WYNN GERHARD, Plymouth

A. Not really, because you have to determine what kind of a pipe it is: water supply (small pipe) and, usually, a steady leak, or a drain pipe (two or three inches in diamater) and a sporadic leak because water is in the pipe only when a sink, shower, tub, or toilet is drained. If you know where the pipe is, a small part of the wall can be removed to allow inspection and to locate the leak. Then enough wall is removed to get to the leak and fix it. While this is a pain, it is not so difficult to patch a wall. If the hole or holes are relatively small, you can close them up by building up layers of joint compound until the hole is closed. Smooth off, sand smooth, and repaint. If the hole is large, make it bigger, enough to expose two studs, being careful to expose half the stud. Cut a plasterboard patch to insert, nail, or screw it to those exposed studs, and fill the joints with compound, paper tape, and more compound for an invisible patch.

Q. Not long after I had a kitchen wall painted, the paint peeled in a certain area. The painter said it was due to dampness, noting that the wall in that area was, indeed, damp. He broke into the wall and found a vertical pipe in the cavity and it, too, was damp. The pipe is 2 inches in diameter, empty of water, and touching the back of the wall finish. The painter patched the wall where he broke into it and repainted. A month later, there is a bubble where the pipe is. Now I'd like to get rid of the pipe. Are there plans of the house at City Hall that I could use to try to remove the pipe?

R.W., Jamaica Plain

A. You can check with the building department of your community. That pipe sounds like a drain long out of use. It was probably disconnected during renovations; there was no need to reconnect it, so it was left in place.

What is happening is that water vapor is condensing on that pipe because it is cold, and it is transferring moisture through the plaster or plasterboard, ruining the paint. If the plaster has stayed wet a while, it will become powdery, and will not hold paint, so simply repainting will not work. If you cannot remove the pipe, I suggest this: Open the wall again and insert a piece of 1-inch Styrofoam between wall and pipe; this will keep the pipe away from the wall.

But since the plaster is probably so powdery that it will not hold paint, replace that also before painting.

Q. One of the pipes leading to my oil tank is not sealed well, and oil seeps out. It smells up the basement. Can I seal that joint and what can I seal it with? Would silicone caulking do?

D.M., Acton

A. Since it is seepage and not a leak, and that union does not involve venting, then you can seal it, and silicone caulking might work. But you must get that union clean and dry. Wipe it with paint thinner to remove the oil seepage and dry it thoroughly before caulking. Continued seepage under the caulking may tend to dissolve it, so I don't know how long the seal will last. But if that doesn't work, try furnace cement instead.

Frozen pipes
Honey, I froze the pipes. What wife doesn't dread these words, and what's worse, her husband admitting it.

But it's not really hubby's fault. It's Mother Nature raising havoc whenever it gets cold (20 degrees or so) and stays that way for days and weeks.

Sometimes a frozen pipe is only a nuisance, cutting off the water supply. The big fear, is a burst pipe. Water expands when it freezes, and can break a joint or split the pipe, causing a leak that must be dealt with quickly: If no one is home, a leak spells disaster. A pipe is more likely to burst or split if the freeze occurs at corners, at a 90-degree turn.

Often enough, water can freeze in a straight pipe and nothing will happen because the expansion of the water occurs along the length of the pipe. When the thaw comes, all is well.

It's easier to freeze water pipes in some houses than in others. Old houses are susceptible because of the location of the pipes: running perilously close to, within inches of, a stone or concrete foundation in the basement, in unheated and unprotected crawl spaces, and in uninsulated walls. In attic floors, above the insulation, you are asking for trouble.

Pipes in an unheated basement are usually safe from freezing because basement temperatures rarely go below 40, even in the coldest of winters, and sometimes when the heat goes off. That is, the pipes are safe as long as they are not too close to a masonry foundation, which not only gets as cold as outdoors but stores that cold.

The hazard in a crawl space is increased because there is less air volume in such spaces, and the air gets colder than in a basement that has more air volume.

