S.B., Belmont

A. You had the same problem Horatio Hornblower had with his first independent command, a cargo ship damaged and captured in a battle and given to Hornblower to take back to England. Except the cargo was rice, which expanded horrendously when it got wet from the shot holes in the hull, eventually tearing the ship apart and sinking her. Poor Hornblower; he lost his first command.

You may not lose your ship, but the dog food did the same thing as Hornblower's rice, expanding when you added water and plugging the drain. An auger or snake will clear it, and since you already cleared the drain above the trap, now stick the auger farther down the drain, through the hole in the trap. Physical removal is the only way.

Since our first conversation, S.B. called back to say she cleared the blockage and water is flowing again, but the substitute brass bolt she bought to close the trap hole is leaking slightly. To fix that leak, try this: Back off the bolt a bit and put a bead of adhesive caulk around it, just under the head, then snug down the bolt again. This will compress the caulk to make a watertight seal (we hope).

Q. We plan to put in a new Corian countertop in our kitchen. Are there any negatives about this material as a countertop?

MARGARET & JOHN BRENNAN, Massachusetts

A. No negatives, on Corian and its competitors, in my opinion, except cost. It is expensive. I speak from experience, having owning two Corian vanity tops for at least 10 years. Corian resists absorption of stains and anything else, and stains and other blemishes can be sanded off with fine sandpaper or emory cloth. Scratches can also be sanded off with no adverse effects; it will take a little longer to eliminate scratches. You can use cleansers or abrasive pads, but these will take even longer. Chips, I believe, can be filled with a liquid repair solution and sanded smooth.

Q. The water won't drain out of my kitchen sink unless I use the disposal. How can I fix it? Also, I have a small television set that is very sticky and dirty. How can I clean it?

IRENE, Newton

A. Obviously, the disposal doesn't stay open when it isn't working. It might have broken, or needs a simple adjustment. Check the manual; if there is no information on blockages or there is no manual, then call a plumber. If the disposal is not broken or defective, it may be sinple to fix, but it escapes the handyman.

To clean the TV set, disconnect it and clean only the top and sides, and the screen, not the back or anywhere else there are wires. A set can give you a shock even unplygged. The best cleaning solution for this is a half cup of ammonia in a bucket of warm water; the ammonia will cut the grease very nicely. Don't soak the surface; squeeze out a sponge till almost dry and wipe lightly. It doesn't take much oomph. While you're at it, you can clean the stove and microwave the same way.

Q. My kitchen cabinets are particleboard coated with a resin. Near the oven, some of the doors have developed very fine, hairline cracks. How can I remove them?

DOROTHY FELDMAN, Winchester

A. If the cracks are the same color as the door, and don't show too much, I think it is best to live with them. If they are a different color and sort of stand out, try this: Sand thoroughly and apply a satin or eggshell finish latex wall paint. You will probably never get the right sheen, but I think it is your best bet. Of course, sand and paint the whole door, not just the cracks.

Q. I plan to bring an old slate sink in the basement up to my kitchen. How can I clean it?

H.A., Rockport

A. That slate is probably soapstone, which was extremely popular many years ago for sinks, especially laundry tubs in the basement. It was also used for laboratory table tops. To clean, wash first with paint thinner inside and out. Then sand the finish with fine sandpaper, then wash with paint thinner, and finish up with detergent and water. You are not so much cleaning the sink but removing the top layer of stone, which will turn quite light in color. If the fine paper takes too long, switch to medium.

With everything clean and light, now coat the surface with mineral oil; apply the oil and smear it all over; let it sit for 15 minutes, then rub and rub with your hands. Finally, wipe off all residue (all that will come off) with a dry cloth. Dispose of oily cloths carefully by burning them.

The oil will darken the soapstone, but will bring out the rich color of soapstone: black, gray and green. You can repeat with the mineral oil any time, and any number of times.

Q. Glue of some kind was spilled on my Formica counter, leaving a little raised area. How can I remove it? The top is white, and the stain has a grayish tone.

SHIRLEY SLATER, Brewster

A. What you can use to remove the glue depends on what the glue is. If it is Super Glue, try Super Glue Remover, sold, obviously, where Super Glue is sold. Or fingernail polish remover containing acetone. Try an obscure area first to make sure whatever you use does not affect the plastic. If it is Elmer's glue or anything similar to white or yellow glue, water should dissolve it.

