The sunset lip
Been shopping for makeup lately? Then you know that orange is the new red.
The most alluring runway makeup can fall flat in the real world, but spring’s most prevalent trend, Sunkist lips (not sun-kissed, but actual orange) has legs. While overly bright oranges can look lurid and creamy corals dated, there are new iterations, and ways of wearing them, that are fresh, modern, and fun.
Which of the new oranges to choose depends, makeup artists say, on the wearer’s age as much as what looks good with her skin tone. Dana Chasen of Beauty Muse Bridal, who has worked backstage at Vera Wang fashion shows and behind the scenes with dozens of Boston brides, says that the neon end of the orange spectrum looks best on the younger set. For women over 30, she uses richer shades with red undertones. For women in their 40s and older, Paula Tierney, owner of A Matter of Face in Boston’s North End, suggests looking for oranges with plenty of beige in them.
As for how to wear the color, Lauren Genatossio of Sarra, a makeup studio with locations in South Boston and Hingham, counsels conservatism overall. “Let your orange be the star,” she says. “Downplay the rest so that nothing will compete for attention.” Skin should be clean and fresh, with any hints of other colors kept to a minimum. Makeup artist Lauren Jollin, who works at AZ Studio in Hingham, says that a soft white shimmer on the lower eye lid looks great with orange lips. Similarly, Chasen uses a shimmery beige eye shadow, and might add a dusting of bronzer. The key, they agree, is to add brightness, not more color.
When applying any orange, from peach to tangerine, avoid lip liner, which looks dated. Rather than defined lips, you want a stain. Genatossio recommends dabbing on color with your fingertips. This creates a more subtle effect, she says, than the look you’ll get by applying directly from the tube, or even with a brush. If you’re still wary, she says, opt for an orange gloss worn on its own. But don’t add orange gloss to orange lipstick. “Not both,” she cautions. That’s too much sunshine for any smile.