Pipes in uninsulated walls may freeze, particularly if they are nearer the outside cover of that wall than the inside cover. But pipes in uninsulated walls are usually safe because the cavity is warmed by gaining heat from inside the house.

In modern houses with insulation in the walls, the pipes are, or should be, touching the inside cover of the wall.

So now's the time to do something about keeping susceptible pipes from freezing. Turning the water on to a trickle during a heavy freeze will keep the water moving, and moving water takes longer to freeze than still water.

This is a big waste of water, particularly if it is the hot water that is flowing. And a faucet left on ever so slightly will wear out faster than one that is used normally.

Letting the water run is temporary, until you can do something permanent.

Relocating pipes in the basement a few feet from the foundation will help. Insulating them will, too. Use the tube type insulation; it is a foam tube slit down its full length to allow it to be slipped over the pipe. Use the right sized tube; a 1-inch tube on a 3/4-inch pipe is very little insulation because it fits too loosely.

Make sure the tubes cover corners. You can cut the tubes at a 45-degree angle so the sections will fit tightly. Also, apply duct tape to all seams, both along the length of the tubes and at vertical joints as well, where sections meet.

Another prevention is to expose susceptible pipes to the heat in the house. Warming up the basement will help, but that is an expensive measure.

If you have a vertical pipe in an uninsulated wall, you can get house heat to it by cutting holes in the wall, one at the bottom and one at the top. The holes don't have to be big, and you can put a decorative grille over them. This way, warm house air will circulate in the wall cavity. There will be some heat loss, but not a lot.

Then, someday, you can blow insulation in the walls and not only reduce heat loss but keep those pipes from freezing, and the little holes will not be necessary. Of course, that's if the pipe is close to the inside cover of the wall.

Pipes in insulated walls should be located next to and touching the interior wall cover. That way, insulation will cover it on the outside.

Sometimes a simple source of heat will prevent a pipe in the basement from freezing. Hang a trouble light, one of those caged bulbs on an extension cord, on the susceptible pipe, more than one if necessary. A 100-watt bulb is not too big.

These lights may not only keep the pipe in the basement from freezing but also, if they are close enough to the vertical pipe going up the wall, may keep that pipe from freezing too.

A few 100-watt bulbs will not cost much, even if you keep them on all winter, or at least during cold spells. It's a small price to pay to keep pipes from freezing. Don't use fluorescent bulbs; they are not hot enough.

As with all heat sources, keep those hot bulbs away from flammable materials.

So much for prevention. How do you unfreeze a pipe?

With heat. One or more trouble lights hung on a pipe might do the trick, but it takes time.

Other heat sources are a soldering iron, hot-air gun, hair dryer, and a flame torch, but don't put any source too close or touching the pipe; you could generate steam, and steam between two frozen sections could cause an exposion and a split pipe.

Be particularly careful with a hot-air gun and flame torch; I don't even like to mention them because they are very hazardous, especially indoors.

A final thawing technique: Wrap the pipe in heavy cloths and pour boiling water on the cloth.

How to thaw out a pipe in the wall? Put one or more heat lamps near the wall; not so close you will scorch paint or burn wallpaper. This takes time.

When thawing out a pipe, open the faucet and work on the freeze, if you know where it is, from the faucet end toward the water source. If you do it the other way, the thawing water will be blocked, and you could burst a pipe or cause other problems. If you work from the faucet end in, melted water will simply pour out the open faucet.

These are the things you can do during a cold snap. And if anyone tells you to relax, tell him to go scratch. This work is not a relaxing pastime.

Q. My old house, converted years ago from a cottage, has a real Rube Goldberg smoke pipe going from the furnace in the middle of the basement to the chimney on an outside wall. The pipe comes out 5 inches, then goes 20 inches vertical, then goes 33 inches horizontal, then turns to go 8 feet 7 inches to a ``T'' adapter and 22 inches into the chimney. Another pipe for the water heater goes another 7 feet to that ``T.'' The pipe feels soft. Although the smokepipe was replaced, I am concerned that it will happen again. Is there a way to reduce the run and all those turns? Both the furnace and the water heater are oil-fired. The basement is mostly ledge, so I can't move the furnace very far. There is also a bad smell.

