4 pheasant legs, skinned and boned, tendons removed

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium-small onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 to 3 tablespoons Madeira or dry sherry

1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

About 3 strips bacon

Make sure the pheasant tendons have been removed; this is tedious but necessary. If the flesh has been damaged by buckshot, cut out and discard it. Dice the meat in small pieces and chop it in a food processor, taking care not to overprocess and obliterate texture.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Melt the butter in a small pan and soften the onion and garlic in it, stirring, for a few minutes. Cool the mixture, scrape it into a bowl, and combine with the chopped pheasant, Madeira, and seasonings. Pack the mixture in a small ovenproof bowl (about 4 cups capacity) or loaf pan. Lay the strips of bacon on top in one layer, trimming them to fit. Cover tightly with foil. Cook the pate for 1 1/2 hours. Take the pan out, let it cool somewhat, then weight it to press the pate down and make it compact. Chill thoroughly. If you let the pate wait for a few days, the flavor will ripen.

To serve, scrape off and discard the congealed fat on top. Turn the pate out, slice it across, and serve with cornichons or greens, crusty bread, and a robust red wine.

Makes about 3 cups, or 6 first-course servings.