagued by birds roosting on and doing other things to my deck railings. Is there something I can use to keep them off? I tried ammonia and water, without success.

PAT from Beverly

A. A number of things might help, although some will wash off in weather, and must be renewed regularly. Two of these are Fly Away and Roost No More, sticky substances that birds avoid when it is smeared on the railings. They are sold in building-supply stores. Some people feel that this sticky stuff is hazardous to a bird's health, but it has not been banned for use.

But here is something you can try that is nontoxic and not a hazard to the birds' health or yours. I saw this in Seattle not long ago, and it worked; I noticed no birds nor droppings on the railing equipped with the device, but saw lots of droppings on the rail that was bare.

Nail long aluminum nails into the rail at a slight angle; one nail near one side so that the nail is angled beyond the rail, another on the opposite side at the opposite angle. Space these pairs of nails every one or two feet, and string copper wire from nail to nail in a zigzag fashion, making two sets of wire that criss-cross as they go from nail to nail. This sort of cage is sure to prevent roosting and other bird hanky panky.

Bats
More about bats and how they hang from the gable overhang of the house of

I.K. of Bedford, N.H.

I.K.'s trim is of a soft material, enough for bats to cling to and hang from. I.K. does not want to kill the bats but does not want them hanging from the gable overhang, either.

The handyman suggested replacing that soft material with wood, and painting it, or covering it with aluminum or vinyl to eliminate the bat footholds.

Joe Spencer has another way. He is a batman, running a nonprofit company called Batnic (the ``nic'' stands for natural insect control), making and selling bat houses. Spencer says bat houses on his property in Shirley are full of bats in summer. Maybe if I.K. puts up a few houses, the bats will move to them, he said.

``My bat houses are high tech, will hold a number of bats, including babies and mothers, and have baffles and rough wood, ideal for bats. They sell for $50 and up,'' said Spencer.

Well, sir, any port in a storm, and I.K. or anyone else, for that matter, can call Joseph Spencer at 978-448-8198, or write to Batnic, 36 Groton Road, Shirley, MA 01464.

Q. Our house is brick with five stucco gables trimmed with a foam that is covered with stucco. Woodpeckers have pecked holes in the foam and done considerable damage.

It is against the law to shoot the birds and impossible to keep them away. The Department of Wildlife suggested decoy owls but they and other contraptions do no good. What can we do to repair or replace this trim permanently so that this will not be an ongoing problem?

B.W.S., Springville, Utah

A. So woodpeckers are a problem way out West, too. I am not surprised. They probably are a problem throughout the country. Pecking by the birds is a courting ritual, so it may not occur all year long.To make repairs, I suggest replacing foam trim with wood and stuccoing it, or simply painting it with an oil primer and finish with a latex paint. Or, put a layer of vinyl or aluminum over the trim, although either cover may be even noisier than it is now.

If this does not work, put up something along the gable that moves, although you said contraptions that move do no good.

That may be so, but New Englanders have found that hanging shiny aluminum pie plates along the gable might work. Hang them so they are free-hanging (not plopping against the wall); you may have to set up a little flagpole along the eaves to allow them to hang freely. And, hang them close enough together so they clatter in the wind. They will also flash in the sun as they move. Both the sound and the flashing will startle the birds, so they might go away and stay away.

A wind chime might be as good or better than the pie plates, if it doesn't drive you bananas before it bothers the birds. So might one of those wind socks, which are not only colorful but will move in almost any breeze.

Q. I've got one or more critters under my car hood. I never see them, but when I lift the hood, I see hundreds of acorn husks, maybe thousands. Is there a way to keep them out from under the hood? I use the car once or twice a week.

J.S., Georgetown

A. I'm guessing the critter is one or more chipmunks, and he is enjoying the warmth under that hood. That explains why he is there, but I have no explanation as to how to keep him away, except that in spring, summer and fall he might find other quarters.

Another good question is how he survives your twice weekly trips. If the car is in a garage, check out ways of sealing the door and any other invasion corridors. The garage is easier to seal than the car.

Q. Skunks just love it under my porch, which is surrounded by a concrete foundation about 6 inches deep into the ground. The critters burrow under the foundation. When they are under the porch, the dog barks and the skunks spray. It is a mess. I filled the outside of the foundation with bricks and stones where they have dug, but the critters just go to a side where there are no bricks. What can I do?

