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The brilliant thing about yogurt, as we discover in “The Yogurt Cookbook,” is that it’s not only ubiquitous, it’s also versatile -- and often invisible. In cuisines extending from Southern Europe through the Caucasus, the Middle East and South Asia, yogurt is a dairy default that does what cream, butter, sour cream, and farmer’s cheese do in other cultures. “The Yogurt Cookbook” explores yogurt cooked every which way, including making it yourself. Recipes open up great, yogurty vistas of food preparation, even though even one may have something a little wrong with it. The late author and restaurateur Arto Der Haroutunian, born in Syria and a resident of London, wrote a dozen volumes until his death in 1987. This book is a re-issue of an earlier cookbook, with new photography.