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Basement taqueria rises to the occasion in Harvard Square

Clockwise (from top left): Diners in the basement space of Cancun Taqueria on Mass. Ave. in Cambridge; fajitas Cancun;  taquitos Cancun.
Clockwise (from top left): Diners in the basement space of Cancun Taqueria on Mass. Ave. in Cambridge; fajitas Cancun; taquitos Cancun. Jessica Rinaldi For The Boston Globe

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Cancun Taqueria is hidden from street view, the basement floor of a two-story row of shops in Harvard Square that include Zoe’s and Cafe Sushi. The space was once the pizzeria Lamole and one can’t help but wonder if its position below eye level affects foot traffic. Upstairs, Dolphin Seafood is packed on two occasions while Cancun doesn’t have a single table occupied. It’s noticeable in a restaurant that seats 60.

Jesus Sahagun, who opened in early September with his wife, Areli, and her brother, Felix Santana, says takeout and lunch have been strong, but he thinks there’s a reason for the slow dinner. “We’re applying for the liquor license through Cambridge,” he says. “We will get requests many times a day for alcohol.”

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