A.A., Billerica

A. Whooey, that is a real Rube Goldberg affair. The long run (about 15 feet) is too long for a smokepipe, and all those turns (I count at least five) aggravate the problem not only by reducing the flow of gases but allowing a buildup of ashes (and oil does produce ashes) that help to rot out the galvanized steel, which is making it soft.

Until you can reduce and straighten out the pipe run, have the stovepipes cleaned out regularly. A stainless-steel stovepipe would last a lot longer, but I don't want to even think of the cost; and even at that, the pipe would have to be cleaned out often.

Try to get the furnace closer to the chimney to cut the run in half and reduce the turns to a minimum of two. An alternative is a new chimney going up the middle of the house, or an oil-fired power-vented burner, which does not need a chimney, but still has to be vented outdoors, and since the furnace is now in the middle of the basement, this is not going to work without great expense.

As for the water heater pipe, it's a short run without excessive turns, so it should be OK.

As for the bad smell, if it is in the house, it may be due to a cracked or broken heat exchanger in the furnace. In that case, the fumes are deadly and the furnace needs replacement. If the odor is in the basement, it may mean that the smokepipe has dropped off the furnace (it happens) and fumes are going directly into the basement.

And, any ashes in the smokepipe could smell really awful. Worse if they get wet.

Q.One of my old faucets leaks at the core, and in trying to fix it I broke off the handle. Where can I find a replacement; they are pretty old.

A. You might try Renovators Supply for a new faucet and/or handle. They make quite a variety of old-fashioned ones. Call 800-659-2211, 7 a.m. to midnight.

Q. I am getting a few water stains on the ceiling below an upstairs bathroom. Obviously something is leaking, but where, and how can I find out where, and fix it? There is a tub-shower in that upstairs bathroom, with a one-handle control.

CHARLES BLEND, Randolph

A. There are a number of possibilities, most of which are easy to fix (maybe), and one of which is miserable to fix. The first thing is to check that those who use the shower put the curtain inside the tub, not outside.

Second, check the one-handle control valve and the tub spigot. Make sure they are well caulked; shower water can get behind the valve and the spigot and run down onto the ceiling. Take off the valve cover and inspect where the pipe goes through the wall; the pipe should be well caulked. The same goes for the tub spigot; unscrew it and check for caulking; if there is none, install some.

Third, check the grout or caulking between tub and tile; grout or caulking should be sound. If not, regrout or recaulk.

Fourth, and this is the miserable one: the tub drain. The only way to check that is to take down some of the ceiling below (that's the wretched part; then turn on the shower or tub and let it drain to see if the drain itself is leaking). It is unlikely that any water supply pipes are leaking; if they were, you'd have a lot more stains on the ceiling.

Q. My friend's oil tank developed a leak, and when it was discovered and fixed, the cleanup cost $20,000. That is why I am converting to gas. Is this economically feasible, at least to give me peace of mind? If I convert to gas, it will cost $300 to remove the tank. If I don't convert, it will cost $1,000 to replace the tank.

V.G., Somerville

A. Peace of mind (not having to worry about an oil tank leaking, or needing replacement) will make your conversion economically feasible. Gas is more expensive than oil, but that is something you will have to accept.

Q. My old house, converted years ago from a cottage, has a real Rube Goldberg smoke pipe going from the furnace in the middle of the basement to the chimney on an outside wall. The pipe comes out 5 inches, then goes 20 inches vertical, then goes 33 inches horizontal, then turns to go 8 feet 7 inches to a ``T'' adapter and 22 inches into the chimney. Another pipe for the water heater goes another 7 feet to that ``T.'' The pipe feels soft. Although the smokepipe was replaced, I am concerned that it will happen again. Is there a way to reduce the run and all those turns? Both the furnace and the water heater are oil-fired. The basement is mostly ledge, so I can't move the furnace very far. There is also a bad smell.