A last resort is emory cloth or very fine sandpaper used with water. Go very lightly. The emory cloth or sandpaper will abrade the glue and the water will help prevent scratching. If after sanding there is a dull spot, you can polish the top with furniture polish.

Q. My kitchen cabinets are still in good shape, but they are badly stained by cigarette smoke. Is there a sure-fire way to get rid of the stains? I have tried a lot of things without success.

FRANK ALBRIS, Winter Haven, Fl.

A. You didn't mention what you have already tried, but here's what I'd do: Make a strong solution of Spic and Span and water, and apply this to the cabinets. Let it sit on the cabinets for two or three minutes or even more, keeping it wet; this will allow the Spic and Span to dissolve the stains so you can clean them off. Or, Simple Green, again letting it sit on the finish for a few minutes before scrubbing with a sponge and rinsing off. Or, this solution: 1 cup ammonia, 1/2 cup white vinegar, 1/4 cup baking soda, in 1 gallon warm water. As with any cleaner, letting it sit on the finish for several minutes is more likely to make it work than trying to swish it on and off. Another possibility: Soil & Soot remover, a sponge that uses no water. It is manufactured in Worcester and is available for $2.99 at some hardware stores. When the sponge gets dirty, wash with soap and water for reuse. Let dry before reusing. My good friend Jerry Morris of Orange discovered this and told me about it. He found it in a store on Cape Cod, but that is a long drive from Winter Haven!

Q. My Formica countertop is set on pressed board, a kind of plywood that looks like strands of straw. The Formica is starting to delaminate where it overhangs the edge of the counter, just over the dishwasher. Also, some of the pressed board is deteriorating and dropping down, I assume from the steam from the dishwasher. Can I fix it so it won't happen again?

C.E., Franklin

A. Fixing it is certainly possible. There are two ways. That straw-looking pressed board is OSB (oriented strand board), which is nearly as good as plywood, although not very moisture resistant, but much better than particleboard.

To fix: If the OSB is not in very bad shape, you can pry off the edge laminate and glue a piece of new laminate on the underside of the OSB, which, if done right, will keep the steam away from it. Use PhenoSeal, a phenolic vinyl adhesive caulk that will hold for dear life. To fix the delaminating counter top laminate, pry it up along the edge and insert the adhesive caulk. Weigh down the laminate and leave overnight. Then reattach the edge laminate with the same adhesive caulk.

If the OSB has deteriorated beyond repair, the fix is still possible but more difficult. Take off the edge laminate and pry up the laminate as best you can, so you can cut out the deteriorating OSB. Cut a piece of pine to the size and shape of the part you removed, and glue it and screw it in place. Then put a piece of laminate on the underside and proceed as above. Or, prime it with an oil primer such as Kilz and finish with an oil-based enamel, just to keep the steam out. Obviously, that piece of pine should be as thick as the OSB.

Q. My kitchen cabinet doors just don't shut properly. They have springs that should allow the doors to close snugly, but they don't. I can't replace the hinges with the concealed types because they requiring mortising the door. How can I get the doors to close?

GENEVIEVE McCARTHY, Roslindale

A. Your hinges might be slightly out of position, although trying to relocate them will be tricky and tedious. You can get spring-loaded concealed hinges that do not require mortising. They are sold by the Woodworker's Store (telephone 800-279-4441). I used some but they didn't allow a proper closure either, probably because I didn't locate them quite right. So, I installed ordinary latches, which is what you might be able to do to solve the problem.

Just for kicks, I checked out some spring-loaded, decorative brass hinges in the Renovator's Supply catalog. And did I ever get a kick: They are $50 each (gulp). Not a pair, but each.

A note on drilling holes in ceramic tile. The handyman suggested to a caller than an ordinary steel drill bit in a power drill will work well. A masonry bit will not work. But be sure to test your technique on a spare tile or even a piece of a tile, and to chip the tile ever so slightly where the hole is supposed to go, so that the drill will not skid when you start drilling. And try to drill at a slow speed.

