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The new spot inside the Boston Hotel Buckminster, at the Kenmore Square corner where Brookline Avenue, Beacon Street, and Comm Ave. all meet, is appropriately trying to be many things to many people. Fenmore American Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, there’s music on weekends, the staff is genuinely friendly, not a single menu item shrieks molecular gastronomy or anything related to tortured plate presentations, and the room (very West Elm, light and inviting), has the advantage of large Old Boston windows. The Buckminster building was built in 1897.
Breakfast needs work (more on this later), but at dinner, chef Jose Rivera is thinking. A heaping plate of fish and chips ($15) is crunchy with morsels of moist flaky fish in a golden crust.