1 pound boneless veal shoulder or loin, cut into 10 to 12 slices

10 to 12 slices of prosciutto (about 3 to 4 ounces total)

1/4 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into 10 to 12 slices

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Four 10-inch wooden skewers

About 1/4 pound pancetta, cut into 6 thick slices, which are then cut in half

Olive oil, for basting

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire, or preheat a gas grill for 15 minutes on medium high.

Place each veal slice between 2 pieces of wax paper and flatten with a mallet or the side of a heavy cleaver until meat is 1/16 inch thick and at least 5 inches long by 3 inches wide. Cover each slice of veal with a slice of prosciutto and a piece of mozzarella. Pepper to taste.

Roll up, press closed with your hands, and secure the ends with a toothpick so the cheese will not ooze out during grilling.

Double skewer all the ingredients: Hold 2 skewers parallel to each other about 1/2 inch apart between your thumb and forefinger. Put half the roll-ups, interspersed with pieces of pancetta, on each set of double skewers.

Place the skewers on the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Baste frequently with olive oil.

Serves 4.