How to get the most bubbly for your buck

The winning formula for a sparkling wine is a combination of stimulating acidity, a steady stream of bubbles, pleasingly natural flavors and aromas, and some local character. (Mark Wilson/Globe Staff)

Red, white, or pink; New World or Old, wine prices just keep on going up. Earlier this month, as we scanned the shelves for some tasty $12-and-under sparkling wines to toast the New Year, it became painfully apparent that price pressure is shrinking the category. Even at the low end, bubbles have never been so dear.

Sadly, a number of pop favorites we've enjoyed sipping in the very recent past have risen in price and no longer qualify as plonk. It's a shame, really, because, at our house we really like to be able to crack open something bubbly for almost no reason at all. We love it as an aperitif, and are convinced that the most ordinary weeknight takes on a festive cast when the tall, narrow stems - known as flutes - come out of the cabinet.

Adding a bit of sparkle to your cellar may have become more difficult, but good choices remain. The winning formula in our book is a combination of stimulating acidity, a good steady stream of upwardly mobile bubbles, pleasingly natural flavors and aromas, and - as always - something of that local character that makes each distinctive.

Among the wines we sampled were quite a few that couldn't meet this standard, the most frequent fault being off-flavors and aromas that seemed - for want of a better term - industrial. With others, it was the feeling that while one glass might be pleasant enough, a second just didn't seem appealing. If there's one characteristic all well-made wine has in common, it is that it ever begs the next sip. Sparkling wine should be almost endlessly appetizing.

We hold rigorously to the rule that all plonk wines are $12 or less at standard retail markup. That means we don't talk about wines that might be the subject of a special markdown at your local wine merchant. The secret of instantly turning any $15 wine into plonk? Shedding the habit of buying one or two bottles at a time. Buy it by the case and take a hefty discount.

In these bubblies, NV stands for non-vintaged and means that the wine is the product of several years' harvests.

Dom Bertiol Prosecco di Conegliano NV.
Very pleasing citrus and floral aromas; fruit is high-toned and tangerine-ish with lively acidity and a super clean finish; slightly candied; nicely vivacious froth. About $12. At Marty's Fine Wines, Newton, 617-332-1230; Bradley Liquors, Boston, 617-536-3407; Edgemere Discount Wine & Spirits, Shrewsbury, 508-752-3600.

Rotari "Talento" Trento NV.
Aromas are quite modest, but fullish and fruity on the palate with a minor but distinct mineral garnish. About $10. At Golden Goose Market, North End, 617-367-3198; Yankee Spirits, Attleboro, 508-399-5860; Spirit Haus, Amherst, 413-253-5384.

Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva NV.
Distinctive cava-ish aromas; very crisp, dry, and firm with some appealing earthy elements. A steady, versatile performer. About $10. At Lukes Liquors, Rockland, 781-878-0226; Wine and Cheese Cask, Somerville, 617-623-8656; Colonial Spirits, Acton, 978-263-7775.

Segura Viudas "Aria" Cava NV.
Same producer as Segura Viudas Cava, just a tiny bit sweeter and higher-toned sip; bright, sustained apple-pear fruit; fine, firm acidity, and good cava character. About $10. At Cambridge Wine & Spirits 617-864-7171; Macy's Wine & Spirits, West Roxbury, 617-325-9200; Blanchard Liquor, Allston, 617-782-5588.

Michel Olivier Cremant de Limoux Blanc de Blancs 2003.
And now for something completely different: The aromas seem to play in a much lower register with mineral and earthy notes predominating; more flavor and character here than you expect. The question will be whether you like it. Our tasting pal, the professor, didn't. But we did. About $12. At Nine East Wine Emporium, Natick, 508-653-6221; Marty's Newton.

STEPHEN MEUSE

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.