With the big celebration evening upon us, it's time to taste smoked salmon. For obvious reasons, we chose the Atlantic variety.
Smoked salmon begins with a liquid brine or dry cure of salt, sugar, and other spices. (If you stop the process here, you've made gravlax). Then for smoking, the salmon is put over wood chips, usually cold smoked at low temperatures that cure it without cooking it. Most packages labeled smoked Atlantic salmon contain farmed salmon. Trader Joe's,
Farming affects color. Farmed salmon has a dark orange color, wild a lighter pink tone. The color has to do with what the salmon are eating; farmed salmon are fed pellets that include fish meal and in some cases synthetic carotenoids (found naturally in the food of wild salmon), which makes the flesh darker. Some vendors freeze the salmon after it's been smoked, which doesn't affect either color or taste.
Nine people from eight countries tasted five brands of salmon and chased it with club soda. After the tasting, they were rewarded with bagels and a "schmear" (cream cheese) for the leftovers. One taster had worked for a Norwegian company that imported smoked salmon and even without the wrapping, spotted the brand she always buys, Trader Joe's. She thinks it's "good quality for a good price."
No clear winners emerged from this school of fish. There was a three-way tie: two best votes each for Trader Joe's, Spence & Co., and Lascco Premium. As it happened, more people chose Lascco as their least favorite, with comments like, "What did they do to this fish?"
Contrary to what it tastes like, there is no oil added to smoked salmon. Our resident expert explained that the longer salmon is smoked, the more its natural oils come out - but they're the good Omega-3 fatty acids that are in certain fish.
On a shopping expedition at Whole Foods Market one day, a server explained that the more expensive the brand of salmon, the better the fish has been trimmed. It's all the same fish. - DEBRA SAMUELS
DuckTrap Prize
Smoked Atlantic Salmon
DuckTrap River of Maine
$12.99 for 8 ounces
"Nicely veined, light in color and rich in flavor. Good balance between salt and fish," wrote one taster who chose this Maine brand a favorite. Some other comments: "Too salty with a heavy taste," "Clean cut pleasant pink color," "Nice thick pieces, the light color is not appealing." "It looks better than the others!" one said. Another: "Slightly too pale." Several said its "mild taste" is an asset and one dubbed it "easy for beginners."
Lascco Premium Fancy
Original Grade Atlantic Salmon
Alderwood Smoked
$15.99 for 1 pound
"Sickly and pale," said one, a comment echoed by several who chose this as their least favorite. "Rather mushy texture, salt was the dominant taste, poor smoked flavor." "Melts in your mouth - not a good thing." That taster thought it seemed like the most "natural" and decided it came from Whole Foods. (It didn't.) The brand has some additives on the ingredient list. "From the first look, I am not sure I want to eat this. It also smells strange." "Looks shredded, not appealing." Another person said it tastes like "smoked cardboard." Two chose it as a favorite and liked the "light texture, thin slices, and delicate feel."
Spence & Co. Classic
Smoked Salmon
$12.99 for 8 ounces
Most people liked the deep orange hue in this brand. "Nice and bright," "full color." One said, "too orange." Another associated "the darker color with being oilier than the others - in a good sense." "Nicely salted and a rich texture." One taster found it "richer in fat," another called it "too slippery and slimy." Two people chose it as their least favorite. "It has a fishy smell, too strong odor, something my kids would not touch." "More rubbery than others. Heavy flavor." Sometimes you wonder if everyone is on the same page. This comment after tasting the same salmon: "Good taste but not chewy enough. Lightly salted, richer but dry."
Trader Joe's
Atlantic Harvest Smoked Salmon
Farm Raised Salmon
$4.99 for 6 ounces
The cheapest brand of the group. Many commented on the appearance: "Color is appealing." Texture, said one, is "a bit stiff." Others: "Slightly mushy texture." "Melty." "Very fleshy, not very distinctive poignant taste." "It's a bit too smooth, you don't need to chew it." "This has a long salty aftertaste." "Nice mild flavor, a little tangy, delicious on an empty stomach." Finally: "Smooth, balanced, tasty, and fresh, easy to please, lightly smoked, and nice color."
Whole Foods Market Whole Catch
Atlantic Smoked Salmon
Scottish Style Cold Smoked
$12.99 for 8 ounces
Chosen best by two. "That looks really good. You can see the structure of the salmon flesh and it smells like a real salmon. You taste it after you finish eating it." "Looks appealing. Good balance between salt, chewiness, and aftertaste." Some liked the appearance but felt the taste didn't deliver. "Healthy vibrant looks and strong smell. But suddenly disappointing taste - too watery. There was a surprising gap between smell and taste." "Love the color and size. Slippery and oily." Others found the taste "salty and saturated, richer in fat, smoked longer."
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