He works hard at loafing

Mamadou's makes French bread the way it was meant to be - crusty with a tender chewy crumb and loads of flavor. At this new Winchester bakery, owner Mamadou Mbaye is at the helm. A native of Senegal, he learned his craft in France. Mbaye attributes the quality of his loaves to a long fermentation (four to six hours), the slow process of mixing, and the quality of ingredients: unbleached, unbromated flour; pure sea salt; water. Many breads ($3 to $7) begin with a starter and don't contain yeast. The storefront is one big room with a counter and shelves in front, the workspace in back. You can watch Mbaye mixing and shaping traditional or whole-wheat baguettes, raisin or cranberry pecan loaves, olive bread, and a thick-crusted peasant round. Buy more than you need so you can tear into the bag on the way home. Mamadou's, 63 Swanton St., Winchester, 781-560-8068.