p.K., Burlington

A. On the outside glass. Drilling the holes will not break the seal of the windows because the seal already has been broken, allowing water vapor into the space between glass panes where it condenses. This addition of holes will not cause any loss of heat, and will not affect excessively the insulative value of the window.

I don't blame you for getting tired of replacing expensive windows whenever they become foggy. The trouble with double-glazed windows is that if anything goes wrong, you cannot replace the glass yourself. In the good old days of single-glazed windows and storms, you could put in a new piece of glass and have a good time (maybe) doing it.

Q. My old-fashioned alarm system involves wires cemented to little patches set on the windows. The system blew and I am getting rid of it, and have cut the wires leading to the windows. But I can't get the patches off the window glass, which are the size of Scrabble tiles. I tried Goof-Off without success. What will work?

M.T., Cambridge

A. Try a hair dryer to get the adhesive warm, then pry with a chisel or putty knife. Or, acetone (nail-polish remover), or typewriter cleaning fluid. Or, ordinary oil of any kind. With the acetone and oil, apply it to the top of the tile in the hopes that it will get between tile and glass and dissolve a little of the adhesive, enough so the tile can be pried off. And, the oil can sit on top of the tile for any length of time, allowing it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

Q. I have 14 replacement windows that have become pitted, on the inside. I live in Nahant and get plenty of salt spray, but this pitting is on the inside. The window representative suggested using ``some kind of solution,'' which isn't much of a help. My neighbors' windows, similar to the ones I have, are not pitting, inside or outside. What can I do?

JACK VALERI, Nahant

A. If the windows are pitting on the inside, and the pitting you can actualy feel, then I think they are defective, and should be replaced gratis by the manufacturer. Actual pitting (etching of a sort) cannot be fixed, in my experience.

If the pitting cannot be felt, maybe it is just discoloration. If so, try this: 1. Wash with equal parts white vinegar and water, or straight white vinegar. 2. Wash with a damp sponge rubbed on a bar of Bon Ami. 3. Use Lime-Away, or Zud, sold in supermarkets.

There is a relatively new window cleaner on the market called Clear Vue. I have not seen it, but it is made by the Lawrence Plate and Window Glass Co. Call them to see where you can get it. It is supposed to be the be-all and end-all of window cleaners; its contents are proprietary, so you cannot reproduce it at home.

Q. I am replacing the weighted window sash in my house with new double hung sash, and will fill the weight pockets, and am ready to prime and paint. I would normally paint all sides, surfaces and edges, but I understandthat I should not paint the vertical edges, where the windows run in grooves in the jamb. If I should not paint the edges, what can I do with them?

JACK CAHILL, Brockton

A. Leave the edges plain, untreated wood. This will allow better movement of the sash up and down, reducing friction and keeping the sash the right size. Painting not only widens the sash (very little, but it can be enough to inerfere with its function), but also sometimes uncured or not completely dry paint can make things much worse. But here is one thing you can do: rub the edges thoroughly with wax. This will not only reduce friction but also help prevent moisture from entering the wood and swelling the sash.

In addition to the face of the sash (indoors and out), don't forget to paint the top and bottom edges of each sash and the check rail, where the two sash meet.

Q. You have mentioned drilling holes in a double-glazed window to eliminate the fogging. But how are the holes drilled in glass, how big should they be, and where? Will the drilling of the holes clear up the windows, or does something else need to be done?

JUDY ATKINSON, Wrentham

A. OK, how to drill: Black & Decker makes a bit specifically for ceramic tile and glass; it would be best to use a bit designed for the job, although a regular bit can work. The holes should be about one-eighth inch, one in each bottom corner, about two inches away from the corner.

Drilling the holes allows air to circulate in the cavity, and might clear up the glass, but it is possible that there will be no clearing. In that case, stick a Water Pic in one of the holes and spray the inside with water. This usually works. If nothing clears up the glass, drill two more holes at each top corner.

And a word of warning: If the window is a floor-to-ceiling window, or a slider, or a French door, it is made of tempered glass, required by law in situations where a window or door might be walked into. Tampering with this glass will cause it to explode, startling the worker, but probably not harming his body because the pieces of glass are dull-edged and have very little cutting power.

Q. I'm having a terrible time with the windows in the north-facing gable end of my house. Water is coming in at the top of the window and into the space between the window and the storm, but not in the house. I had the frames caulked without success. What can I do?

MIKE SHAPIRO, Newton

A. It sounds as if there is no flashing on top of the window frames. Aluminum flashing is required there to allow water to run over the top of the frame and down the face of the frame rather then behind it. It's a simple matter in new construction, but tougher on old, because one part of the flashing has to be tucked under the siding (shingles or clapboards), the other part folded over the frame itself. Caulking there does little or no good. And, more wind-blown rain will hit the gable and windows because they face north, vulnerable to northeasters and other storms from that direction.

There are two other possible causes for the leaks. One is the caulking around the storm window; if it has deteriorated or dried out, water may be getting behind the aluminum frame, where it is screwed to the wood frame. Recaulking along that joint will do no good. The cure is to remove the storm, scrape off old caulking, and recaulk the wood frame, around the opening, before reapplying the storm. The storm will press against the fresh caulking, making a watertight seal.

