4 lobsters, 1 1/2 pounds each

1/2 cup Lapsang souchong or other loose black tea leaves

1/2 cup sugar

For the sauce:

Reserved bodies of 4 lobsters

1/4 cup olive oil

5 shallots, roughly chopped

1 carrot, roughly chopped

1 stalk celery, roughly chopped

1 leek, roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

2 thin slices ginger

1 stalk lemongrass (available in supermarkets or Asian markets)

1/2 jalapeno pepper

2 cups white wine

2 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped

2 cups water

4 tablespoons butter

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt and pepper, to taste

For the vegetables:

Peanut oil, for frying

1/2 pound taro root or sweet potato, peeled and julienned

Salt, to taste

4 small bok choy, halved lengthwise

4 thin slices ginger

2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons soy sauce

Sliced scallions, for garnish

Sesame seeds, for garnish

In a large pot, over a few inches of boiling water, steam lobsters whole for 8 minutes. Plunge them into ice water. As soon as they are cool, remove claws and tail. Crack claws, leaving meat intact. With a pair of kitchen scissors, snip the undersides of the tails. Set bodies (heads and midsections) aside.

To smoke the lobster, line a large wok and its lid with heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place wok over burner. Combine the tea and sugar, and spread mixture evenly on the bottom of the wok. Set a rack about 2 inches above the mixture. Place claws and tails, cut side down, on the rack.

Set the heat to high. When you smell the tea mixture smoking (about 3 to 5 minutes), cover tightly and shut the burner off. Leave lobsters to smoke, covered, for 12 to 15 minutes. Remove lobster pieces and set aside.

To make the sauce, place reserved lobster bodies and olive oil in a large, heavy skillet. Saute over high heat until lobster is lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Remove lobster bodies to a stockpot.

Add shallots, carrot, celery, leek, garlic, ginger, lemongrass and jalapeno pepper to the skillet. Saute over medium-high heat until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer to the stockpot.

Deglaze pan with the white wine. Pour wine, tomatoes and water into the stockpot. Simmer slowly for 1 1/2 hours, skimming as the sauce cooks. Strain sauce and reduce over medium heat to approximate 3/4 cup. Add butter, lemon juice and salt and pepper.

To prepare the vegetables, in a large, heavy skillet, place peanut oil to a depth of 1/4 inch. Heat to 350 degrees, or until a cube of bread placed in the oil colors immediately; fry taro until crisp and pale gold, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle liberally with salt.

Pour off all but 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil. Over medium-high heat, saute bok choy, cut-side down, for 5 minutes. Add ginger and garlic, and saute till barely golden, about 3 minutes. Add soy sauce. Transfer vegetables to the center of a serving platter.

With a knife, cut smoked lobster-tail sections crosswise into three pieces each. Add smoked lobster claws and tail pieces to the skillet. Sear over high heat for 2 minutes. Arrange lobster in a circular fashion around the bok choy. Pile taro fries on top of bok choy. Nap sauce over lobster. Garnish with sliced scallions and sesame seeds.

Serves 4 to 6.