 |
(Food styling/karoline boehm goodnick; Essdras m suarez/globe staff) |
After holiday excess, you probably find yourself hankering for good, fresh greens. For some, that might mean reaching for packaged bags of baby spinach and mesclun greens. But there are greens in season right now. Winter greens - robust, leafy vegetables that grow well in cold temperatures - are not as well known. Yet, they crowd the produce bins and provide a great opportunity to liven up stewy fare.
Winter greens are typically boiled or braised, as they require long cooking to soften the tough leaves. They're good as a side dish right from the cooking liquid with a drizzle of oil, but even better boiled first, then sauteed with garlic. There are many to choose from.
Kale is one of the hardiest greens, and many gardeners believe that it's actually sweeter and tastier after a frost. According to Eliot Coleman in "Four-Season Harvest," kale can remain in the ground all winter, even without insulation, in all but the most extreme climates. In my own garden, I often harvest kale well into the cold months. It's a treat to dig into a blanket of snow and retrieve fresh greens in January.
Other greens to look for are collards and Swiss chard. Like kale, collard leaves are thickly veined and very substantial, allowing them to hold up in inclement weather. Swiss chard is a bit more delicate, with white, yellow, or bright red stems and tender green leaves. It's not as hardy as kale or collards, yet it does surprisingly well in cold temperatures. Mustard greens and turnip greens are also options.
The combination of greens, cannellini beans, and tomatoes is a classic Tuscan specialty. Swiss chard is a good choice for the dish, though other leaves would work. Winter greens are delicious in soup, too. Bowls of hearty kale, white beans, and sausage will make the kitchen cozy on a blustery day.
© Copyright 2008 Globe Newspaper Company.
