Spanish cavas effervesce at Taberna de Haro

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Deborah Hansen, chef-owner-sommelier of Taberna de Haro in Brookline, knows that some people need coaxing to try the Spanish bubbly, cava. That might be because a past experience with entry-level cava did little to impress them. Hansen wants to lure them back with better pours than they’ve tried. She’s not talking about what she calls “huge brands.” These, she says, “represent 90 percent of the cava market. But the other 10 percent, grower cavas, are like grower Champagnes.” The producers, located in Cataluna in Northeastern Spain, grow their own grapes and take an artisanal approach. Hansen, who opened her restaurant in 1998 and expanded seating capacity last year, offers nearly 20 top-tier cavas on her list of more than 300 Spanish wines.

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