Khan said in his notes that the collection was ‘‘modern opulence.’’ He found inspiration in all things grand and glamorous from the Byzantine Empire to the Art Deco era.
The looks were weighed down by Khan’s affinity for beading. The crystal-covered slip dresses seemed a particular feat.
Remember Chewbacca in ‘‘Star Wars"? Now imagine his get-up had a train, like a bridal gown. Now imagine it was dyed bright yellow. Now imagine some human skin showing through, about thigh level.
‘‘That was a fantasy piece,’’ quipped designer Jeremy Scott after this striking ensemble closed out his show. ‘‘I always wanted to do a coat with a tail.’’
Many designers have fantasies that make it to the runway, but few so entertainingly as Scott, a cheerful bad boy of the fashion world.
This show was ostensibly about fall and winter wear, which explains the furry Chewbacca look, but what about the bikini tops, paired with tiny minis? Well, it’s always hot somewhere in the world.
There were plenty of big, Scott-style graphics on display — lots of teeth and eyeballs, for example, on sweaters or in a green leathery ensemble that recalled a vintage pinup poster.
The Mendel customer will still have her gala gowns, her furs and her lunch-date looks come fall, but she'll be serving them with a spicier attitude.
‘‘I felt like it was time for leaner shapes, a little fierce,’’ designer Gilles Mendel said backstage. ‘‘She’s still feminine, but she’s not an angry woman.’’
Who could be when her closet is full of a quilted mink motorcycle jacket with a clever detachable bottom (two coats in one!) or a pearl-colored mink turtleneck sweater that she can wear with a slim tailored pant?
‘‘I'm just a big fan. ... I really sort of respond to the ladylike, feminine sort of clothing,’’ said front-row guest Katherine Heigl, who has worn his dresses on the red carpet.
The runway show staged by Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco was sheer Hollywood. And we do mean sheer.
The sexiest looks for sure were the beaded gowns that had skillful and strategic cutouts, to places that would normally defy gravity, that were then filled in with powder-colored tulle.
Even in the daytime, their muse has an edge, though it seems she likes her luxury, too. What better for her than a shearling vest over a tech-fabric raincoat, or a fox-trimmed peacoat?
Was it you who inspired Narciso Rodriguez?
He saw two women — not dressed particularly fancy or fashion forward — who crossed each other on the street one day at just the right moment of a winter solstice.
The women-on-the-street influence was seen mostly in the orange-tinged outfits, such as a tangerine-colored fleece jacket paired with cognac-colored crepe skinny pants and a high-neck tangerine sheath dress.
But, said Rodriguez, he also drew a lot of inspiration from the Brazilian artist Lygia Clark, having recently visited a Sao Paulo exhibit dedicated in her honor. That’s where the graphic black and white — among his favorite colors to work with — came in.
The overarching vibe of the clothes was clean and modern, but not restrictive.
Many designers have very specific themes or inspirations for their collections — a painting, an ancient scroll, a mountain — but Reed Krakoff finds all that a bit contrived. For him, it’s a matter of a mood, or several moods, that he tries to explore.
Krakoff’s ‘‘moods’’ were, he said, ‘‘utilitarian and functional, combined with fluidity, combined with sensuality.’’
The utilitarian part came via tailored coats and jackets, in colors of classic navy, charcoal and military green.
The feminine and sensual elements came in flowing skirts, an occasional silky dress — like a black-and-ivory ‘‘liquid satin’’ frock — or blouses that looked functional in front but were sheer, filmy and delicate at the back.
Zoe went a little more tailored — and a little tougher — for the new season, shaking off some of her bohemian rock-star girlfriend.
But she did lend a nod to ‘‘rock ‘n’ roll underground London.’’ She clearly likes music and the 1970s style, too, but she said in her notes she also found inspiration in ‘‘the equestrian lifestyle.’’
That translated into lovely shades of caramel chocolate brown and dark green, especially rich in leather. A pair of pleated leather pants was paired with a cozy fisherman sweater.
For dressing up, the stylist-designer-reality TV star offered a white beaded cocktail dress, and a black jersey maxi dress with a keyhole opening on both the front and back. A sweatshirt-shaped gray sweater with embellished sleeves looked sharp with wide-legged gray flannel pants.Continued...