4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups milk

1 teaspoon sugar

Dash of salt

1 1/4 cups buckwheat flour

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 eggs

1/2 cup beer

Put the butter, milk, sugar and salt into a medium saucepan and heat over medium flame just until butter melts.

Put the flour in a mixing bowl and make a well in the center, adding the oil and the eggs. Begin mixing with a whisk until the liquid begins to thicken and then add the warm milk mixture, little by little, until 1 cup has been added, beating well with the whisk until it is smooth. The mixture should be smooth and medium-thick. Then slowly add the rest of the milk, continuing to whisk until smooth. Mix in the beer and then pour into a pitcher or other container with a pour spout to ease the crepe-baking process.

Chill the batter at least 2 hours or overnight. When ready to make the crepes, let the batter warm up slightly for 20 minutes. Heat a crepe pan until a drop of water sizzles when it hits the pan. Rub the pan with a bit of butter and wipe out. Ladle about 2 tablespoons of batter into the pan, then, holding the handle with a potholder, swirl it so the batter thinly and evenly coats the bottom of the pan. Brown the first side for 1 minute over medium heat, then gently lift with a knife or very thin spatula, turn over and fry for 1 minute. Turn out onto a piece of wax paper so that the first side is down, and continue the process.

The side that browns first is the outside and should be brown and lacy. The crepes will keep several hours at room temperature, layered with wax paper and wrapped in plastic wrap.

Makes about 2 dozen.

Cardamom-scented pears:

6 whole cardamom pods

3 black peppercorns

3 allspice berries

4 Bosc or Bartlett pears, firm-ripe

Water

Juice of 1 lemon

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup brown sugar

Slightly crush the spices with the flat side of a Chinese-style cleaver; do not pulverize in a grinder. Peel and core the pears and cut them into thin slices. Put the slices into a bowl, cover with water, about 2 cups, add lemon juice and spices. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a heavy saute or frying pan. Meanwhile, remove the pears
from the water with a slotted spoon, place them in another bowl, then turn the pears into the frying pan. Gently coat them with butter, turning with a wooden spoon. Add brown sugar and caramelize slowly until pale golden. Then add about 1 cup of the acidulated-spice water and a few of the cardamom pods, lower the heat and cook for about 10 minutes until the liquid becomes syrupy and the pears are tender. Remove from heat and set aside.

Chocolate drizzle:

6 ounces of good-quality semisweet chocolate, broken into small pieces

3/4 cup heavy cream

This sauce is easily made in a microwave or a heavy-bottomed saucepan. In a saucepan, melt the chocolate slowly over low heat, gradually stirring in the cream a tablespoon at a time. If using the microwave, melt the chocolate for 2 minutes. Add half the cream and heat for 1 minute; then add the rest of the cream and heat for another minute, stirring to mix. (Times may vary according to wattage; consult microwave instructions.)

To assemble:

Put 2 to 3 tablespoons of the pear mixture on a crepe, about one-third of the width from the edge. Roll and then tuck in the ends, place seam side down on a plate or in a shallow casserole. When you've completed filling the crepes, drizzle the chocolate sauce over the top and serve. The crepes will be small, but 4 apiece is a generous amount.