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Q. My cabin in Vermont has had some serious ice dams on the shallow roof over the dormer. In order to make that roof colder, to prevent ice dams, I installed 3/4-inch-thick strapping on the roof (vertical strapping going up the roof and horizontal strapping going sideways, parallel to the eaves), then a new metal roof. I am concerned that this won't work, that the horizontal strapping will block air flow. I put the horizontal strapping in to support the metal roof, which I don't think would work very well only on vertical strapping. Is there anything else I should do, or do differently?

GREG PORTER, Rockport

A. I would sit tight for a while and see what happens. The air space between the metal roof and the old roof may stay cold enough to prevent ice dams, even though there is no air flow.

If ice dams occur in the future, then I suggest this: Remove the metal roof and the horizontal strapping, then replace the roof and make sure that the space between the vertical strapping is vented top and bottom so that air will flow up that space. You can put a ridge vent at the top to allow this continuous flow; ridge vents can be installed on metal roofs. If you need the horizontal strapping to hold the metal roof properly, then put in short pieces between the vertical strapping to allow air to flow around the gaps left by the short horizontal pieces.

Q. My cabin in New Hampshire has novelty siding on 2 x 4 studs, and the siding is leaking a little; at least I see water stains on the inside of the siding that is exposed (no interior wall finish yet). Would it be harmful if I installed insulation and then a plasterboard interior wall?

ED TIERNEY, Natick

A. It could be harmful because any leaks into the wall with insulation might keep the wood wet for much longer than now; at present, the moisture evaporates inside the house. And, insulation behind that siding would get wet and never dry out.

So, if you want to insulate, try this: Caulk the seams in the novelty siding with a caulking that matches the stain on the siding itself. You can get various colors in caulking in the PolySeamSeal and PhenoSeal brands. It may appear to be more work than it is worth, but this is the best solution, in my opinion. Caulk the outside seams.

Another solution would be to apply white cedar shingles over the novelty siding; there is no need to stain or to do anything to these shingles; they will weather and last for 40 years.

Q. My log cabin in New Hampshire is quite rustic but quite nice, too. However, the flat window-frame boards (casing) that sit on the round logs show gaps. How can I fill those gaps? Also, I have double-glazed windows with wood frames, and I also have some old storms that were taken down when the new windows were installed. Can I put the old storms back up?

RALPH SYLVIA, Vineyard Haven

A. As for the gaps, leave them open. That way, any water that gets into them will drain away readily. If you closed the gaps, any water trapped there might stay around long enough to cause decay. The only thing you will get in the open gaps is wasps and/or spiders, both of which will help you get rid of a lot of bugs.

As for the old storms, by all means, put them up. You will have triple glazing that way, and a third more insulating power.


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