From tropical heat to city chic

The pixie-ish Sam Mendoza sprinted a victory lap around the many tiers of the Liberty Hotel after his show Sept. 29 - and earned a standing ovation from his friends and admirers. It’s heartening to see how far Mendoza has come in such a short time. His fabric choices, while still unique, are far more wearable than the polyester fabric he once rescued from the back of his grandmother’s car. With a Goth soundtrack of the Cure and Siouxsie and the Banshees playing, Mendoza’s spring collection was filled with purples, grays, blues, and punches of chartreuse. This was evening wear for the party girl who likes some edge. (Hooded full-length cape, anyone?) While Mendoza has shown tremendous growth, it would also be nice to see him finish hemlines on his dresses. Too many times, loose threads floated behind his creations. He’s certainly talented enough to make pieces that appeal to his funky fan base while adding finer finishes to his creations.

Armenian designer Nirva Derbekyan went back to her roots to find inspiration for the stunning collection she showed Sept. 30 at the Elan Sassoon-owned salon Mizu, which provided a dramatic background for her lovely designs. According to the designer, the colors of her collection were inspired by shades of orange she saw on buildings and monasteries in her homeland, while ideas for the hand-knotted details came from a trip to a factory where rugs are still made by hand. “Some of the pieces reflect not objects, but my actual mood being there - both happiness and sadness,’’ she said after the show. Regardless of her mood, these dresses showed incredible craftsmanship, particularly a pale blue dress with a multitiered hemline and Grecian-inspired evening wear with exquisite draping. CM

It was fantastic to see Michael DePaulo play with younger designs and shorter skirts at his jam-packed show last Thursday at the Liberty Hotel (see photo, Page 35). The young South Shore designer has already mastered luxurious evening wear and wedding pieces, and he was ready to offer something more playful. Never afraid to offer drama and “Dynasty’’-era high glamour, DePaulo showed luxe fabrics, oversize hats, and mermaid silhouettes. Still, while he’s ambitious, DePaulo occasionally headed down the aisle into M.O.B. (that’s mother of the bride) territory with pieces that were too fussy and cluttered with bows and layers of pleated fabric. His choice of fabric colors was also sometimes jarring, but when he kept the designs simple and colors basic, his workmanship was able to shine. CM

There’s something ethereal about Mary McFadden’s collection of couture gowns at MassArt’s Sandra and David Bakalar Gallery (through Dec. 5). Drawing inspiration from Grecian and Egyptian cultures, McFadden takes on a dual role: historian and visionary. In addition to her textiles, McFadden’s incredible jewelry collection is also on display. Even more so than the dresses, the Mayan-inspired accessories have an ageless appeal. LUCY BARBER

Fashionistas swarmed the Park Plaza Castle Friday for Emerging Trends 2009, a gala featuring up-and-coming designers like Keith Lissner of Bravo’s “The Fashion Show.’’ Amid all the fancy trimmings, however, the show had a fatal flaw: There was simply too much going on - 14 designers is a lot, even in a castle. But there were outstanding collections. New York designer J’aime Lizotte, for instance, showed some striking architectural silhouettes, interestingly accented with leather and zippers. Caitlin Allen’s collection reworked country club chic, giving it an urban twist. And Lissner finished up the night with a collection mostly made up of draped goddess gowns and flirty frocks.

It was a near-perfect way to cap Boston’s spring-summer Fashion Week offerings - a trip to the tropics. Daniela Corte’s Seaport District runway show last Friday offered equal parts Tahitian getaway and fresh day looks for summer. Corte, best known for her flexible wrap dresses, showed separates such as glamorous wide-leg pants and well-made leggings. The beefcake offerings on the catwalk - otherwise known as men’s swimsuits - may have caught the crowd’s attention, but the showstoppers were her Asian-inspired red and black minidresses, a beige dress and jacket that could easily make the jump from day to evening, and a full-length, flowing summer dress in aquamarine that looked as if it had been created for a perfect night at a seaside restaurant in Baja. On a chilly October evening, it was a trip we were ready to take. CM