The other cause is the position of the storm sash in the frame. Normally the top sash of the storm is in the outer groove of the frame, the bottom sash in the inner groove. These stormsashes are in the same position as the regular double-hung window: The outer sash is on top, the inner sash on the bottom. If the storm sash were the other way around, it would act as a scoop for cold air and water.

Q. Some of the glass in very old metal storm windows has broken and I can't get them out to have them fixed. There are no levers to release the sash; they apparently are friction-fit and they are really stuck. How can I get them out, and is it worth having them fixed?

P.S., Brookline

A. They might be worth saving; top-grade replacement storms are quite expensive, about $100 each. Lubricate the sash with a spray lubricant, such as WD-40, until you can raise the sash easily. Raise the bottom sash just an inch or 2 to clear the groove at the bottom and in which the sash is sitting. Then pull out and down.

If pulling out and down doesn't work, you might have to unscrew the frames from the wood casing and release them that way.

Q. The crank mechanisms in some of my 30-year-old casement windows are broken. The windows are still in good shape, so I don't have to replace them; if only I can find mechanism replacements. I tried Renovators Supply without success.

B.B., Belmont

A. You might try any of the large building supply stores. Take the mechanism off the window and bring it to the store so you can get a match. Such stores do carry various types of casement window mechanism including the swing-out arms typical of such windows.

If a trip to the building store doesn't help, call P. J. Spillane Co. in Everett; it specializes in window hardware and parts. The telephone number is 389-6200.

Q. I am installing wood casement windows in the kitchen, except they are 2 1/2 inches wider than the old ones. How can I make the openings wider?

B.L., Arlington

A. Obviously you will have to remove a stud on each side of the rough opening. Such rough openings have, or should have, doubled studs on each side, so you might be able to leave one in place. This could be tricky, and the better part of valor is to check with an architect or engineer to make sure you can do it and how. It might turn out that you will have to rebuild the opening.

Or, how about this: Return the windows and buy ones the right size, if possible. If you have to get windows smaller, you could always add a stud or thin board and nail it to the stud to make the opening smaller.

Q. I am installing wood casement windows in the kitchen, except they are 2 1/2 inches wider than the old ones. How can I make the openings wider?

B.L., Arlington

A. Obviously you will have to remove a stud on each side of the rough opening. Such rough openings have, or should have, doubled studs on each side, so you might be able to leave one in place. This could be tricky, and the better part of valor is to check with an architect or engineer to make sure you can do it and how. It might turn out that you will have to rebuild the opening.

Or, how about this: Return the windows and buy ones the right size, if possible. If you have to get windows smaller, you could always add a stud or thin board and nail it to the stud to make the opening smaller.

Q. The hardware in the casement windows of my 1935 Tudor house is broken. I found someone who said he'd fix the hardware, then stole it, so now I am without any hardware. Where can I find parts for this type of window?

B.J., Brookline

A. Try firms specializing in window hardware: P.J. Spillane Co. of Everett, (617) 389-6200; or Four Seasons of Reading, (617) 944-6388.

Q. I found some old aluminum storm windows in my basement. Are they OK to use as storms? Can I use silicone caulk to install them?

A.S., South Boston

A. Yes, any aluminum storm window, intact, can be used if it fits. And silicone caulk is a good caulk to use for installation. The caulk goes on the facing of the casing all around the opening, then the storm is applied and screwed on. The storm will press down on the caulking as it is installed, making an airtight, weatherproof seal.

Those storms may not be very tight otherwise but they will do quite a bit of good in reducing the loss of heat. They were probably removed when replacement windows were installed, and someone had sense enough to save them. Window people might say you don't need a storm when you install double-glazed replacement windows, but why not? It will add an extra layer of glass, adding a bit of insulation to the house. We can always use an extra bit of insulation.

One problem you might run into: Sometimes replacement windows have wider frames than the original, and when storms are applied, there may not be enough room to remove the glass and screen sash of the storm. The storm sash is usually removed only for washing, so if you run into this problem, you can always wash them in position, happy in the thought that you have extra insulation on your windows, and that the storms are not going to waste.

Q. My new double-hung vinyl windows, the tilt-in type, are hard to raise and lower. How can I loosen them? Would a dry lube help?

JACK MARTIN, Belmont

A. WD40 or silicone lube might work; spray it on the jamb where the window moves. The oil won't hurt the vinyl, but be sure to wipe off excess lube with a dry cloth; left on the surface, the material will attract dirt. If the windows are too tight in their jambs, a drylube is unlikely to work. Abnd if it doesn't, you might be able to adjust the springs. And even this won't help if the sash are too tight. If the window is new, the manufacturer or the installer should adjust the springs and free them up for free.

Windows are a big pain, in my opinion. They have to be tight enough so they won't leak air. They have to be loose enough so they will move. So a compromise is reached; not too tight and not too loose. As with most compromises, it doesn't work very well.

Q. I bought some Andersen casement windows at Home Depot to replace some old ones. I discovered screws missing from the arm mechanism where it attaches to the frame. I can see the holes where the screws should go, but I can't get to them because the stop molding partially covers them. So I called Home Depot who referred me to Brockway-Smith (the distributor) who referred me to Andersen. Andersen said they would send me the screws but I would have to put them in. Isn't that avoiding the warranty? Is there anything I can do about it?

BYRON ROSEMAN, Chelmsford

A. It isn't the cost of the screws but the principle, and the avoiding of responsibility with the offer of a couple of screws. It's like a physician who gives you a diagnosis and tells you to make your own cure.

