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Givenchy delivers bold, eclectic menswear show

By Jenny Barchfield
Associated Press Writer / June 26, 2009
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PARIS—Take a pinch of Axl Rose, add a black and white Palestinian keffiyah scarf, a Latino homeboy and a dollop of Michael Jackson and what do you get?

A graphic spring-summer 2010 collection by Givenchy that exudes equal parts Cuban gentleman, seething rocker and Arab street, with cred to spare.

Riccardo Tisci, the Italian designer whose luxurious, Gothic garments have breathed new life into the once-ailing French label, once again delivered the goods, with a runway show Friday that had the generally blase crowd of fashion insiders hooting with approval.

"It's a Latino boy in Morocco, Tunisia, these countries ... with more gymnasium, more suits like people want from Givenchy ... and then there was an homage to Michael Jackson -- I was working on his suits -- and to Axl Rose from Guns N' Roses with all the checkered shirts," Tisci told The Associated Press in a backstage interview.

Tisci sent out models in keffiyah-print zippered hoodie sweat shirts and red plaid button-down shirts scintillating with star-shaped golden studs.

Though the collection was less overly Goth than in seasons past, most looks had an undercurrent of perversion. Even the Latin King looks -- sharp, double-breasted suits in bone white -- had a subversive touch: Chunky golden punch-'em'-out rings worn on every finger.

Tisci joined the hoards of other Paris designers -- including Belgian wunderkind Kris Van Assche, who also showed on Friday -- in layering long, generously cut shorts over leggings and gladiator sandals.