‘We’re in it because we love it.’

Credit: Essdras M Suarez/Globe Staff

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One diner was allergic to halogen lamps. Another demanded coffee from Dunkin’ Donuts. And then there was the fussy tot escorted by a waitress to a convenience store for a lollipop so his parents could dine in peace. The restaurant business is kinetically unpredictable, and Boston’s top servers wouldn’t have it any other way. “Honey, for me, coming to work is like going on a date. I put on lipstick, and I’m ready to perform. Let’s rock and roll!” says Maria Delvecchio, 46, a sassy presence at the North End’s Trattoria Il Panino. Ambitious servers will do anything to make the customer happy. As one veteran says, “A customer should never have to ask for anything.” Things they want just appear. Things they don’t like never come to the table.

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