Anthony’s East Side Deli only opened on April, but it feels like it’s been in the East Arlington neighborhood for a century. Locals tap on the display case, ordering cold cuts and cheeses (Boar’s Head is carried here), and inquiring, amid small talk, which fresh-made sides are best on that particular day.

But when an early-30s woman with a baby carrier asks about gluten-free options, the sepia-toned daydream takes on a very modern hue. Anthony’s recalls a bygone era in aesthetics only. The deli can meet the demands of today’s customers, thanks in part to the nearby gluten-free bakery. Owner Anthony Masci made an effort to root his shop in the past, while keeping it current. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.

Glenn Yoder can be reached at gyoder@globe.com.

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