Also, passing the buck to the consumer is not going to do much for the reputation of Andersen, Brockway-Smith, and Home Depot.

I rather doubt there is much you can do. You could lay the ``law'' down to Andersen, which has been known to come right out to a person's house to make adjustments to windows. After all, Andersen is the warrantor, and as such should do anything needed. The smallness of your problem may be keeping Andersen from making a house call, but it still isn't right. Maybe a polite letter from your lawyer would move them. You could contact the attorney general's office of consumer affairs, or file a costly suit. But in the end, I suggest you bite the bullet, remove the stop trim, and install the screws yourself.

The handyman replaced the arm mechanism on one of his Andersen windows (no warranty involved), and had to remove the stop trim to get to the screws holding the old arm in place. And guess what? He split the trim. But after installing the new arm, he glued the trim and put it back; no one noticed.

Such a window design is not good, and I think in some of the newer casements the screws are more accessible. Just be careful prying up that trim.

Q. When I had a new window put in my bathroom to replace one that was hopelessly sticky, I discovered the new sash is thinner than the old, so there is a gap between the sash and the inside sill when the window is closed. How can I fill it? The contractor said he would weatherstrip the bottom of the sash for airtightness and trim the sill to fit. Will that work?

TOM O'NEAL, North Andover

A. It sure will, and the contractor should have done that without being told. You could do it yourself, slipping in a narrow piece of trim and nailing it to the sill. The window will be tight and no one will know the difference.

Q. I would like to find some transom window latches like those on windows in old schools. Do you know where I might get some?

CHARLES MARTIN, West Peabody

A. Let's put it this way: I know where they are listed in catalogs, and since the handyman never throws anything away, I found transom catches in two catalogs: Stanley and Lawrence; they look the same, a catch with a loop on one part that can be operated by a window pole. To find where these catches are sold, call Stanley at 860-225-5111, or Lawrence at 815-625-0360, or a Lawrence distributor, C. A. Cunningham Co. of Charelestown, 617-242-7651.

If you are thinking of the latches in the form of a rod with a locking knob for holding the window in a set position, the handyman came up empty.

Q. My son's house has window wells, but they stick out 24 inches from the house and the standard plastic bubble covers come only in 16- and 18-inch depths. What else can be used over these holes so that rain and debris do not collect? Does anyone custom-make these covers?

ELAINE MYERS, Chelmsford

A. Your son could make his own window-well covers, using a wood frame, say, of 2 x 2s and acrylic or Plexiglas plastic, hinged to the wall. He may have to build up the sides of the well itself so that the cover slopes, but that's no problem. He could tack a strip of rubber or other flexible flashing over the hinged side to prevent water from getting in that joint. Any slight leaking that would occur without flashing is insignificant.

Or, yes, you can order them from a custom maker if you provide specifications and dimensions. Write to or call Dilworth Manufacturing Co., Box 158, Honey Brook, PA 19344; telephone 717-354-8956.

Q. My 4-by-4-foot double-glazed window is fogging up, after having sprung a leak, after 30 years. Would it be possible to cut out one of the layers of glass so I can keep it clean?

L.C., Peabody

A. If it started fogging up after 30 years, I'd say it certainly has served you well, although a single-glazed window can last indefinitely; 30 years is nothing to such a window. But before you cut out a whole glass area, try this: Drill a hole in the outside glass, one in each bottom corner a few inches away from the edge. This might allow air to circulate and clear the glass. Just for the heck of it, you can drill holes at the top corners, as well. Glass is not easy to drill holes in, so practice first on a scrap piece.

Before you try this, make darned sure the glass is not tempered glass; if it is, it will explode if you try to drill into it or cut it. Tempered glass is used mostly in sliders and French doors, storm doors, sidelights and other places where the glass goes from ceiling to floor, or nearly so, with a danger that it could be walked into.

If you break the glass trying to drill a hole through it, you can always cut out the whole pane, making the windows a single-glazed one.

spring-loaded windows
People seem to having quite a bit of trouble keeping their spring-loaded winwows up because the springs have lost their tension, or keeping up windows that have no springs or weight balances at all.

The standard way is to cut a short board and stick it under the sash. Easy, but not to everyone's liking.

Stan Pittman of Shelburne came up with a better idea, albeit an old-fashioned one. He called to tell us that he made a little wood cam (a sort of oval shape) and screwed it loosely on the frame of the sash, right next to the jamb.

This cam moves to allow the window sash to be raised, but tightens up tenaciously when the window is released, keeping it from going down again. To lower the sash, he just pivots the cam a little.

Ingenious, Stan Pittman, and thanks. The Handyman is aware of these cams, but a search of catalogs and other sources came up empty. So, if anyone wants to use those cams, he may have to make them himself.

Q. The tenants just left the rental unit of my two-family house, and I discovered several ropes broken in the windows. Who should I contact to fix them? One man suggested that I use chains instead of ropes when I replace them. Is this correct? Can any insulation be put in the space where the weights go up and down?

E.S., Brighton

A. Find a handyman or carpenter, but the man who suggested you use chains instead of ropes has a point because chains will last longer than ropes; in fact, indefinitely. Be sure to get solid brass sash chain. Those weighted windows are the best you can get, in my opinion, because there are no springs to fail. One disadvantage is that you cannot fill the weight pockets with insulation because that would render the weights inoperable. The small loss of heat through the weight pockets is compensated by the quality of the windows.

