8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate (use high quality)

3 ounces ( 3/4 stick) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons brandy, rum, or liqueur, or a nonalcoholic flavoring such as strong coffee

Confectioners' sugar to taste, if desired

2 egg yolks

About 1/3 cup cocoa powder, sifted; or chopped toasted nuts, or toasted coconut

Combine the chocolate, butter, and spirits in the top of a double boiler (or small bowl that fits snugly) over gently simmering water; be sure the bottom is not touching the water. As the chocolate and butter melt, stir to combine them and smooth the mixture until glossy. Taste for sweetness (semisweet and bittersweet chocolates vary in degree). If you wish, stir in a tablespoon or 2 of confectioners' sugar. Take the pan off the heat and let it cool slightly. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time. (If you are worried about salmonella, a temperature of 165 degrees will cook the yolks enough.)

Cool the mixture and chill it for an hour or more. If it hardens, let it soften at room temperature. Spread the cocoa (or nuts or coconut) on a plate. Break off nuggets of the chocolate mixture or scoop pieces with a melon baller, and roll them one at a time between your palms into a ball the size of a large marble. Then roll the pieces in the cocoa to coat them. Put the truffles individually in little paper or foil cups if you wish. Store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator or freezer. Remove before serving.

Makes about 24 truffles.