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The Boston Globe OnlineBoston.com Boston Globe Online / Archives
Azita Bina-Seibel's kookoo sibzamini

Bina-Seibel notes that the large amount of oil poured into the baking pan seeps into the delicate potato-and-egg squares and helps keeps them moist. Saffron, barberries, and Persian rose petals are available at Super Hero's, a Middle Eastern market in Watertown.

2 pounds baking potatoes (about 4 medium)

1/2 medium onion, peeled

1 heaping teaspoon saffron strands

1 tablespoon boiling water

1/4 cup barberries (see Note) or minced dried cranberries

1 tablespoon rose petals (see Note)

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 eggs

1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for approximately 25 minutes, or until a knife easily slides through the center of one potato. Drain.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel and grate into a medium bowl. Grate the onion.

Place the saffron in a mortar and grind to a powder with a pestle; transfer to a small dish. Add the boiling water, stir to dissolve, and add to the potato mixture. Stir in the barberries, followed by the rose petals, salt, turmeric, baking powder, and pepper. Add the eggs and, using your hands, blend the mixture for approximately 10 minutes. (Alternatively, place the mixture in a heavy-duty standing mixer with a paddle attachment and mix for 10 minutes.) Do not use a food processor or electric beaters -- both will turn the potatoes into a gluey mess.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place one oven rack on the highest level of the oven and another rack on the lowest level.

Pour the oil into a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Using your fingers, coat the corners and sides of the pan. Spread the batter evenly in the pan and place on the top level of the oven; bake for 20 minutes.

Move the pan to the bottom level and bake for 20 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center of the batter. Remove from the oven and let cool. Cut into small squares or diamonds and serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes approximately 35 squares.

Note: Barberries are tart red cranberrylike berries. You can substitute dried cranberries. The rose petals used in Persian cooking are not the same as the commercially grown flowers found in the United States. Do not substitute flowers or rose water.