BARRY GOLDSTEIN, Newton

A. Ah, a little country in the big city, huh? Two things you can do: Continue to fill the outside of the entire foundation with bricks and stones. Or, dig down maybe 12 inches, and insert hardware cloth all around the foundation, so it is 12 inches deep into the ground and secured to the concrete. The skunks may be unable to dig that deeply into the ground to get under the hardware cloth. Another trick is to set the hardware cloth against the foundation with 12 inches extending on the ground out from the foundation. The critters will be unable to back off in order to get under the foundation. Hardware cloth is galvanized steel wire welded into 1/2-inch or 1/4-inch squares, and it is tough stuff.

Q. Squirrels are chewing off the paint on my outside stair risers, but not the wood. How can I stop them?

J.H., Littleton

A. Your squirrels must have a passion for the paint, finding it tasty. Being rodents (nothing but bushy-tailed rats, to my mind), they have to gnaw to keep their teeth from growing into their jaws, so it's a little surprising they are not into the wood, too. But just gnawing the paint may be enough to keep the teeth under control.

There are three things you can try: 1. Use a different paint; the squirrels might not like the taste. 2. Replace the risers with pressure-treated wood and do not paint them. If squirrels gnaw on pressure-treated wood, they will be in for a fatal surprise. Couldn't happen to nicer critters. 3. Remove the risers; outdoor steps are often without risers, which may not be a bad idea after all.

Chris Katsioules of Waltham wants to pass along her experience with a plague of mildew in her bathroom, which is bothering a lot of people. ``I had mildew growing behind my wallpaper,'' said Katsioules, and no amount of removing the paper, bleaching out the mildew and repapering cured the problem.

A neighbor suggested this, Katsioules said: Remove the paper, treat the wall with bleach and water, rinse and paint with Perma-White paint. ``We have had no mildew for four years. The paint store even tinted the Perma-White for me.''

The paint, which is hard and very glossy, claims to be mildew-proof, and to Katioules' delight, is just that, at least for four years, which is a long time for no mildew to grow in a bathroom.

Katsioules' call came in response to Marilyn Davidson of Medford, who asked the Handyman in January what to do with mildew that seemed to be growing under her wallpaper. If the Perma-White worked for Katsioules, it should also work for Marilyn Davidson.

It also might be possible to paper over the Perma-White, although this might be risky because of the hard, shiny surface the Perma-White creates. Therefore, the Handyman feels that the Perma-White should not be papered over.

Q. I'm converting a large shed into a kennel for four dogs; they are retrievers, and the kennel is necessarily large to accommodate the big dogs. The shed butts up against a free-standing garage. The dogs prefer cool weather and are better off for it, so how can I keep the temperature in the kennel from going above 40 degrees in winter?

ALAN DUNNE, Sherburne

A. I don't think you will have much trouble with that if there are open doors on the kennel. However, to make sure, put some ventilators on the roof, more than one if necessary, that you can open and close to allow air to circulate. If the doors to the kennel are closable, then you can add soffit vents if the roof has any kind of an overhang. Since you mentioned that the structure is a shed, I assume the roof has only one slope. Of course, if it gets above 40 outside in winter, you might have a problem, but one that you and the retrievers will have to live with.

Q. Help! Raccoons have been using my deck as a bathroom for years. I tried things like Thunder, a good repellent, but the oil-based material stained the deck. Fox urine did no good; neither did ammonia-soaked cloths and mothballs. A man took away eight of the critters but others keep coming. The Audubon Society suggested fruit tree netting, which worked for a while, but it has to be put on so that it billows, draped from a railing, but that makes the deck not so useful. And it's a big deck. Would a light work? Would one of those ultrasound machines work?

L.T., Newton

A. A light operated at night with a motion detector may be your best bet. The ultrasound machines have a mixed reputation; they may or may not work. But there is one in the Improvements catalog (1-800-642-2112) that uses an ultrasound or a sound alarm activated by a motion detector. It is about $90, and with your problem, that $90 might be a good investment.

