'Mad' for perfect brows, true red bows

With its smoke-filled offices, three-martini lunches, and bullet bras, AMC's break-out show, "Mad Men," takes viewers back to the early 1960s and the world of advertising. Besides its stellar acting, the show has won acclaim for its period detail, acclaim the show's makeup department head, Debbie Zoller (inset), is ecstatic about. Zoller's up for two Emmys (of the show's 16 nominations), and she filled us in on her work on the series, fall beauty trends, and the importance of red lipstick.

How has the makeup and fashion on "Mad Men" worked its way into the mainstream? It was all about the brows and the bows - the eyebrows and the bows of the lips - the lips were very distinct in the period. It's funny because I get phone calls from various sources - and I don't know even how they find me - but they ask things like what's the lipstick you're using on Joan or Betty, because they want to wear that lipstick and that makes me so happy. The period really has a specific look, and for people to want to re-create that look is really exciting for me.

Is this the first time you've really had to take the progression of time into consideration on a project? A lot of the period pieces I've done have been set in the 1800s, so there isn't anyone alive that can call me out on the carpet, so to speak. The people who watch this show, especially the bloggers, they don't miss a beat. I've had people make so many comments about the nails and the makeup and how accurate it all is.

What kind of research do you do before creating the looks on set? I use pictures of my family members from that period for reference and have bought so many reference materials on eBay, like old Life magazines. When I started, the first season was set in 1959 and the second season in 1962 so I had to develop new looks and colors.

Fall fashion has taken a turn to retro-femininity. What about beauty and makeup trends? I think that is coming back. Bloomingdale's dedicated windows at their store on Lexington and Third [avenues] in New York to "Mad Men" and the designers that are current-day designers designed a retro look in their fall lines. I think now makeup will follow. I do see a lot of matte lipsticks and people wanting more color versus glosses.

What's your take on red lipstick? Most women will say that they never wear red lipstick or nail polish, but if it's a true red, anyone can wear it. If it has an orange or blue undertone then you have to be careful. And I swear I can find a red lipstick that will look good on anyone. Ruby Woo by MAC is a great red. Laura Mercier has some great reds that are nice and matte.

What should women be doing with their makeup for fall? I would say that for fall, really bold colors are coming out, including intense jewel tones. People need to pick one area on their face that they want to play up - the lips are a great place to start. Buy a new colorful lipstick. Lipstick can change your entire mood. Don't be afraid of color, you've just got to go for it.