Carl Fantasia, owner of the New Deal in Cambridge, holds up some local cod. Dried and salted or fresh, the fish makes a flavorful meal any time of year.
(Wendy Maeda/Globe Staff)
Family Table
During the winter, my Sicilian grandfather made a fish stew using the dried salted cod he knew as baccala. This involved soaking the fish in water - which needed to be changed daily - for three days.
Making the dish was tedious. First, my grandfather cooked the fish until it broke apart. Then he simmered large chunks of potato until they were tender, at which point he blended them with herbs. The family had to withstand the strong fish odor that lingered in the house, but my father was intrigued by the whole process.
My version of the fish stew uses fresh boneless cod simmered in a tomato and red wine broth. Chunks of potatoes help to give the stew some heft, while green olives, onions, and fresh herbs add depth.
With this stew, my grandfather would serve a simple salad of bitter greens tossed with lemon and a drizzle of olive oil. This version includes mild oniony shallots and shaved Parmesan for its nutty taste.
The meal begs for a loaf of crusty Italian bread. My grandfather wouldn't sit down without one. Neither would I. - CHRISTINE MERLO
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