SHERYL JULIAN/GLOBE STAFF

Serves 4

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This is the month when corn and tomatoes go into everything (though hopefully not into every dish in a single meal). You have to pack in sweet corn kernels and native tomatoes because the season is so short. Then along comes local striped bass — for many, the best fish in the sea — and yes, you can grill it, but roasting really suits the big white, firm flakes of a striper. Before you do, send a tray of tomato wedges tossed with olive oil into the oven along with another smaller dish of sweet bulby spring onions (they look like scallions with larger bulbs). When the tomatoes collapse, stir in fresh corn kernels and oregano, set the fish in the same dish, and return it to the oven. Fish takes longer to roast when it’s sitting on a bed of vegetables, but the tomatoes guarantee that the flaky flesh will not dry out. The dish looks and tastes like summer in New England.

6 large tomatoes, cored and cut into 8 wedges
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 spring onions or small white onions, trimmed and quartered
4 ears fresh corn, kernels removed from cobs
¼ cup chopped fresh
oregano
pounds boneless striped bass, cut into 4 pieces

1. Set the oven at 450 degrees. Have on hand a roasting pan and an 8-inch baking dish.

2. In the roasting pan, arrange the tomatoes cut sides up. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, and pepper. In the baking dish, arrange the onions in one layer. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

3. Roast the tomatoes for 25 minutes, the onions for 30 minutes.

4. Set the onions aside until serving. Add the corn to the tomatoes and with a large metal spoon, stir them together carefully. If some skins fall off the tomatoes, pull them off and discard. Sprinkle the mixture with 2 tablespoons of the oregano. Set the fish on the vegetables, skin side up. Rub the skin with oil, salt, and pepper.

5. Roast the fish for 20 minutes or until it is opaque and cooked through. On each of 4 plates, arrange fish, tomatoes, corn, and onions. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oregano.
Sheryl Julian