Ribs made the same way for three generations

Geovanni Lambert (left), his mother, Leona Weeks, and cousin Jarrett Loatman. Top: their pulled pork sandwich.
Geovanni Lambert (left), his mother, Leona Weeks, and cousin Jarrett Loatman. Top: their pulled pork sandwich.Photos by Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff

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Marion and Maurice Hill opened their business, M&M Ribs BBQ, 32 years ago in a stationary trailer. Fifteen years later -- a decade ahead of the food truck craze -- the Hills moved their little catering business into a truck. There was no twitter, no food truck festivals, and the truck wasn’t even allowed to park on public streets. But word caught on. Two generations later, M&M is still turning out barbecue and Southern sides, just like grandma Marion used to make. Ribs, chicken, and brisket are grilled over direct heat of hardwood charcoal, and turned constantly. Current head of operations Geovanni Lambert, the grandson of Marion and Maurice, acknowledges that he runs into naysayers who tell him that it isn’t true barbecue without that low-and slow indirect cooking.

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