Joe Horner of Belmont called to tell us that you can buy a special spade-blade bit for ceramic tile that will make the job easier. And it works on glass as well, Horner said.

The bits are sold in well-stocked hardware and home supply stores. Thanks, Joe Horner.

Q. I am updating my kitchen, but I want to keep my stainless-steel cook top. Trouble is, there are gray and white stains on the top, and rings from spilled water or salt water. How can I clean those stains?

G.W., Belmont

A. Here are some methods that you can try: Spray Easy Off oven cleaner, leave overnight and wash. Once or twice a week, wash with baking soda. Do not use steel wool on stainless steel; bits will get into the steel and cause rust spots. Oven cleaner seems kind of harsh for stainless steel, so test a small area.

For polishing and cleaning, try Cameo Aluminum and Stainless-Steel Cleaner, or Never Dull Magic Wadding. Or try Soft Scrub, but be careful because it is a mild abrasive.

Q. A bit of my laminated plastic counter top is lifting along the front edge of the counter. Some of the edging is also coming off. Can I use contact cement to glue it back down?

A.V., Needham

A. Yes and no. Yes, you can use contact cement to put the edging back on. No, you can't use it to glue down the lifted top because it is impossible to apply the conctact cement properly on both the counter top and the back of the lifted plastic. If you use contact cement on the edging, specify nonflammable cement; it is safer to use than standard cement.

For the lifted plastic, use an adhesive caulk; PhenoSeal and PolySeamSeal are two good ones widely available and easy to work with. It comes in a caulking cartridge, so it is easy to squeeze some into the space. Spread it around, press the laminate back in place, put a piece of plywood on top and weigh it down with a couple of buckets of water. The plywood is simply to spread the weight around evenly. You can also reapply the edging with the adhesive caulk, which is strong enough to hold ceramic tile on a vertical surface.

Q. What's the best way to refinish my oak kitchen floor? I refinished it just two years ago and it has worn off.

S.A., Newton

A. You may have to sand the floor three times so the new finish will adhere properly. Or, sometimes you can simply sand enough to reduce gloss and roughen the finish. Either way, three coats of an oil-based, high-gloss polyurethane will give maximum protection. But since the old finish wore off in two years, it means it gets a lot of traffic; therefore, after applying the varnish, put down a rug or two, small enough to expose wood for good looks, but also enough to reduce wear and tear.

There is no finish you can buy or install on an oak floor that will stand up to heavy traffic for very long.

Q. The kitchen linoleum in some rental property I own has worn out. What has the greatest longevity: sheet vinyl or linoleum tile? Or something else? I also have to have the brick house repointed, at a cost of $5,000-$15,000. That is not too bad, because I know it is a lot of work; but how can I get a good mason?

B.Q., Andover

A. For longevity (virtually forever), use glazed ceramic tile. Things will break when dropped on it, but the tile can be cleaned by a swish with a wet cloth. Sheet vinyl generally is more durable than vinyl tiles. Getting a good mason is a matter of luck. Check the Yellow Pages, then find out from the Better Business Bureau if any complaints have been filed against the mason you may hire. If you know anyone who has hired a mason, ask him how he likes the job. And so on.

Q. My kitchen has an old stove vent in the wall, which was cut off and the opening plastered over. But 1/2 inch of the pipe is still sticking out from the wall. I am getting water and greasy stuff from that pipe. How can I prevent that oozing?

WALTER MOORE, Melrose

A. You can cut it off and replaster the opening, or find out where it leads and remove it altogether. It may be going up the wall into the attic and through the roof. The water and greasy stuff (which is oily water) is caused I think by condensation in the wall, so the best thing to do is remove the pipe if possible.

First, cut out the plaster surrounding the pipe, and see if it is loose. If it is, you can check for it in the attic (or wherever else it goes) and just take it apart. If it goes through the roof you will, or course, have to patch the roof.

If you can't remove it, cut it off at the bottom and plug it with a plastic plug or anything else that works. Any further condensation on and inside the pipe in the wall cavity will not be enough to worry about. If you can see the pipe in the attic, you might be able to cut it off and cap it, so you don't have to remove it entirely and consequently patch the roof.

