The opening look at Victoria Beckham’s show was a windowpane plaid coat. She also incorporated more sweaters and knits into her collection, with a nod to mod with some geometric, colorblocked shift dresses.
The most unexpected looks were the flashes of bright yellow, including a sleeveless trench; the techno shine she added to pleated skirts that the audience could only see as the models walked; and the long cape-style tuxedo coat.
One of the important evolutions for fall is the softer shoulder, which she used to tweak one of her popular zip-back, slim-fit dress silhouettes.
For shoes, she put models in lower kitten heels, made in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, which was a bit of a surprise for a woman known for skyscraper stilettos.
‘‘I'm always designing what I want to wear,’’ she said.
Derek Lam says a navy-black mix is one of his favorite combinations.
‘‘There’s something very unpretentious about navy, and black is very crisp and stark. The navy breaks up the black. And black gives the navy an urban feel,’’ the designer said backstage after his fall-winter preview.
Lam paired a navy-and-white satin top with a black wool trouser. A navy-and-gray wool jersey T-shirt came with a navy-and-black jacquard trouser, plus black shoes and bag. A felt coat came in navy, black and white wool, covering an ivory lace dress.
Another big color on Lam’s runway this season: luxurious camel. A classic, loose coat in camel cashmere opened the show, and a roomy cashmere duffel coat looked glamorous with sunglasses of the same color. Camel was also used for a wool cashmere pullover, a wool-and-cashmere dress and a big boucle cape.
Capes in general were a popular item. One particularly nice look was an elbow-length black leather cape that tied in front.
A red, knee-length fox fur vest, paired with wine-colored flat boots, was by far the most flamboyant item in the show. A shorter, navy fox vest was more understated and in line with the rest of the collection. It was paired with a navy crochet dress and brown ankle boots.
Joseph Altuzarra’s urban, confident, fashion-forward customer wears graphic black-and-white leather — layers it on, in fact — and then there’s the fox or mink fur on top. She’s not shy about drawing attention in fur mittens, shiny grommet embellishment and strategically placed zippers. She wears her high-waisted trousers with a low-slung belt.
His fall-winter collection also includes optic white pants and a khaki cotton sleeveless trench worn with a khaki four-button tailored skirt.
The silhouette he offers his customers is strong and slim, sometimes with a little bump at the hip.
‘‘The design and construction emphasize the nip of the waist and exaggerate the hip, while shrunken proportions mixed with a bolder shoulder volume sharpen the classic silhouette,’’ he says in describing the shape.
The ‘‘Project Runway’’ alum used the Russian opera as the inspiration for his fall runway show, using a book of Russian opera houses as reference.
The girl wearing this collection, he said, was on her way to see the Russian opera.
‘‘I wanted it to be a story of what she wears during the day, what she'll wear for a cocktail dress, what she'll wear to the opera,’’ he said.
His vintage-inspired day looks evoke many eras, from the 1940s to the 1960s, and were mostly separates of turtlenecks paired with loose leather trousers and faux fur vests in muted colors such as white, black and camel.
One ensemble included a pointed-toe flat in a penny loafer style, a surprise inclusion given fashion’s love for the high heel. Siriano explained it as a way to ensure its wearability, and also because he ‘‘wanted it to be a bit more demure, a bit simple.’’
Other shoes in the collection included bootie heels and heeled penny loafers with gold trim, echoing the filigree that anchored many of the evening dresses that closed the show.
AP Writers Jocelyn Noveck, Nicole Evatt and Amanda Kwan contributed to this story.
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