For the rustic rub:

1 tablespoon paprika

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 1/4 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried thyme

For the gumbo:

1 large duck (4 1/2 to 5 pounds) or 2 smaller ducks of the same weight

2 teaspoons plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil

2 teaspoons rustic rub (see below)

3/4 cup flour

1 1/2 cups chopped onions

1 cup chopped green pepper

1 cup chopped celery

2 cups sliced assorted wild mushrooms, such as shiitake, oyster, or chanterelle

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 bay leaves

2 quarts chicken broth

2 cups water

2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions

To make the rustic rub, mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl; set aside.

To make the gumbo, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Rub the duck with 2 teaspoons of the oil and 2 teaspoons of the rustic rub (store the remaining rub in an airtight container for another use). Place the duck in a roasting pan and bake, uncovered, for 45 to 60 minutes, or until tender and cooked through. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Cut the duck into 8 serving pieces. Or, if you prefer not to contend with skin and bones in the finished gumbo, remove skin from the duck, pull the meat off the bone, and tear the meat into bite-sized pieces. Place the meat in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

Combine the remaining 3/4 cup of oil and the flour in a large deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Stir slowly and constantly for 10 to 12 minutes to make a medium-brown roux (the color of peanut butter). Add the onions, pepper, celery, and duck. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft. Add the mushrooms, garlic, salt, thyme, cayenne, and bay leaves. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the broth and water. Bring the mixture just to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours. Remove the bay leaves and add the scallions before serving over hot cooked rice.

Makes 12 cups.