The problem with repellents is that they wash off in the rain. Cayenne powder sprinkled on the deck might also help, but be extremely careful; a reader sprinkled cayenne powder liberally and had an allergic reaction that sent her to the hospital.

One of the reasons you are having a tough time getting rid of the raccoons is that they have marked the deck as their territory, and will be hard to budge. So, I suggest deodorizing the odor (even if you can't smell it) with a new product called Natural Magic. It does not mask the odor but oxidizes the material to eliminate the smell. It comes in three ``flavors'' and is sold in retail, hardware and grocery stores. Call 1-800-376-2442 for locations.

Q. I have some strange chewing or scratching marks, quite deep, on my corner board trim. The marks look like tracks. What are they, and how can I keep any critter from making more?

DAVID GROSSBAUM, Dover

A. Sounds like squirrels. One way to find out is to camp outdoors a while, nice and quietly, and see if you can see any critters in that area. The marks also could be from one or more woodpeckers, but from your description, I am not convinced.

No matter what the critter, try cladding the corner board with aluminum flashing, and paint it. You could cover the entire corner board or just the scratched part and see if any critter goes higher or lower than the aluminum-covered areas. You might be able to buy white-enameled flashing or sheet aluminum.

Q. Squirrels left their hair on parts of the screens on my porch. I tried Downy sheets without success. How can I get rid of that hair?

B.H., Bedford, N.H.

A. Ah, those New Hampshire squirrels are just like the rest of them. A big pain, no matter how you cut it. Try this: Hit the hair with a strong stream from your garden hose, aiming at the screen from inside out. If that doesn't work, power-wash the screens the same way. If some hair remains, wet it with paint thinner (this may dissolve the oils in the hair that are making it stick), then scrub with a dry scrub brush, first inside, then outside.

I know of no deterrent that would keep the squirrels off the screen. One thing you might try is cayenne powder. Wet the screen and sprinkle the powder on the screen; the dampness will make it stick better. If the screens get much rain water, the powder will wash off.

And be warned that cayenne powder is extremely hot and can be hazardous, particularly in powder form, because it is easily inhaled. One reader had severe reactions to it and had to go to the emergency room.

Q. My dog just loves to look out my high windows, but in so doing she has scratched the window sills beyond repair. How can I protect those sills? She has also done a job on the wallpaper under the window, trying to get to the sill. How can I protect the paper?

BRIDGET FARHAT, Scituate

A. Try cladding the sill in aluminum and painting that. Of course, the dog will scratch the painted aluminum, but she is unlikely to make deep fissures in the aluminum that she made in the wood. Fold the aluminum over the edge of the sill, and continue folding it under the edge as well. There will be no sharp edges.

Better yet, cut a piece of 1/4-inch Plexiglas or other clear plastic to the shape of the sill, and screw this on with solid brass, round-headed screws. The plastic will scratch, but the repaired and repainted sill will be protected. Replace the plastic when necessary.

Also, cover the wallpaper under the window with 1/8-inch plastic. Secure it with the screws mentioned above. You can apply the plastic directly to the wallpaper, so that it is touching the paper at all places; this way there will be no air pockets to cause condensation behind the plastic. If condensation occurs, set the plastic 1/4 inch away from the paper by inserting several washers under each screw.

Q. How can I keep pigeons off the landings of my outdoor stairs? Originally, the landings were screened off with regular insect screening, but that became torn, and was taken off.

R.J., Somerville

A. Hardware cloth to the rescue. Replace the screening with it, and if it is well secured, it will be resistant to most critters -- at least those that will be a bother on those landings. Hardware cloth, despite its incongruous name, is half-inch steel mesh; heavy-duty steel wire woven into a mesh with half-inch openings. It is so tough that it has to be cut with tin snips.

Q. Is there anything new in getting mice out of my attic? I have had great success with traps, but I just can't keep up with them. There must be many of them.

C.A., Carlisle

A. There is nothing new that I know of. Really persistent use of traps should do it, unless you have a supply coming in from outside. A cat in the attic would have a ball with them, and would be a deterrent, if nothing else, if Fluffy has the gumption to go after the mice.

