Lemon salad

(Insalata di limoni)

Serves 4

In some parts of the world, lemons don't have the same pucker that ours do. That is, unless you find Meyer lemons, which are juicier, sweeter, and a more intensely yellow than the ordinary variety. If you're looking for a little sunshine to bring to the table, this tangy Sicilian salad, in which lemon pieces are tossed with olive oil and salad greens, might drive away the end of winter. It comes from "Seasons of Sicily: Recipes From the South of Italy," by Natalia Ravidà, who brings you into her family's olive farm and 18th century villa, where they still live, season by season.

Sicilian winters are mild, and there is always something blooming. But the region still gets cold and dreary. This robust salad, which contains no vinegar (the juicy lemons add enough acid), Meyer lemons, and hearty romaine and radicchio lettuces, lets the yellow fruit shine through. As the daylight slowly gets longer, and the end of winter is closer, a bright spot on the table is especially welcome.

2	Meyer lemons
1	cup water
1/2	teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/4	cup olive oil
8	romaine lettuce leaves, torn into pieces
1/2	radicchio, thinly sliced
1	scallion, thinly sliced
	Pepper, to taste

1. With a serrated knife, remove the rind from the lemons, taking the bitter white pith with it. Cut across the lemons into 1/4-inch slices.

2. In a bowl, combine the water and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Add the lemon slices; set aside for 10 minutes. Drain the slices and discard the water. Cut each slice into 4 pieces.

3. In a small bowl, mix the lemon pieces and olive oil.

4. In a serving bowl, toss the romaine and radicchio lettuces. Add the lemon and oil mixture and toss gently again. Sprinkle the mixture with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt, scallions, and pepper. Debra Samuels