Q. I had new vinyl windows installed, and I would like to put the storm windows back on, to provide triple glazing. I was told that the caulking will start to melt and the windows will warp. It seems a big waste of good storm windows. Should I do it?

B.B., Hanson

A. If vinyl windows could warp under a storm window, it does not say much for vinyl windows. After all, your original windows surivived under storms, and maybe that indicates that you didn't need replacement windows. It sounds similar to the taboo against putting a storm door over a steel insulated door; excessive heat buildup will warp the plastic trim on the steel doors.

And maybe the great world of plastics has not lived up to its ballyhoo.

But I suggest this: Put up some of the storms, and make sure there are eighth-of-an-inch inch weep holes in the frame at the bottom (they should already be there), and add two holes in the top frame. These vent holes will not reduce the insulative value of the storms, but may allow enough air circulation to keep down the heat.

Q. I have a window in the tub area of my bathroom. I hate plastic curtains, which seem to be the only solution for keeping that window from getting soaked during showers. Is there any other solution that would work?

KEITH DINSMOOR, Braintree

A. There are certainly solutions, but not necessarily ones that would work for you. But what the heck, here they are:

1. Take out the window and wall in the opening. Properly done, this walling in is invisible. But it will work only if you install an exhaust fan venting to the outdoors.

2. Take out the windows and put in one with glass blocks. It will provide light and be watertight, but this installation would also require an exhaust fan.

3. Paint the window and frame with Zinsser's Perma-White Mildew-Proof bathroom paint. It claims to resist mildew for up to five years and to go over virtually any old painted surface.

4. Despite your aversion to plastic curtains, consider a new one anyway. The new shower curtains and matched window curtains are quite soft and remain that way; they can be quite attractive, some with patterns, and are not the old-fasioned plastic that gets stiff and unmanageable with age.

Q. The seals in the thermal (double-glazed) windows keep breaking on my summer house in Hull. Can I reseal them? I was told that double-glazed windows are not warranted near the water.

Y.D., Boston

A. You cannot reseal the glass, but some people have fixed the fogging problem this way: They drill eighth-inch holes in the outside glass near each bottom corner, allowing air to circulate and the fogging to evaporate. Maybe.

Drilling holes in glass is tricky, but possible, especially if you use a bit specifically designed for glass and ceramic tile. Do not do this if you have any doubts.

And definitely don't try it on tempered glass, which will literally explode if you try drilling it. Tempered glass is usually labeled as such and is used in sliders and other areas where the window or door starts at the floor, or can be walked into. It is a safety factor; if you run or walk into the glass (inadvertently, of course), it will break into harmless, dull-edged shards rather than sharp, sword-like strips of glass.

Otherwise, replace the sash, the frame that holds the glass, and the glass. If the glass is less than 10 years old, you might get a free replacement. Check the dealer or manufacturer, if you can find either one.

And if thermal glass is indeed taboo near the water, install single-glazed windows and quality storms. You will get nearly the same insulating value. While they might be ``old-fashioned,'' they will last 50 years or more with no fogging, no haggling, no fussing and no bother. And no need for a warranty, near the water or not.

Q. I have a funny situation on my 29-year-old storm windows. When I went to put them down for the winter, I discovered a bunch of straw in the grooves on both sides of the window. The straw is really quite tightly wedged into the grooves. What's going on?

D.K., Westwood

A. It's because the storms are loose in their grooves. The same goes for the screen. In summer, the wind blows, picks up chaff such as dried grass clippings, and blows it every which way, including into the joints of the windows. The old windows also tend to bend inward when the wind blows, making the joints even bigger for that chaff to enter.

There is no cost-effective cure, so live with it, and dig out the chaff with a screwdriver as you adjust the storms and screens. It is less likely for chaff to collect in winter.

If cost is not a factor, buy new, tight storms. One of the best in my opinion and experience is True Channel, made by Harvey Industries. These storms are airtight with the grooves being U-shaped rather than L-shaped, for extra tightnesss; and when the window blows, the joints do not expand.

Q. My ranch house has one cellar window, and wouldn't you know, it is below the ground level with a window well. I had a drain put in from the well to the street, and water still fills it up and comes in the window like a waterfall. How can I keep the water out?

E.T., Stoneham

A. You could try digging a trench in front of the window well and leading away about 10 feet from the house; this could bring rain water down the slope more than you think.

Another trick is to decrease the rough opening and put in a smaller window, or better yet, glass blocks, with a vent; the glass blocks for light, the vent for ventilation. If the bottom of the window is a few inches higher, then any water that collects in the well might not come in; and if it tries to, the glass blocks are waterproof. Look in the Yellow Pages under ``Glass Blocks.'' And, put a cover over the well.

Q. My double-hung wood windows are about 15 years old, with plastic jambs that hold a spring. Now some of the top sashes won't stay up. I noticed there are holes in the bottom of the top sash, one on each side. Can I adjust the springs so the window will stay up where it belongs?

EARL MARTIN, Centerville

A. The springs have lost some of their tension, which is a common occurrence with windows of this type and age, although springs can lose their tension anytime. The springs are in those holes that you noticed. With luck, you can pull the spring down and turn it clockwise to tighten its tension. If that doesn't work, you might be able to get a replacement spring called Spyrex (distributed by Brockway-Smith), but they are only for single-thick glass windows. Or you can buy replacement jambs that tilt in for easy washing. They are also distributed by Brockway-Smith.