A better way, if not new, is to use D-Con, a poison bait. I have found it very effective and, in my own experience, have not had any little corpses left around to decay and smell. Even if you had a few, they decay and dry up very quickly.

Q. Some critter chewed a huge hole -- 4 to 5 inches high and 6 inches wide -- in the bottom of a wood door on my garden house. I had a new door built, but how can I keep the critter from doing it again. And what kind of an animal would do that?

BARBARA CHOLAKOS, Arlington

A. How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? Well, woodchucks can chuck wood, because they're rodents and rodents have to keep chewing to keep their front teeth from growing too much. Since a woodchuck is pretty big, the hole is big. There must be something tasty in your garden house, too.

At any rate, you can screw a large kickplate on the door, of brass or stainless steel. You can get one from Renovator's Supply (413) 659-2211. The stainless steel ones range in size from 6 by 28 inches to 8 by 34 inches; solid brass from 6 by 28 inches to a huge 12 by 36 inches. One of those sizes should cover the bottom of your door, enough to deter any critter.

Q. My mother has squirrels in her soffits, but not in the attic. Apparently they got in by chewing through the eave board, and it sounds as if they are running all the way around the house, or at least up and down the full length of the soffits. How can she get rid of them? The house is vinyl sided and the soffits are covered with vinyl, but a lot of it has been chewed to bits.

DIANE SALLEY, Burlington

A. Consider her lucky that they are not in the attic. It's a matter of chasing out the squirrels and covering the holes in the soffit and eave boards. It is not easy getting squirrels out of their ``homes.'' But I think for Mom, the best way is to have the soffits removed, including the vinyl and any wood underneath, and perhaps also the eave boards (the boards, technically called fascias immediately below the roof edge). As this demolition is going on, the squirrels will leave, reluctantly and angrily. Then rebuild the fascia and soffit with sound wood. And cover the soffits not with vinyl but with aluminum, which is more of a challenge than vinyl.

All this sounds drastic, but I think it should be done because the fascia and soffit wood may be soft and punky (decaying, actually), which makes it even easier for squirrels to gnaw through.

Q. I have seen certain types of needle boards that are supposed to keep pigeons and other birds away from the lintels on my house. They sound like a great idea, but where can I get them?

CHRISTOPHER JONES, Charlestown

A. There are two places that make the needle boards or strips. With luck, they will indeed keep the pigeons away. Manufacturers are: Nixalite of America, 1025 16th Ave., Box 727 Dept. PN, East Moline, IL 61244; telephone (800) 624-1189 or (309) 755-8771. Ecopic, 725 South Adams Road, Suite 270, Birmingham, MI 48009; telephone (313) 647-0505.

Q. Birds are driving me bananas, trying to roost and nest under the aluminum canopy over my patio. It's been an ongoing problem since last summer. I tear down the nests they build near the drainpipe, but they come right back. You'd think they'd get the point and leave. Is there a way to keep them away?

ROB DEMATTIA, Revere

A. The most practical way is to screen in the area involved, if that is possible. How about converting the patio to a screened proch, keeping birds out of the entire area?

Two products -- Fly-Away and Roost-No-More -- are sticky substances that you can smear on the drainpipe and other surfaces where the birds are nesting. The birds don't like the stickiness on their feet and might go away. Some environmentalists do not recommend this treatment because the stickum could stay on a bird's feet, imperiling its life. I say the birds will have to take their chances.

Another possible deterrent is to make a nail board; drive many sharp nails through a board so they are sticking out of the board, points up. Use long, sharp nails. Place the board at the site and see what happens.

One person who had the same trouble decided to go along with the birds. ``I let them make their nest; they were there for a few weeks, then went away,'' she said.

Q. Squirrels are getting into and onto my folded canvas awnings, and when I open them in the spring, they are full of holes. How can I keep the squirrels off the awnings when they are in the ``up'' position in winter?

B.K., Braintree

A. It's a tough thing to do, other than taking the awnings down. Are they necessary? They might be important on the sunny side of the house to reduce the air-conditioning load or simply to keep the sun away. But to keep the squirrels off those nice, comfy, folded canvas awnings, the only thing I can think of is to spread on Fly Away, or Roost No More. This material, sold at building supply stores, is a sticky substance that the animals don't like, so they might go away. The stickum has to be renewed regularly because rain washes it off. But that's good because the stickum can be rinsed off with a hose before the awnings are put down for summer.

