Given the retro allure of everything from horn-rimmed glasses to antique barware, it was only a matter of time before someone revived the once ubiquitous soda fountain. Enter Juliet Pries, who opened the Art Deco-accented Ice Cream Bar in San Francisco’s Cole Valley neighborhood in 2012. Since then, legions of ice cream fanatics have walked in and gone “googly-eyed,” as Pries calls it, deliberating between banana pudding and butterscotch, or sweet corn and basil. The main attraction here is the young man in a crisp white shirt, bowtie, and cap behind the marble counter, which is neatly lined with dozens of brown tinted dropper bottles of handmade bitters and tinctures. He does not get offended if you call him a jerk. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.
Liza Weisstuch can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.