Hearty flavors keep you warm and fortified

(pat greenhouse/globe staff)

Winter is on the wane now, but at our house we remain embedded in a seasonal cocoon of pressure-cooker meals, crackling fires, and - come bedtime - a taste of dark chocolate and mint tea. Though inclined to sip something white or even sparkling while stirring a pot or dressing a salad, when the time comes to pull a chair up to the table we want some generous, full-flavored red in our glass.

In antiquity, physicians touted red wine as an important source of nutrition, especially for those engaged in hard, manual labor. Its color suggested an atavistic affinity with the blood and marked it as a source of strength and endurance. We don't really think of wine as a meaningful source of nutrition anymore, but current research suggests that red wine with its extra load of resveratrol and phenols may have a beneficial effect on the vascular system. Then there's that undeniable feeling of being somehow fortified.

Does that mean Hippocrates had it right? It's something to ponder while helping yourself to that last creamy morsel of Roquefort.

We can't guarantee that any of the wines that follow will give you the cardiac capacity of a Tour de France cyclist or the deltoids of a Mr. (or even Miss) Universe, but you have our word that - after accounting for personal taste - every one will do nicely as an accompaniment to whatever you're putting on the table tonight, whether it comes from your own stove or a take-out carton. - STEPHEN MEUSE

Chateau de Pennautier Cabardes 2005. Disqualified from last year's Plonkapalooza because the bottle was corked, a second try revealed a nicely balanced bundle of ripe red fruits, soil flavors, and good lively acidity. Versatile, easy-to-drink, easy-to-like sip. Around $10. At Harkey's Wine and Spirits, Millis, 508-376-8833; Post Road Liquors, Wayland, 508-358-4300; Auburndale Wine & Spirits, Auburndale, 617-244-2772.

Rocca Bella Puglia Negroamaro 2006. Very forward black cherry-tinged aromas; fairly hefty but a with texture that's distinctly softer than others in the group. Around $10. At Lower Falls Wine, Newton, 617-332-3000; University Wine Shop, Cambridge, 617-547-4258; Cardoza's Wine & Spirits, Fairhaven, 508-992-4477.

Alberello Rosso IGT Salento 2002. A surprisingly brawny little wine; good steady ripe fruit; some intriguing animal notes; a mouthful of rustic charm. Around $10. At Fruit Center Marketplace, Milton, 617-696-5274; Martignetti Liquors, Brighton, 617-782-3700; Harkey's.

Almahue Rapel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Some big, ripe, sweet fruit here; fleshy, juicy, and aromatic; some roasted and gamy notes. Around $10. At Solera, Roslindale, 617-469-4005; Empire Wine & Spirits, Kingston, 781-422-9999; Harkey's.

Nugan Estate South Eastern Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. A shapely wine with cabernet cut, busy acidity, and persistent fruit. Around $12. At West Package & Variety, North Adams, 413-663-6081; Wine Emporium, South End, 617-262-0379; Spirited Gourmet, Winchester, 781-721-9463.

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.