Q. My white kitchen cabinets are three years old. I think they are painted. All but one of the doors and drawer fronts have turned yellowish. That one door, plus the frame have stayed white. What's wrong?

G.R., Westwood

A. I think the doors and drawer fronts are vinyl coated, a cladding that is a common practice in making some cabinets. Vinyl can turn yellowish over time, but three years is short for that to happen. They may be defective, and your next priority is to contact the cabinet company.

That single pristine door indicates to me that it is the only one that is not defective, or, it is painted. As for the frame, if it is not vinyl clad, it is enameled; good enamels stay white.

Q. The cork tile on my kitchen floor is real cork, and has a water stain. A thin coat of wax on the floor is not providing the needed protection. What can I do?

STEVE BERMAN, Brookline

A. To reduce the stain, which may be in the finish, not the cork, try stripping the wax with a wax stripper or paint thinner, then sanding the stain with extra fine sandpaper to the bare cork. You may have to restain it in that area, and if the new stain blends in well, rewax.

Or, varnish the cork for a longer-lasting finish. Remove all wax, sand the cork with fine paper, restain if necessary, and apply three coats of an oil-based polyurethane varnish.

Q. My wood cabinets were painted with three coats primer and one finish coat. I know I need two finish coats, and already I am getting chipping. How can I prevent chipping?

LISA JOINER, Leominster

A. Two reasons for the chipping: Too many primer coats were applied (one is enough to allow paint to stick), and all coats were put on too thickly. Assuming the chipping was at the edges of doors and frames, ease those edges before repainting; that is, smooth them off so they are not so sharp. Do this with medium sandpaper or a plane, then sand smooth.

Q. I stained the knotty pine in my kitchen years ago with Puritan Pine stain from Minwax. Only stain was used. How can I clean it?

WILLIAM COBBETT, Swampscott

A. Try wiping it with paint thinner. This will clean the finish, but will not affect the stain. The finish will be clean, but you won't notice it. Paint thinner will not clean ground-in dirt.

Q. A corner of my laminated-plastic countertop has lifted. I tried to reglue it, using contact cement. I coated the wood countertop with the contact cement but it didn't work. How can I glue it back?

S.M., Raynham

A. The contact cement failed because you have to coat both sides for it to work -- the counter top as well as the underside of the plastic. But instead of trying to do that (it's tough to cover all surfaces, especially if the lifted areas are hard to get to), try this: Insert an adhesive caulk. It comes in a caulking cartridge so it is easy to cover inaccessible areas. Press the plastic in place and put a weight on it overnight. It should work well.

Q. I bought a house with a 1951 knotty pine kitchen. It is very dark. I did a test, rubbing it with alcohol, and it came out a pleasing yellow. How can I get it all that way, and what should I finish it with?

ANNE MORSE, Marblehead

A. The finish's reaction to the alcohol indicates it is shellac, probably orange shellac, and more rubbing with denatured alcohol should reveal that pleasing yellow, so you can do all the walls. To refinish, choices are limited because of that shellac. Try applying one or two coats of a clear shellac. It's a little shiny but will dull down fairly quickly. This shellac will darken the yellow a bit but not so much that you won't like it; besides, you cannot keep from darkening the finish.

There are two other possibilities but no promises, because many polyurethane varnishes are incompatible with shellac. So, to find out, paint a small, obscure area with water-based polyurethane varnish. If it peels overnight, you know you can't use it. Try the same with an oil-based polyurethane varnish. If that peels, then you can't use that, either. Sometimes just a residue of shellac that remains after you treated it causes the problem. And it is pretty tough to get off every trace of shellac, especially in the grooves of the paneling.

Q. My Formica counter top is off white, self-edged with a 1 1/2-inch-wide edging of Formica. There is a black line where the top and the edge meet, and that black line is constantly staining my clothes. How can I prevent that?

M.L.B., Chestnut Hill

A. The makers of the laminated plastic make a crack filler called Seamfill, sold at stores that carry the laminates, but that black line is not deep or wide enough for Seamfill to fill.

You could try painting that line with polyurethane varnish, or even an oil-based enamel to match the color, but this is only a stopgap.

