Giorgio Armani mixes geographies and eras in a complex Emporio Armani collection that proposes something of a revolution: fashion with dignity.
In the Emporio collection previewed Sunday, a bowler hat with a playful rounded rim sets a yesteryear tone, immediately contradicted by oversized Jaipur-style earrings as Armani travels time and the world in a glance.
The collection centered on a decidedly feminine silhouette.
Short organza dresses were worn under wispy overcoats. Voluminous organza tops are belted over wide miniskirts. And long structural skirts are paired with warming mohair pullovers with three-quarter length sleeves, or fetching mohair sleeveless dresses with cropped pants. For Armani this round, mohair expresses fur. Double-breasted jackets were rounded at the hem for a ladylike look, and worn with organza skirts or trousers.
Armani said through this collection he wanted to ‘‘propose something to be contemporary without losing dignity.’’ It’s a theme he has taken on in the past, the anti-vamp, using the influence of his runway to counter what has become the prevalent female media image in Italy, as sex object.
The Salvatore Ferragamo show concentrates on shapes. All in black, white and navy blue, with no prints or bold shades, the clothes have to speak for themselves.
Massimiliano Giornetti, designer for the Florentine brand best known for its accessories, gives his winter styles a voice through sculpted silhouettes and carefully chosen fabrics.
A few examples: a wide Alpaca jacket is worn with an A-line short skirt in pony leather; an oversized cashmere pullover is paired with a dainty slip with beaded hemline; and a classic overcoat becomes even more classy when worked in shiny silk.
Even fur and leather are worked to highlight the artistry of the collection, starting with suede stitched in smocking, or beaver shorn to look like satin.
The famous Ferragamo shoe next winter is a knee-high boot with pointed toe and relatively low stiletto heel, cut out at the instep and laced up the barelegged back. The latest Ferragamo bag is a shopper with metal inserts.
Laura Biagiotti had her mind on Rome for her winter collection.
Not only was the ribbing of her cashmere outfits reminiscent of the sculpted lines of a classic marble column, but the Roman-born designer relaunched her signature ‘‘Roma’’ perfume, which this year celebrates its 25th anniversary.
According to Biagiotti, the brand has sold 80 million bottles of the fragrance since its birth in 1988 and if lined up they would stretch from the Cinecitta film studios in Rome to Hollywood. A nice thought ahead of Sunday night’s Oscar awards ceremony.