The general experience with loose spiral springs is that they are a real pain in the neck to tighten and/ or replace, according to questions the Handyman has received over the years.

Q. I'm looking for inside storm windows made of glass. I do not want acrylic or any other kind of plastic. Where can I get them?

SHEILA CHERKAS, Chelsea

A. There are two outfits that I know of: Panel Air Corp. in Brockton (781-588-8900); and Innerglass of Simsbury, Conn. (800-743-6207, 860-651-3951).

Your preference for glass is well understood. In my opinion, plastic does not stand up well either in place on the inside of a window or in storage; it can scratch, discolor, and get foggy, and does not clean well. Glass will stand up to anything except a hard blow, will virtually never scratch, and will look sparkling and new every time it is washed.

Recently, Debbie Onie of Brookline called to ask about a sporadic leak that was plaguing her condo; water was leaking from a shower stall from a unit above her, but it happened only four or so times a year.

We replied that it could be a leaking shower pan, a leaking drain, or something ``mysterious.'' The infrequency of the leak was the confusing part of it all.

M.A.G. of Littleton called to tell us of her problem, which was similar to Debbie's and equally sporadic.

``The plumber put a block of wood 2 x 4 under the drain pipe when he installed the shower pan to try to support it so it would not move when when the shower was being used. As a result, the shower pan moved but the drain did not, causing the leak.

``We broke through the ceiling, kicked out the 2 x 4, and it never leaked again.''

Thank you, M.A.G. Your solution is another one in the great and mysterious realm of plumbing.

Q. The painter who is painting my house said that he could paint all the vinyl windows, which are the new style with a border of just 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide. The trim is gray-green, and the painter said painting the vinyl that color would help tie in the window frames with the trim. Should vinyl windows be painted?

T.D., Jamaica Plain

A. No, no, a thousand times no! In fact, the instructions that come with vinyl windows, or vinyl-clad windows, warn against painting vinyl. It is not that vinyl cannot be painted, but it does not need to be. Vinyl or PVC can be painted, but it would be iffy at best; it must be sanded heavily, then painted with two coats of a latex house paint. You run the risk of peeling, and if the gray-green peels, the contrast with the white vinyl under the paint will make a bigger mess than you have now. Some of the new windows have a very narrow casing, as you said (1 to 1 1/2 inches), and are a terrible design for a traditonal house, looking like lidless eyes starting out at you. They might be OK in a contemporary house, and are no maintenance at all, but they don't work in a traditional design. The handyman put one in his house and, instead of letting it be, put an extra bit of casing around it to match windows already in place. That ihe case, it's a good idea to get rid of the paint, but only if some of the brick is being sloughed off. This won't happen with concrete or concrete blocks, so keep the paint, especially since it is not peeling; it might be cement-based paint, which is the best thing you can put on concrete or concrete block because it penetrates concrete, fills pores, and makes the material water resistant. If eventually it starts to peel, then the best thing you can do is to wire-brush it to get as much off as possible, then let the rest peel over the next few years and continue to wire brush. With all the paint off, do not repaint. Concrete and concrete blocks are straight-forward, honest materials that do not need gussing up. A good case of painting concrete when it doesn't need it is Weymouth North High School (now Weymouth High), a series of ultra-contemporary buildings with a lot of exposed concrete. The buildings are interesting, even handsome, but someone had the concrete painted. It peeled, creating an ugly sight and requiring a continuous repainting chore.

Q. The seal of some of my double-glazed windows has broken, fogging the windows, which are 15 years old. The dealer is out of business. Is there a way to replace those sashes?

TRACY SLUICER, Millis

A. The dealer might be out of business, but is the manufacturer? The windows are out of warranty, but if you can determine the manufacturer, it could provide just the sash for a fee, but at least the sash would be the same. If not, any replacement window company should be able to find a sash that is a similar style and fits properly.

Here's more information on getting ballpoint ink out of a shirt. One caller asked about that recently, and the handyman suggested using rubbing alcohol to get it out. Worse yet, the ink got smeared on the dryer drum. Alcohol will also remove that, the handyman suggested. Here is how Kate Superti of Saugus handled it: ``Aerosol hair spray did it,'' she said, but it has to be a spray, not the pump. ``I guess it was the speed of the hair spray that helped. Then soak and launder. It took two or three applications, and the streaks of ink on the dryer drum eventually came out, probably by wear and tear.'' Good point, Karen Superti, and thanks. Hair spray contains alcohol, but the fact that it hit the stain hard from the spray is a new one on the handyman, who will make due note of it.

Tobey Elkin of Winthrop had the same problem, with the ink in a lab coat, and more ink smeared on the dryer drum. The ink came off the lab coat, with effort, Elkin said, but ``I let it wear off the dryer drum. It took six months to a year.'' And thank you, Tobey Elkin. One thing about the ink on the dryer drum. In all cases, it did not rub off on the clothes being dried.

Q. I plan to replace some windows and would like to replace just the movable sash, not the whole window, frame and all, because to do each full window would be too expensive. However, some of the sills on the windows are bad, with some decayed areas. Can I do anything with those sills?

