You can blow through a lot of cash here, too. On our first visit, midway into the meal, a cheerful young man stops by, rolling a cart of high-end liquors. “What would you like?” he asks, fully expecting us to buy a round on the spot. We decline. “Some shots?” he persists until it was clear we were fine with our caipirinhas, Brazil’s version of a margarita except made with sugar, limes, and cachaça. You can order 12 varieties here, but most of the flavored concoctions are too sweet. The traditional type will suffice fine.
When the bill tops $350 for four people (including tip and some drinks), you suddenly realize that Fogo de Chão is meant to be a special-occasion dining experience. Except it doesn’t feel that special. The dining room, at 12,000 square feet, has the look and ambience of a corporate banquet hall, right down to the earth tones, carpeting, muted music, and neutral lighting.
Then again, who has time to notice all that when the 10th skewer of meat arrives. Pace yourself.
James Reed can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.