Yakitori Zai, 315 Shawmut Ave., Boston. 857-350-4450. www.yakitorizai.com
Many dishes make me thankful at this Japanese restaurant one might actually find in Japan. It specializes in skewers of chicken parts and more cooked over charcoal. But it seems fitting to conclude with dessert. At Yakitori Zai, that’s annin dofu. This isn’t tofu but a panna cotta-like custard, made with agar agar rather than gelatin. Wobbly, rich with cream, lightly almond flavored, it is a perfect, cooling end to a meal.