PAUL BELL, Stoughton

A. You sure can, and I agree that replacing only the movable sash is the way to go. Makers of replacement windows also feel that way. If the decay is not too extensive, you can chip out the decayed wood and fill the gaps with an epoxy wood filler, made just for this purpose; it is sold in hardware and building supply stores. By the way, treat the chipped-out areas with bleach before putting in the epoxy; this will kill any remaining fungus, which causes the decay.

If the decay is more severe, you might be able to cut it out and screw in a replacement board carved to fit the opening. And if the sill is beyond repair, you can replace it with a new sill, then put in the replacement sash. It's a little tricky to take out a bad sill and replace it, and it is fussy work, but possible for the patient do-it-yourselfer. How to do it: Raise the lower sash, remove the inside sill and other sections of wood that hold the old sash in place. Cut the sill right through the middle, so you can pry and push and pull the two pieces out; it will take some doing because you have to pull the pieces from their nails. Once it is out, cut off any dangling nails (there will be several) with a hacksaw.

Buy a new sill, and use the old one as a template to cut the new one to the same size and shape. The new sill will be thinner than the old. So, before putting in the new sill, nail a shim, a thin piece of wood, to the 2 x 4 that the old sill was sitting on. When you insert the new sill, it will be tight, and in the right position. Nail the new sill to the 2 x 4. You cannot attach it to the jamb (vertical pieces in the opening), as the old one was, but this does not matter.

Put back the interior sill and you are ready to put in the replacement sash. Just the movable sash, which may cost $200 to $250 for two, compared with $500 to $1,000 for a whole new window.

Q. My ancient house has three roll-up screens that fit inside on the window sills on brackets. Where can I get them replaced or fixed?

P.M., Milton

A. There are two places you can try: ENS of Newton, at 781-964-2750, sells awnings, window treatments, shutters, interior and exterior storms and thermal shades.

Old-fashioned roll screens, ones that roll up behind a casement window, are made in California; a distributor is Triple A Custom Door & Screen in Cambridge. Call 617-492-1516.

Q. Nearly half the putty is gone from my windows, so I have to reglaze. Do I have to remove all the putty that is there? I used one of those Putty Chasers, an attachment on my drill to chip off the putty, but I am gouging too much wood. What am I doing wrong?

DANA HANSEN, South Hamilton

A. If the putty that remains on the sash is secure, and resists hand-chiseling or scraping, you don't have to remove it. And, when you are ready to reglaze, apply boiled linseed oil to the wood; this will keep the wood from pulling oils out of the glazing compound and make the compound last much longer.

As for the Putty Chaser, I think you might be holding it at a slight up or down angle. The chaser's router-type blade is mounted on a guide sleeve that keeps the blade away from the glass, but it must be held at a 90-degree angle to the sash. I saw it demonstrated at the Old House Fair, and there was no gouging of the wood. The blade is also adjustable to keep it away from the glass. The handyman is looking forward to using his, because it certainly sounds better than applying heat.

Q. My newly-purchased condo faces the ocean, and last October a northeaster inundated the living room with an inch of water. I think it came through the slider and through the three fixed floor-to-ceiling windows. Now what?

GLORIA LASALA, Lynn

A. Presumably the water came in at the bottom of said slider and windows, and came in because it was wind-blown.

A quick fix might be to caulk those fixed windows, especially at the bottom. And, if there is no step-down from slider to balcony or deck, the problem is aggravated. If there is no step, it is difficult to make one at least 7 inches high; you'd have to lower the deck.

As for the slider, it is notorious for leaks; it's the nature of its way of opening (side-to-side sliding) that makes it prone to leaks. Another possible fix is to install a storm slider on the slider itself, which would keep much of the rain away from it. This slider should have some sort of lip at the bottom, sort of a drip edge, to guide water down and away. Similar storm windows might also work on the fixed windows. These storms were popular some years ago during the energy crisis, so I am not sure they are still sold.

Another fix is to secure rubber thresholds (normally used for garage doors) at the outside bottom of the slider and fixed windows, to divert the water from getting under them.

When a caller wanted to know where to find an old electric fixture to go on the top of her newel post where the original fixture had been removed, leaving dangling wires, the handyman was stumped.

Lisa Koch of Jamaica Plain had a similar problem, but was not stumped. She called to tell us she found an antique ceiling fixture that holds a glass globe. ``I turned it upside down and installed it on top of my post. Works great. And it works with old wiring, too.''

Koch found the fixture at Rejuvenation Lamp and Fixture Co. of Portland, Ore., tel. 888-401-1900. ``They will custom-make fixtures, too,'' Koch said. Thank you, Lisa Koch, and thank you, Rejuvenation Lamp and Fixture.

Q. The window sills on three dormers on my roof have rotted. The replacement sills I bought are too thin to fit the opening where I took out the old sills. What can I do?

A. B., Brighton

A. There is a way. Nail or screw a thin board to the bottom of the rough opening; then when the new, thin sill is inserted, it will be tight against the bottom of the window frame. Or, fasten a thin board to the bottom of the replacement sill, bringing it to the correct thickness.

Q. I have good, single-glazed, double-hung windows, and good outside storms, which I am happy with. I was told that I need weep holes in the storms. Where are they located, how big should they be, and how can I put them in?

MARJORIE CROWLEY, Milton

A. I'm glad somebody likes this arrangement, because it is as good as a double-glazed replacement window, if it is properly weatherstripped and if the storm is virtually airtight. The storms do need weep holes. They serve two purposes; they allow release of water vapor to the outdoors and they prevent the well between the two windows from filling with rain in the summer when the screens are down.