Here's an idea that will work and may make the counter look better. Remove the edging laminate; it should come off easily by applying heat and prying up under its edge. Install a 1 1/2-inch-wide oak trim in its place. This is a common practice with laminated counter tops. You may have to rout the edge of the counter top laminate so that the oak will butt flush against it, but with care, it will work nicely. Coat the oak with three coats of high-gloss polyurethane varnish and you have a new look, and no stained clothes.

Q. My son wants to replace a seamless kitchen floor that is very dry and porous. I think it will last a little longer, but is there a way to protect it so it will last a while? Can I put a coat or two of polyurethane varnish over it?

L.C., Peabody

A. I don't think any kind of varnish will work; it would be hard to make it stick, so avoid it. If it started to peel, you would be in a bigger mess than you are now. You might try to coat it with Future, though. This is an acrylic designed for linoleum and some vinyl floors, and might look good for a while and keep it going. But don't expect too much; that seamless floor is probably 10 or 15 years old anyway.

Q. My kitchen floor looks like maple and is nice, but gaps between the boards are as much as a quarter-inch. I think the boards are square-edged; that is, they are not tongue-and-groove. Debris and gunk get into the gaps, making a mess. How can I fill those gaps?

S. M., Concord, N.H.

A. If the boards are square-edged, you could cut a thin strip of pine or other wood, stain it and tap in place. You may have to taper it to fit any gap that is uneven. I suggest staining the filler strip because any new wood will be lighter than the original, and it's easier to stain it before installing it. The wood strip will stay in place because the gaps are as deep as the floor boards are thick.

Another trick that you might find better than the wood strips is to force hemp rope into the gaps. You may need two layers of rope.

If the boards are tongue-and-groove, it is impossible to fill the gaps because their depth is less than a quarter-inch, and nothing you can put in there will hold or stay. There is one other possibility if the floor boards are tongue-and-groove: Fill the gaps with a colored caulking compound, one that gets hard enough to prevent it from being tracked around.

Q. Some of my dog's natural oils have gotten into the almond-colored grout on my kitchen ceramic tiled floor. How can I clean it? And just as important, keep it clean?

ED CONNIFF, Marshfield

A. Try sanding the grout to reveal new grout, then sealing it with a masonry or tile sealer. You could sand with a narrow piece of sandpaper without touching the tile, or even try scraping the grout to take off the top layer. The sealer will make the grout water resistant and, therefore, resistant to dirt and dog oils.

But since it is an oily dirt, you could try cleaning with KRC-7, sold in plumbing supply stores. Tag is another cleaner that might work. And be sure to seal the grout.

That's the trouble with light-colored grout. It gets dirty if you look at it. Americans are hung up on designer colors, usually very light colors; they have to have things just right, then pay the price for it. Another cure for your dirty grout is to remove it and install black or dark gray grout. Either color can look good with most tile, and while it will get dirty sooner or later, the dirt simply won't show.

Q. My kitchen floor has a no-wax vinyl covering. Several rubber-backed rugs were put down some time ago, and when I lifted them they left a yellowish stain. How can I remove that stain?

P.D., Hudson

A. I don't think the stain will come up, because light-colored sheet vinyl tends to stain chemically, and there is no cure that I know of. You could try this, however: Dip fine steel wool in paint thinner and rub the stain lightly.

Q. I am getting new countertops for a 1960s kitchen, but getting the old laminated plastic off the plywood top is a challenge. How best to remove it? Can I put new plastic over the old? If we go down to the top's plywood, how should we prepare the wood for relaminating?

LISA VIRELLO, Hingham

A. First, apply heat to remove the old plastic. A flat iron will do; a hot-air gun certainly will, but is too risky. Pry up the plastic as you go along; start by inserting a wide putty knife or chisel under an edge of plastic at the front of the top. Remove any edging first. Remove any metal beads that might be part of the counter top. With the old plastic off, you can apply non-flammable contact cement on the plywoodtop, and the same on the back of the new laminate, and place the new laminate in the right position. If there were metal beads as part of the old top, do not try to put in new ones; it is better to make the new laminate self-edged.

As for the edges, it's probably easier to take them off before you tackle the top. You can cut the new ones and install them last. Or, for a stylish touch, install a decorative edge strip of oak and varnish it.