A.A., Billerica

A. Whooey, that is a real Rube Goldberg affair. The long run (about 15 feet) is too long for a smokepipe, and all those turns (I count at least five) aggravate the problem not only by reducing the flow of gases but allowing a buildup of ashes (and oil does produce ashes) that help to rot out the galvanized steel, which is making it soft.

Until you can reduce and straighten out the pipe run, have the stovepipes cleaned out regularly. A stainless-steel stovepipe would last a lot longer, but I don't want to even think of the cost; and even at that, the pipe would have to be cleaned out often.

Try to get the furnace closer to the chimney to cut the run in half and reduce the turns to a minimum of two. An alternative is a new chimney going up the middle of the house, or an oil-fired power-vented burner, which does not need a chimney, but still has to be vented outdoors, and since the furnace is now in the middle of the basement, this is not going to work without great expense.

As for the water heater pipe, it's a short run without excessive turns, so it should be OK.

As for the bad smell, if it is in the house, it may be due to a cracked or broken heat exchanger in the furnace. In that case, the fumes are deadly and the furnace needs replacement. If the odor is in the basement, it may mean that the smokepipe has dropped off the furnace (it happens) and fumes are going directly into the basement.

And, any ashes in the smokepipe could smell really awful. Worse if they get wet.

Q. I get some strange vibration in the pipes when the toilet is flushed and shuts off. It's really more like a fast rattle. How can I trace the pipe and stop the noise? The pipe is partly accessible.

JOE KENNEY, Brockton

A. Chances are that the pipes are loose, and when they vibrate they bang against a wood stud or anything else in the way, hence the rattle. This vibration could also occur with simple flow of water through the pipes.

The fix is to secure the pipes, and to do that you need access to them. Tighten them in their hangers, and if there are no hangers, install some. Don't make the pipes too tight in their hangers; this could cause more problems. Just snug is acceptable, and you could also insert a semisoft rubber gasket between pipes and hangers, further dampening the vibration.

I suspect that there is a long vertical run of some of the pipes in the wall where they are not secured, aggravating the problem.

If securing the pipes where you can doesn't work, you will have to bite the bullet and open up the wall to get to the loose pipe.

Q. One of my copper water pipes is leaking in the basement. Is there a way to stop it without replacing the pipe?

RANDIE MARGOLIS, Newton

A. Possibly. Hardware and building supply stores sell kits consisting of a rubber-type slit tube with a metal cover that can be tightened by a couple of screws provided. Wrap it around the pipe and tighten. Some kits provide clamps that will tighten the tube. The clamps are a little like an auto radiator hose clamp, tightened by turning a bolt. These kits have been known to work for years.

Q. My heating pipes are embedded in a concrete floor. So are some of the plumbing pipes, or at least they are under the concrete floor. Now I am getting what look like small earthworms in the toilet. What is happening?

F.F., Reading

A. It sounds as if the drain leading from the toilet under the concrete to the main sewer is broken, and leaking. Earthworms are somehow going upstream to the toilet. I didn't ask, but I assume the worms are dead. The drain must be inspected, and to do so, it is likely that the concrete has to be broken up, which is a problem because of the heating pipes in the floor. A plumber or plumbing contractor should be able to help you.

Q. I have a slab ranch-style house with heating pipes in the slab. Two years ago, the domestic water pipes were rerouted to run across the attic floor, and last week they froze for the first time, despite insulation and heat tape on the pipes.

The plumber suggested three options: Relocate the pipes under the joists so they are next to the ceiling and covered with insulation; add a layer of insulation to the attic floor, covering the pipes; or, cover just the pipes with insulation. What is best?

K.K., Framingham

A. All three options are good. I think relocating the pipes is best, although most expensive. Adding insulation to the entire floor, especially over the pipes, is second best, with a bonus that the extra insulation will save heat, too, although you said the heating bills already are low.

So I would go for No. 2. And you can keep the pipe insulation and heat tape on if you like, but if the added insulation is enough, and snugly and completely applied, you may not need the heat tape. In all cases of insulation, the insulating material must cover the pipes snugly and completely, with no open joints or missed areas. Those missed spots may be where the pipes go into the attic or into the house. Any small opening exposed to the cold could cause the pipes to freeze.