Two holes should be in the bottom sill of the aluminum storm, each four inches in from the side and as close as possible to the wood sill. How to do it? Drill a 1/8-inch hole (that is the proper size) into the aluminum frame.

Q. My windows are Thermopane, double-glazing that is supposed to elmininate fogging. Yet on cold nights I get water on the glass and aluminum frames in the morning. I didn't think Thermopanes would do that. What can I do?

BILL MIRANDO, Ocala, Fla.

A. The cure is an old story, but an effective one: Ventilate, ventilate, ventilate. Open windows in the morning and afternoon to allow that water vapor in the house to escape. It is excess water vapor in the air that is condensing on the glass. It could happen on any glazing because the glass is cool enough for condensation. Incidentally, as you ventilate, you will not lose much heat. The people who say that Thermopane will not get condensation are those who sell you the window.

Condensation occurs on the metal frames because they too are cold. The cure for that is replace the windows with wood, vinyl-clad wood, or solid vinyl replacements. Metal is a notoriously bad insulator, so it is as cool indoors as out. Of course, this would be very expensive.

Another cure, and a sight cheaper, is to buy some weatherstripping foam tape, with an adhesive back, and apply it to the inside face of the metal frame. It won't look so hot but it won't sweat, either.

Q. I am refurbishing my old weighted windows, putting in new ropes with the weights. While I like those weight-balanced windows, I am concerned about the weight pockets, and what I assume is pretty good heat loss through them. Is there a way to hang the window another way without the weights, and then can I fill the weight pockets with insulation?

BOB QUINN, Quincy

A. Yes, there is a way: Building stores sell special jambs that sit in the window opening, into which your windows are inserted, after weights, ropes and pulleys are removed, and the pulley hole covered. And, you can fill those weight pockets with blown-in insulation. Make sure you get the right kind of jamb that will accommodate the thickness of the windows, which may be different from contemporary windows.

You can get jambs that are spring-loaded or friction fit. It has been my experience that the friction fit ones are virtually useless; with such a jamb the window has to be so tight to be airtight and weatherproof that is it difficult if not impossible to move. Made loose enough to move, they leak like a sieve.

While there may be a certain heat loss through the weight pockets, I feel that it is best to keep the ropes and weights because weighted windows are the best operating and the most reliable, and the heat loss is not terribly significant. That has been my experience.

Q. I have a small area of decay in my windowsill. Is there a plastic I can fill it with, or do I have to replace the sill?

C.M., Medfield, Mass.

A. There certainly is. It is an epoxy plastic wood filler, designed to fill just such decayed areas. Minwax makes one, but there are other brands, too. They are called wood rot fillers. Chip out the decayed wood to expose sound wood. Treat it with a solution of one part bleach and three parts water to kill any fungus that caused the decay in the first place. Fill the cavity with the epoxy filler, smooth off and let set. Sand smooth and repaint. Another type of filler you could use is Bondo, the auto body filler.

And try to determine how the decay occurred. Although I said a fungus caused the decay, the fungus was caused by water, so make sure the sill does not collect water or allow water to stand on it, and make sure the sill is kept well painted.

If the decay is on the edge of the sill, making a gap as if a giant had taken a bite out of it, trying to fill it with the epoxy might be difficult or impossible. So, instead of using the epoxy, cut out the decay so the ``bite'' has square edges, cut a piece of 2-by-4-inch wood to fit the cutout, caulk it heavily, and nail or screw it into the sound sill.

Q. My picture window has several separate sections, each a wood frame with one layer of glass. Obviously it is a big source of heat loss. How can I put storms on the outside of those frames? The sections do not open, so the storms should be permanent.

VICTOR BANDEVICIUS, Westborough

A. Outside storms on those frames would be difficult because there is no way you can open the sectional windows to clean the storms. So, instead, I suggest inside storms, a single layer of glass framed with aluminum. This inside storm is mounted on the inside frame with spring-loaded clips. The best inside storm that I know of is made by Panelair in Brockton. Call them at 508-588-8900. The storm has an interior gasket that makes a very tight fit. And, you can take them down in spring and put them back up, nice and clean, in autumn.

Q. When I sanded my window sills inside, I guess I got carried away because the sander etched about 1 1/2 inches of glass, turning it to frosted glass where I didn't want it. How can I remove that frosting?

W.F., Lincoln, Mass.

A. Try to ignore it, or at least live with it, because it is not going to go away, and removing the frost is virtually impossible. There is a way to remove it, maybe, using cerium oxide (jeweler's rouge) with a power buffer. It is very slow and very tedious; that is why I suggest you live with it.

If you can't live with it, then replace the glass. If it is insulated glass (double glazed), you will have to replace the entire sash.

Q. My picture window needs reputtying and repainting. Is that something I can do?

C.K., Brockton

A. It certainly is, but it is not an easy project. You have to reputty not with putty, but something called glazing compound, and in order to do that, you have to remove the old glazing compound, or at least any loose stuff. Glazing compound usually deteriorates along the bottom edge, and maybe a few inches up each side. Try scraping off the old compound with a chisel; some will come out easily, some may take a little more work to remove. You can soften some of the more stubborn compound with a hot-air gun, making it easy to scrape. Be careful, though: That hot air gun can crack the window if the glass gets too hot.

