(George Rizer/Globe Staff)
You might think that baby back ribs are better suited for an afternoon of football than a holiday soiree. But after that first bite of sweet, tender, totally addictive rib, even the most elegant and sophisticated guest will want to gnaw the bone clean.
Baby back ribs are the top section of a pig's ribs. The rib cage runs from the back all around the midriff toward the belly. Baby backs are a section of the ribs that stem from the loin, which is a prized cut closest to the back. They are narrower, leaner, and a little more expensive than spare ribs, their fattier counterpart closer to the belly.
Because ribs are mostly bone, treat them the way you would any tough, bony cut (think oxtail and shank). Marinate the meat in a spice rub or sauce before cooking to help flavor it. Braising and barbecuing, which both require long cooking over low heat, are the best methods for melting the fats and tenderizing the meat. For that charred effect, which makes them so lip-smacking good, finish them with strong, direct heat, either grilling or broiling.
At the new South End spot Myers+Chang (617-542-5200), chef Alison Hearn is offering delicious tea-smoked spare ribs (below). First she braises them in chicken stock seasoned with star anise, soy sauce, and rock sugar. Then she smokes them over tea leaves, marinates them in a dark, thick soy, and then broils them to order.
This preparation is far easier. You have to be home for several hours while it cooks (wrap gifts, decorate cookies, clean the house!). Begin by simmering the ribs in soy sauce, chicken stock, crushed red pepper, ginger, rice vinegar, and Worcestershire. Boil the cooking liquid to reduce it to a glaze. Then just before your guests arrive, glaze the ribs, broil them until succulent, and arrange on a platter. Wet wipes optional. - JILL SANTOPIETRO
© Copyright 2007 Globe Newspaper Company.
