Desserts are drawn from bistro classics, slightly transformed. Tangy yogurt panna cotta has candied kumquats on the side. A chocolate ganache is dark and intense, offset by tart blood-orange sorbet, and shockingly green candied fennel. The licorice-flavored vegetable is perhaps more interesting as an idea than on the dish. More traditional lemon pot de creme with sweet-tart huckleberries and crumbly shortbread is delicious, but best of all are beignets with milk jam (a.k.a. dulce de leche). Light, puffy, sweet, gooey, and a perfect finish.
We leave happy, full, eager to come back again. And why not? It’s in the neighborhood.
Dan Zedek can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.