Once the compound is removed, paint the wood with boiled linseed oil to condition it and prevent the new compound from failing. Use a good glazing compound; Dap is good.

To reglaze, roll a big dollop of compound into a long, thin ``snake,'' and press it into the space between glass and wood. Then smooth it off with a putty knife, slanting the compound at about a 45-degree angle from glass to wood. It takes a little practice to do this, especially to get a good, neat corner.

Let the compound set for two or three days; then paint with an oil-based primer; finish with a latex house paint. When painting, paint 1/16 inch onto the glass; this is what seals the compound and makes it waterproof. The reason you want to wait two or three days before painting is to let the compound cure, getting hard enough to paint.

Q. A long, wide (12 inches) interior window sill is made of plasterboard, which got wet and deteriorated. I scraped off the blistered part, taking some of the plasterboard, then gave it a skimcoat with some rubbery patching stuff (vinyl spackle) with the consistency of peanut butter. It came out very uneven. How can I fix it right?

R.N., Cambridge

A. First off, a window sill should not be made of plasterboard, but I understand what you mean; that window sill is part of the wall opening where the window sits. A common construction, but bad.

Vinyl spackle is the thing to use for repair, but if it is rubbery with the consistency of peanut butter, there is something wrong with it. It should have the consistency of heavy sour cream and should go on smoothly. Also, if you used a wide (maybe 3 to 5 inches) putty knife, it is too small for the job.

So, to fix it right, you might be able to sand it heavily to smooth it all out. If not, scrape off all your repair work and install new stuff, but use joint compound instead. And, buy a 12-inch-wide smoothing blade ($2 or so in hardware stores) so you can do a better job of smoothing out the joint compound. That putty knife you used probably created a lot of ridges that are difficult to get out. After the joint compound dries, sand smooth and repaint.

And better yet, instead of going to all that trouble, buy pine boards and install them on top of the plasterboard, so that it overhangs the wall by three-quarters of an inch. Prime and paint or stain and varnish this new sill and you will have a permanant, water-resistant sill that looks a darn sight better than the original plasterboard.

Q. I simply cannot get the clear plastic tape off of my metal framed windows. I taped on an indoor storm last fall, and when I went to take them off this spring, they came off all right, but not the plastic tape. I tried Goof-Off, heat from a hair dryer, Resolve and carpet cleaner. Now what? Actually it doesn't look too bad in place, but I'd still like to take if off.

IABETH BLOOM, Swampscott

A. Nothing works to soften the adhesive because the tape is impervious to any treatment. Heat should do it, but it didn't for you.

You must get to the adhesive under the tape. To do that, pull or scrape a bit up at one end, then spray WD-40 between the pulled-up tape and the frame. This should soften the adhesive enough so you can pull the tape as you go along. An alternative solvent is Dow's Bug & Tar Remover or dry-cleaning fluid.

Q. I have Levelor blinds on many of the casement windows in my brand-new house, with screens behind the Levelors. Trouble is, I can't remove the screens to wash the windows or to sweep out all the cobwebs on the outside. I can clean them from the outside on the first-floor windows, but not higher up. What can I do?

A.F., Swampscott

A. This question begs for a smart-alec answer: Take down the Levelors! But if they are semi-permanently hung, that is not practical. Frankly, nothing else is. Is there any way to re-hang the Levelors to make screen removal easier and quicker? I think the only way to do that is to hang the Levelors on the inside casing, instead of between the jambs. Trouble is, the Levelors are sized for hanging between the jambs, and would have to be bigger if they are to hang on the inside casing.

The handyman has a similar situation on one window, but the shade is an ordinary roller blind that is easily taken up and put back when the need arises. Other than that little treatise, the handyman has no more ideas.

Q. I have old windows with pulleys and ropes, which I like very much, but I can't find someone to fix them. Who does such work?

BETTY JEAN KELLY,Westwood

A. A handyman (not me!) might do it, but if you have just a few windows it might be hard to find anyone to do a small job. Besides, it is generally a do-it-yourself project, because it is uncomplicated. I think it is worth doing because weighted windows are among the best you can get; they never get out of adjustment (except when the ropes break), they can be weatherstripped effectively, and they go well with storms.

Here's how to do it. Unscrew or pry off the side stop, a thin board

2 to 3 inches wide that sits on the jamb, holding the lower sash in place. Lift out the lower sash and set it aside. This will reveal a little trapdoor in the jamb; open it to reveal the weight pocket. Carefully reach into that pocket to retrieve the weight that has fallen to the floor. This is tricky and risky, because the space is tight and you want to avoid scratching yourself on all the nail points sticking out in that pocket.

Weight retrieved, mount the sash on the sill in its approximate down position. Thread the new sash cord (hardware stores sell them but clothesline will also work) over the pulley and down the pocket until it appears in the trapdoor; pull it out and tie the weight to it; insert the weight into the pocket and pull it up until it touches the pulley; back off about 2 inches; thread the cord into the groove on the edge of the sash; cut it so you can tie a knot in its end to fit into a hole at the bottom of that groove.

Done right, it will work perfectly.

If you can't retrieve the weight, buy one of the correct size. A wrong-size weight will not work well. Weights might be hard to find, but Schwartz's Hardware in Watertown sells them.

One thing you can do to keep from ever having to replace that sash cord again is to use a sash chain instead. They are solid brass and will not rust, but they must be nailed into the groove of the sash and attached to the weight with copper wire.