Some naturalists don't like the stickum, designed primarily against birds, because it could cause problems for animals that might get it on their feet. Well, the stuff is not illegal, and the animals will have to take their chances.

Q. How can I keep squirrels out of my chimney?

RAQUELLE RUIZ, Westford

A. Cover the chimney with a strong steel mesh, but make darned sure the squirrels (and any other critters) are out before you do so. A good cover is a stainless steel chimney cap, which may also increase the chimney's draft, and keep out rain -- two bonuses.

Or, wrap the top of the chimney with hardware cloth, which is 1/2-inch steel mesh that even a squirrel can't get through. Secure it to the top with copper wire or any other means, but make sure it's really tight, because while squirrels can't get through hardware cloth, they can pull it right off if it isn't extremely secure.

Q. I bought peanuts and seed in bulk for the birds and squirrels, and kept it in the basement. Presto, I am inundated with mice and rats, and they're not from the Big Dig. I used a Have-A-Hart trap without success. The previous owner put insulation in the basement ceiling, with a plastic cover under it. I can see the rodents running between the insulation and the plastic. Now what can I do? I did get rid of the seeds and peanuts. An exterminator told me that D-Con would take care of the mice, but not the rats. I'm desperate.

B.T., Brighton

A. Well, that's one way to attract rodents. If you see one mouse, chances are you have 20. There may be fewer rats, but they need treating even more than the mice. For the mice, D-Con will work, and it is hoped not too many of them will die in the house. Some poison baits will work for rats, and the handyman was successful years ago with a Black Flag bait product to get rid of his rat or rats. When using D-Con or any other bait, keep it away from kids, yourself, and pets. You can use snap traps for both, or sticky traps for mice.

What you have to do, in my opinion, is kill them. Or capture and kill them. They are not cute and cuddly, eat the US out of house and home, and carry diseases; even mice can carry diseases. They are a menace. It's against the law to transport them. Mice are easier to get rid of than rats.

Incidentally, take down that plastic under the ceiling insulation. It is giving the rodents a perfect habitat. With these runways down, the vermin will have fewer hiding places.

If all this seems a little much, call an exterminator.

A note to the animal rightists: Vermin have no rights.

Q. A skunk sprayed my vinyl siding, making a terrible stain. I tried many things -- ammonia, Zud, baking soda and water -- to remove it, without success. What can I use?

B.B., Reading, Mass.

A. Try washing the stain down with straight liquid chlorine bleach; wear skin and eye protection when working with bleach. Other things to try: Simple Green or a citrus cleaner (not paint remover). This might work: It is what removes egg stains. Brush on Shout, a laundry soaker. After it stands a while, reapply, and brush with a brush to loosen the material. Still another possibility: One quart hydrogen peroxide, one-quarter-cup baking soda, and one teaspoon liquid soap. Apply, let sit a few minutes, and scrub and rinse. If all fails, scrub with a cleanser or sand lightly with fine sandpaper.

Q. I have pigeons on my roof, and the fact that it is a Mansard roof makes things more complicated. Their droppings are ruining the house. I put up wind chimes some time ago, and the pigeons left, but now they are back with a vengeance. What else can I do?

KATHY DWYER, South Boston

A. Move to Iceland, maybe, but that's not practical, and besides, the seagulls and other seabirds might come instead of the pigeons. There are a number of things you can do, but it is iffy whether any of them will work. Although pigeons get used to ``scarecrows,'' such as dummy owls, one thing that might work a little better is a balloon with a big eye or eyes on it, representing a predator; it might make the pigeons at least nervous, and may even make them leave for greener pastures. The big eye balloons are sold in novelty and household goods stores. Moving the wind chimes occasionally might also work.

Another deterrent is Fly-Away or Roost-No-More, sold in building-supply stores. These are sticky substances that the birds don't like on their feet. Much of the roof should be treated because if only a small area is treated, the birds will just move farther up the roof. And, the material must be renewed when it is washed away by rain. The handyman was castigated for suggesting these sticky materials because, according to the castigator, the materials are a health hazard to the poor little birdies. As far as pigeons are concerned, the handyman says, they will have to take their chances along with the rest of us.