Q. The drain valve on my hot water heater is closed and I can't get it open. I've been opening it every four or five months, but have not done it for a year. How can I get it open?

G.B., Brighton

A. Have a plumber do it; he is less likely to break or bend a pipe while trying. You might not need the plumber anyway, because in many cases it doesn't matter if you don't drain the tank a little, occasionally.

Q. My carriage house was converted 40 years ago into living quarters, with a water pipe leading from the house to the carriage house. Recently the pipe burst and I had to shut off the water. The pipe is buried 4 feet into the ground. How can I install a new pipe that won't break?

R.L., Cambridge

A. Everything was done right 40 years ago -- a pipe 4 feet into the ground is under the frost line. I don't think it froze; it just wore out after 40 years. It could have been a galvanized pipe rather than copper, but even copper doesn't last forever.

When you install the new pipe, pay particular attention to where it comes into the carriage house; if it is too close to the foundation, it could freeze. You could encase it in a compressed fiberglass insulation sleeve, but I don't think that is really necessary, and that is possible only if you dig a trench 4 feet deep to put the new pipe in.

Q. The pipe leading from my sump pump goes straight up, then through the foundation to the outside, then into a black flex hose. It's pretty long in order to deliver the water far enough away from the house, but it doesn't drain very well when the pump shuts off. Water that stays in it then freezes. How can I make the pipe drain completely?

JOHN McKAY, Francistown, N.H.

A. Replace the flex pipe with a rigid PVC pipe, and slope it down from where it comes out of the foundation. You should get automatic and complete drainage that way.

Q. Both the faucets in my shower valve are leaking, and I can't get any hot water. How can I fix it?

BILL BROWN, Saugus

A. Sounds as if something is wrong with the cartridges. If you can pull the cartridges out, take them to a plumbing supply shop for replacement. And make sure they are designed for individual faucets -- hot and cold. If you get no hot water, it might be because the hot-water cartridge is defective or there is a cold-water cartridge in its place.

Q. There is a cleanout plug in the four-inch iron pipe in my basement that leads to the septic tank. It's a brass hexagonal plug screwed into a brass fitting. I mashed the plug trying to take it off. Any way to take it out now so I can clean out the drain?

VICTOR BANEVICIUS, Westborough

A. There might be, doing it as auto mechanics do to back out a bolt that has lost its head or has a messed up screw slot. Spray some pentrating oil into the threads of the plug. Place a sharp cold chisel on one side of the plug and tap lightly, counterclockwise. Chances are the plug moves counterclockwise and tapping might get it started. The chisel will dig into the soft brass and will stay in place, usually, when you tap. If no go, you may have to drill it out, but make sure you can find, or have a substitute the right size. Does the drain really need cleaning? I suppose it may if the flow is sluggish, but I'd also have the tank pumped out, which may allow the drain to clear itself.

Q. My tub drains very slowly -- five to 10 minutes. No other drains in the house are slow. I've tried baking soda and vinegar, and hot water, without success. I even took off the stopper lever at the end of the tub and cleaned it thoroughly. I am stumped.

SUSAN BARRETT North Attleborough

A. Slow drains are usually caused by a buildup of grease, oil, hair, and other detritus that reduces the diameter of the drain. The cure is to use a plumber's snake to break up the gunk so it will flow away. The snake will also remove any other kind of obstruction. The baking soda and vinegar might help some, but it is a long, slow process. Better to use is straight bleach; put a cup of it down the drain and let it sit in the trap for an hour or so, then turn on the water to get the bleach farther down the drain. An enzyme-based drain cleaner may be more effective than bleach.

A plumber's snake, by the way, is a long, flexible rod of flat wire with a hook on one end and a crank handle on the other; turn the crank as you thread the snake down the drain so it will do maximum good in breaking up and removing the detritus. You can put the snake in the drain opening (remove the strainer cover first). Or, it might be easier to remove the stopper mechanism and put the snake in that opening.