Bulgaria's Camelot

A medieval capital retains its dramatic presence

Author: By William A. Davis, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, August 25, 1996

Page: M11

Section: Travel

Situated in the heart of Bulgaria, Veliko Turnovo stands at a hairpin bend of the Yantra River, fed by streams from the usually snowcapped Balkan mountain range. The town is moated by steep gorges carved by the fast-flowing river, circled by ancient fortifications and dominated by the brooding remains of the fortress of the czars, warrior kings who for two tumultuous centuries ruled all Bulgaria from here.

In medieval Veliko Turnovo, royalty and high nobility lived in relative safety behind the massive ramparts of Tsarevets Hill, the royal residence. Common folk had to take their considerable chances outside the fortress walls.

Most commoners tried to get as close to the protective ramparts as possible, building houses that clung to the steep sides of the Yantra gorges like mollusks on a rock. A Bulgarian poet compared the ancient huddled houses of Veliko Turnovo to a herd of frightened sheep, trapped on a precipitous slope by tangles of wild vines and clumps of riotous lavender. But to the great architect Le Corbusier, the town was a superb example of ``organic'' architecture.

There is irony (and social justice) in the fact that the homes of the common people are still in place, defying time and gravity. But virtually nothing remains of the houses of nobility on Tsarevets Hill, and all that can be seen of the royal palace are its excavated foundations.

Even largely in ruins, however, Tsarevets Hill is impressive, a commanding site at the tip of a hook-shaped promontory formed by the river and protected on three sides by deep gorges. A natural fortress, the hill was strengthened by powerful fortifications: Outer walls were 9 feet thick and up to 35 feet high. Possession of this almost impregnable bastion was what emboldened two local lords, the brothers Asen and Kaloyan, to rebel against the Byzantine Empire and proclaim an independent Bulgarian kingdom in 1183.

Tsarevets Hill fell into ruins after the Turkish conquest of Bulgaria in the 15th century. Over the centuries, the hill became in folk memory a sort of Bulgarian Camelot and is now a revered national historic site.

Both the main gate of the fortress and the ramparts have been restored -- the latter offering memorable straight-down views of the circling gorges. The summit of Tsarevets Hill is topped by Holy Ascension Cathedral, once seat of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church, which has been reconstructed in the medieval style on the original foundations. The interior of the church has striking, brilliantly-colored murals by a modern artist depicting the early history of the Bulgarian people.

Also restored as a national symbol is Baldwin's Tower. The Bulgarian kingdom peaked in influence in 1205, when it defeated and captured the crusader Baldwin of Flanders, who had occupied Constantinople with an army of knights and proclaimed himself emperor of the East.

Poor Baldwin ended his days chained in the tower. At that he was lucky not to be taken to another Tsarevets Hill landmark, Execution Rock: a boulder jutting over the Yantra gorge from which enemies of the czars were thrown to their deaths.

Directly across from Tsarevets Hill on the south bank of the Yantra is Sveta Gora, or ``Holy Hill.'' The community of monks who lived here in the Middle Ages -- famous all over the Balkans for their icons and writings in the Slavic vernacular -- made it the spiritual and cultural center of Bulgaria. Today, the wooded hill is the home of Cyril and Methodius University, named for the medieval clerics and Orthodox saints who developed the alphabet still used in Bulgaria, Russia and Serbia.

To commemorate the 800th anniversary of the founding of the Bulgarian Kingdom, a grandiose monument -- a towering obelisk surrounded by gigantic bronze equestrian statues -- was erected on an outcropping in the river at the foot of Holy Hill. Both the monument and Tsarevets Hill are illuminated at night with dramatic effect.

The center of Veliko Turnovo is quite compact, not surprising given its topography, and easy to explore on foot. Main streets more or less follow the spine of the promontory, while the steep and narrow side streets (which often have staircases for sidewalks) plunge down to the river's edge.

Most side-street houses are remarkable mainly for their stubborn refusal to fall into the Yantra. But a number of commercial buildings in the old town are in the imposing 19th-century National Revival style, richly ornamented and with colorful murals and floral decorations. One such is the ``House of the Little Monkey'' on Vastanicheska Street, so called because of the statuette of a grimacing monkey on its ornate brick facade.

The former ``han,'' or caravansary, where itinerant traders used to lodge and display their goods, still stands but isn't open to the public. Very much in business, however, is the old bazaar. Here, clustered around a small cobblestone square, are a number of arts and crafts stores, the workshops of woodworkers and other artisans and a couple of inviting cafes.

Just two miles from Veliko Turnovo, in the hills above the town, is the remarkable and mysterious village of Arbanassi. Arbanassi was founded in the 16th century by a community of merchants to whom the Turkish sultan granted extraordinary privileges. These included exemption from most taxes, the right to carry arms for protection and permission to trade anywhere in the empire.

With these advantages over competitors, the Arbanassi merchants became rich, envied and very nervous. To protect their lives and wealth, they built grand homes that were really sumptuous fortresses. Typically, the homes had lush gardens and luxurious furnishings but were surrounded by high blank walls and entered through heavy, nail-studded gates. Most also had secret rooms for storing valuables and concealed doors and tunnels for quick getaways.

Arbanassi lost its privileged status in the mid-19th century, and the village gradually declined in importance. But the thick-walled houses remain to be marveled at. Most are still private homes, but a few, such as the particularly grand and well-fortified residence of the merchant Kostansaliev, are open to the public.

Arbanassi has several interesting old churches, but its glory is the Church of the Nativity. Like an Arbanassi mansion, the church has a stark exterior that gives no hint of the glowing riches within.

Built in the 17th century when Turkish rule was at its most oppressive, the church could by law have no steeple or exterior decoration and had to be sunk into the ground to make it much less conspicuous than a mosque. Within their churches, however, Bulgarians were free to express themselves.

In Arbanassi, they chose to turn the Church of the Nativity into an art gallery, completely covering the walls with richly colored, masterfully executed frescoes. Some 3,500 figures are represented, including not only Christ, the Virgin and major saints but also Socrates, Plato, Aristotle and other Greek philosophers.

Besides old houses, Arbanassi also boasts a new amenity: Bulgaria's first boutique hotel. This is the Arbanassi Palace, which has only nine rooms but a five-star rating.

Until the downfall of the communist regime, the Arbanassi Palace was an exclusive retreat for high party officials. Now anyone can stay there for a price: $110 a night for a double room, expensive for Bulgaria.

The Arbanassi Palace's elegant terrace dining room looks directly down on Tsarevets Hill, a stunning sight at night when the old fortress is illuminated. So, in the new Western-oriented Bulgaria, a view once reserved for the elite of the Communist Party can now be enjoyed by any card-carrying tourist. Credit card-carrying, that is.

For information about travel to Bulgaria, write to Balkan USA, 20 E. 46th St., Suite 1003, New York, NY 10017. Or call (800) 822-1106.