You can put new laminate over old, but only if there are no metal beads in the original laminate. Sand the old surface thoroughly and proceed with the installation as above.

Q. My kitchen floor has a no-wax vinyl covering. Several rubber-backed rugs were put down some time ago, and when I lifted them they left a yellowish stain. How can I remove that stain?

P.D., Hudson

A. I don't think the stain will come up, because light-colored sheet vinyl tends to stain chemically, and there is no cure that I know of. You could try this, however: Dip fine steel wool in paint thinner and rub the stain lightly.

Q. I scraped and sanded my kitchen ceiling as much as I could, then filled in the little craters caused by the paint peeling with joint compound. But the compound failed. How can I fill those craters?

LINDA WESTLAND, Chelmsford

A. Joint compound sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, as you discovered, and I don't recommend it for this purpose. I think it's best to sand heavily, with a power sander with medium to coarse sandpaper, to remove as much paint and compound as possible, then repainting with thin coats of ceiling paint. All things being equal, the more paint you get off and the thinner the coats of paint, the better the chances of success.

Q. There are two layers of sheet vinyl on my kitchen floor, and I plan to install 12- by 12-inch squares. The sheet vinyl is in good shape but embossed. Can I put on those tiles?

IRVING SALL, Norwood

A. Yes, you can. Get the floor antiseptically clean, and use the peel-and-stick tiles. However, there might be a problem with those embossings, which could ghost through the new tile. To avoid this, maybe, choose a busy pattern for the new tile. The embossing will still ghost through, but you may not see it through that busy pattern.

Q. My kitchen is harvest gold (!), which I am trying to get rid of as fast as I can. I took a laminate backsplash from the plaster wall and plan to replace it with tile. How can I remove the contact cement that remains on the wall? The cement is not very thick, but I am afraid it will not be a good background for tile.

J.P., Wenham

A. If it is not thick and is reasonably smooth, as contact cement usually is, you should be able to put the tile on with adhesive without doing anything with the contact cement that is there now. This is best done if the wall is plasterboard; trying to scrape anything off plasterboard is going to do a real job on the plasterboard paper.

If the wall is real plaster, you could try applying a little heat from a hair dryer to soften the cement enough to scrape off. Or, if the cement is fairly hard, scrape it off with a chisel.

But let's all hope the old cement is smooth enough to be a good base for the tile adhesive.

Q. The cherry cabinets in my kitchen are 25 years old and they look OK, but they are sticky. How can I get rid of that stickiness?

CALLER, from Milton

A. Stickiness sometimes happens on old finishes, and no one that I know of has a real answer. The handyman would like to know if anyone has an answer, and how to correct it.

The stickiness might be worse in humid weather, but it might not go completely away in winter with the heat on. So, wash the cabinets with paint thinner; put it on liberally, let it sit there a few sconds, then wipe, and dry with a dry cloth. If that doesn't work, try alcohol.

Another trick is to wipe the cabinets with talcum powder, as little as possible so it won't show but enough to take the curse off the stickiness.

If any of those treatments fails, it means the cabinets might require refinishing. Or, sand the cabinets lightly but not enough to take off the stain, and apply one coat of an oil-based polyurethane varnish. Before you refinish, wipe rubbing alcohol on the finish; if it softens the finish, it is shellac, and sticky shellac must be refinished. If the alcohol does not soften the finish, it is varnish or lacquer, which can be sanded and varnished as above.

Q. I have some handsome wood-hued cherry kitchen cabinets, with raised panels. I plan to paint them, sanding and washing first, then using an oil primer and finally an oil enamel. How can I prevent the raised panels from shrinking so much that an unpainted line shows beteween panel and frame?

CLINT CABAN, Medfield

A. You can't, really. The panels are floating in their frames, and expand when they gain moisture, and contract when they lose it. In winter, usually, they lose moisture and shrink, and open the seams. If you tried gluing the panels, they are likely to explode with a sharp report as they shrink next spring.

To minimize the showing of this unpainted strip, do all painting in the dead of winter, or at least during the heating season, when the wood is at its smallest. A disadvantage to this is that the paint bead on the joints will crack as the wood dries out, making the joint ragged, and uglier than it is now.