That mixture of exotic and familiar carries through to a French crepe-wrapped guava and kiwi under a creme Anglaise. Beignets are made with millet flour and topped with fragrant orange blossom water. An unclassic tarte Tatin uses mangoes instead of apples, the fruits jammy with contrasting coconut and ginger cream dollops.

Perhaps the most surprising thing about Teranga is that it still feels undiscovered despite its excellence, affordability, and coverage of chef Mendy’s 2011 win on the Food Network’s “Chopped” competition. That’s a shame, but it’s working in your favor if need a last-minute plan for tomorrow night.

Better-known and worth considering for an even more affordable meal is Penang, the large Chinatown outpost of a chain of Malaysian restaurants (others are in New York and Harvard Square). Though no more expensive than other spots in the neighborhood, it looks more polished, with pleasant lighting and an inviting woody dining room. That doesn’t extend to the service, which is brusque but efficient. At Penang — as in Malaysia — gastronomy is a function of geography, with a menu set at the crossroads of Chinese, Thai, and Indian cooking.

Start with roti canai, a warm soft flat bread served with a bowl of deeply flavorful chicken curry stew for dipping. The dish is a staple of street stalls in Malaysia and Singapore and it’s a perfect introduction to the intersection of flavors to follow. The skewered beef and chicken satay, like many of the Thai dishes, are solid if not memorable, but the satay bean curd is delightful. Tofu is deep-fried, a crispy exterior giving way to a soft interior and the surprise of a fresh cucumber and bean sprout stuffing.

The vermicelli in the Singapore noodles are wok-tossed with vegetables and shrimp in a pungent coating of curry powder. With roots in Chinese cooking, the Hainanese chicken with rice is a whole or half-chicken steamed with soy sauce and rice wine. It’s both simple and luxurious. So is the whole striped bass steamed with a “special sauce,” aromatic with ginger and garlic.

Half the fun of the Buddhist yam pot is the presentation: bright corn, snow peas, black mushrooms, and shrimp in an edible bowl of fried taro. The soft starchiness of the taro contrasts nicely with the snap of the vegetables and the crunch of cashews that top the dish. When the bowl is gone, you’re done.

If Valentine’s Day means chocolate to you, consider ending the meal elsewhere. Here, the coconut pudding and bubor chacha, sweet potatoes and yams with coconut milk, make a satisfying conclusion.

More information:

TERANGA

1746 Washington St., South End, Boston, 617-266-0003, http://www.terangaboston.com

All major credit cards except American Express accepted.

Wheelchair accessible.

Hours Mon-Sat Llunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner 5 p.m.-1 a.m. (kitchen closes 10:30 p.m.);Sun brunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner 5-10 p.m.

Prices: Appetizers $6-$8.Entrees $14-$17.

What to order: Brochettes de crevettes, Michouicq, poisson braise, mango tarte Tatin.

PENANG

685 Washington St., Chinatown, Boston, 617-451-6373, http://www.penangusa.com/backup/archive082205/location_boston.html

All major credit cards except American Express accepted.

Wheelchair accessible.

Hours Mon-Thu 11:30 a.m-11:30 p.m.;, Fri 11:30 20 a.m.-midnight, 12 a.m.,; Sun 11:30 a.m-11:30 p.m.

Prices: Appetizers $3-$7. Entrees $8-$20 (some fish market prices).