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Gumbo z'herbes

Adapted from ``Creole Feast'' by Nathaniel Burton and Rudy Lombard (Random House, 1978). According to the recipe, precision measuring is never used with this type of gumbo. Gumbo Z'herbes is an abbreviation of ``aux herbes,'' meaning ``of herbs'' (or greens) in French. It was traditionally eaten on Good Friday by Louisiana's Catholic community, which often made this gumbo without meat. You can make this gumbo vegetarian by omitting the ham and veal. Don't worry about the enormous amount of greens called for in the recipe; the pile will shrink as it cooks.


For the greens:

7 pounds of greens, such as chicory, collard greens, beet tops, mustard greens, and watercress

1/2 small green cabbage, chopped

1/2 bunch scallions, trimmed and chopped


For the gumbo:

2 tablespoons shortening

1 pound ham, diced

1 pound lean veal, diced

1 large white onion, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

4 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

2 whole cloves

2 whole allspice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cayenne pepper

To prepare the greens, bring a gallon of water in a large stockpot to a boil. Wash the greens thoroughly and remove all tough stems. Put the greens in the stockpot and simmer for about 2 hours.

Saving the cooking liquid, strain the greens and chop finely. Set the cooking liquid aside.

To make the gumbo, heat the shortening in a stockpot over medium heat. Add the ham and veal, and saute for 10 minutes. Add the onion and parsley, and saute until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Add the greens and cook for 15 minutes. Add the reserved cooking liquid from the greens, along with the thyme, bay leaves, cloves, and allspice. Simmer over low heat for 30 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Remove the thyme stems, bay leaves, cloves, and allspice before serving over hot cooked rice.

Makes 14 cups.