Also, a series of needle boards might do the trick. These are fierce-looking strips of metal with long, needlelike spikes sticking out at all angles. Apply these to the roof and the pigeons will have no place to alight. The needle boards are made by Nixalite of America, 1025 16th Ave., Box 727 Dept. PN, East Moline, IL 61244, 309-755-8771 or 800-624-1189, and Ecopic, 725 South Adams Rd., Suite 270, Birmingham, MI 48009, 248-647-0505.

One other way is to set up a mannequin in a rocking chair as a scarepigeon. The wind blows, the chair rocks, and poof go the pigeons. A reader said this worked on a balcony for her, but your problem is where to put the rocking chair.

Q. My son had to take down a window air conditioning unit because it was completely covered with bird doo. Is there any way that this can be prevented?

G. C., Woburn

A. Fastest and easiest is to install a central A/C system. Expensive, too, and not necessarily feasible. So, back to the drawing board. If the doo is from pigeons and other birds depositing it directly while walking around, try applying Fly-Away, Roost No More or Tanglefoot to the top of the unit. These are sticky materials that might discourage the roosting, and are sold at large buiding supply stores. They need renewing because they will wear away in weather. Or, possibly, set up a series of metal wires to act as a sort of cat's cradle to prevent roosting.

Q. My cottage stays empty in winter, when mice move in and I see droppings everywhere. Would a plug-in ultrasonic repellent work to keep them away?

H.S., Lexington

A. Probably not. One of the leading pest-control books, ``Common Sense Pest Control,'' reports generally negative results with such ultrasonic devices.

Your best bet (and the book confirms this) is to seal the house. That sounds like a big order, and it probably is, but it is the most effective way to keep out mice. Be aware that a mouse can go through a hole the size of a dime. Caulk all visible joints and stuff larger openings with Stuffit, a nonrusting steel wool. Regular steel wool will help, but will rust over time.

One obvious place of entry is under sinks and in cabinets, where pipes and wires enter, and where the sides of cabinets don't quite make it to the tops of cabinets and sinks, leaving gaps that mice can climb up and over. And they are good climbers.

Putting D-Con or other poisonous baits in cabinets and in the basement or crawl space may kill a lot of mice, which could help. But such baits may attract more mice than usual, and there will be others to take the place of the deceased brethren.

Q. I have radon in my basement, and hope someday to have a radon-dispersement system installed. But I also have insulation in the basement ceiling, backed by metal foil stapled to the ceiling joists, so the metal foil shows. I understand that the metal foil helps keep radon out of the house. But I also have mice, lots of them, which make their cozy homes and runways above that foil. I don't know how to best get rid of the mice; I don't want to take down the foil. Any solutions, compromises, or other actions I can take?

P.F., Brookline

A. That is a dilemma, but there are things you can do that might help. Keep after the mice with D-Con or traps. Keep the D-Con away from humans and pets. For some radon control, ventilate the basement; open windows and keep them open all year long. They don't have to be opened very much; an inch or less will do. Put a fan on the basement floor to get the air moving in and out. The basement will be cold, and you have to be alert to prevent freezing of water pipes, but the insulation on the ceiling is at least reducing the loss of heat from warm house to cold basement.

And, you can reverse the insulation; your current setup with the foil showing is technicallay wrong. The foil (a vapor barrier) should be against the floorboards above rather than on the bottom of the joists. This will eliminate the cozy space the mice are enjoying now, and if the foil is tightly against the floor above, this will be nearly as effective in keeping radon out of the house as the foil is in its present position.

If the radon stays high in the basement under these conditions (reversed foil and ventilation), it would be prudent to put in some kind of dispersement system.

Q. I am filling all kinds of holes in my walls and foundation to stop invasion from critters, and have heard that Stuffit, a nonrusting ``steel'' wool or gauze, works wonders. I have looked everywhere for it without success. Do you have any idea where can I find it? You are my last resort.

EVELYN MILONA, Lexington

A. The buck stops at the handyman's door, and you can buy Stuffit from Allen Special Products; telephone 800-848-6805. They can also tell you if any stores near you carry it.