Neon and feathers and more for fall

Once destested nearly as much as Gilbert Gottfried, neon crept into collections this week, but its Day-Glo powers were contained by pairing it with black. Both Betsey Johnson (above) and Victorya "I'm competitive" Hong from the most recent season of "Project Runway" paired neon with black in their collections.

It wasn't exactly Seattle circa 1993, but when Peter Som sent his first model down the runway in a plaid bathrobe over a chiffon dress, there was something very punk about the attitude. He later showed he was serious about plaid with a navy plaid peacoat. The Y-3 show (above), held in an ice block-filled parking garage, sported glowing orange plaid ensembles not seen since Johnny Rotten asked God to save the Queen. Preen and Herrera also filled runways with checks.

PETA took out an advertisement in a fashion daily congratulating Charlotte Ronson for not using fur, but she was a rare exception as designers filled runways with real and faux fur in their collections. Badgley Mischka showed beaver vests, fox vests, and mink coats on the catwalk. There was fur, fun fur, and shearling in Peter Som (above), Z Zegna, Max Azria, Rubin Singer, and Verrier's lines as well.

There was still much black and gray spotted on catwalks this week, but color was the bigger story. Deep cobalt blue, paired with black, showed up in Proenza Schouler's stunning line for fall/winter (above). The return of Halston was given an additional kick with hues of copper, paprika, and rust, while loden green gave Catherine Malandrino's sophisticated frocks autumnal flair.

Thom Browne took the trend to flighty (and brilliant) extremes as his sideshow-theme spectacular on Monday, but even outside of Browne's universe, feathers were all over fall/winter collections. Carolina Herrera accented her Robin Hood-meets-Sherlock Holmes collection with giant plumes, while Peter Som and John Varvatos used feathers as subtle accents.

Cover your eyes. A trend that is flattering to no one, with the exception of Jaclyn Smith in a time machine set for 1979, is returning. Young designers Erin Fetherston and Victorya Hong both sent jump suits down the runway. Z Zegna even created one for men, although they opted for the more masculine "work suit" to describe it. Call it what you please, just please make it disappear.

If you've filled your closet with wide leg trousers and ombré dresses, you are in luck. Both of those trends look to make a return in the fall. Diane von Furstenberg's 1940s-inspired line (above) embraced wide trousers, while Herve Leger sent stunning ombré minis down the runway.

- CHRISTOPHER MUTHER